Worksharp Ken Onion Impressions and Discussion

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Aug 3, 2009
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I wanted something to speed up my sharpening and repair of very dull blades, but I also wanted something portable and perhaps a bit safer (for blades) than a 1x30 belt sander. The WSKO seemed like it might be just what I was looking for, so I ordered one last week.

It's just about everything I could have asked for. I'm using the tool in a way that the manufacturer probably didn't intend; namely just like you'd use a bench belt grinder. I don't use the guide at all and face the belt towards me, with the belt motion going downward. I sharpen knives with the edge down and thus the belt moving away from the edge. I do one side with the knife handle in my right hand and the other side with the knife handle in my left hand.

I was a little concerned about finding and holding the edge angle. It turns out that's no problem on either front. It's rather easy to find the angle and holding it is very easy. I was also thinking that the low grit belts might take off steel very quickly and allow me to make mistakes quickly. This is where the story gets more interesting.

The variable speed allows you to really regulate the grinding speed, and it varies more than the specs might make you think. Because I'm using the sander in the way I am, I have to use the trigger lock. What's interesting is, the trigger lock doesn't press the trigger all the way in. So, on it's highest speed, the difference between the trigger pressed all the way and where the lock puts it, is just about zero. The motor doesn't slow down enough to hear it and it's QUITE fast. But on the other end of the scale, at the lowest speed setting, the difference between full trigger and where the lock holds it is significant. I'd say it's running roughly half of the advertised speed with the trigger locked on the lowest setting.

There are 14 or 15 total speed settings. I'm usually using speeds 3 - 8. The higher speeds grind much faster I'm sure, but I haven't graduated to those just yet. Plus there's a big intangible with the speed: Up to speed 5 or so, the machine is surprisingly quiet. You can literally have a conversation while using it to sharpen a knife and hear every word spoken without issue. At speed 7 or 8, it starts to get a bit loud. Above that and up to speed 14 it's loud enough to be a little annoying. Not a big deal, but quieter is better for me.

I think I've done 16 knives in the past 2 days. It's taking an average of around 15 minutes per knife, though some take more and some less. Almost every one of these knives was very, very, VERY dull. Blades that have literally been sitting unused for years because they are so dull they aren't effective in the kitchen. One of these had a broken tip leaving a 1/4" wide "tip" behind. That blade took me around 10 minutes to completely reform the tip. The tip got warm to the touch, but never above maybe 105 degrees (F). Just guessing at the temp, but certainly nothing that hurt my fingers or made me think it was hot enough to affect the heat treat.

I got every knife sharp to very sharp. All sliced phonebook paper. Some less cleanly than others. Almost every knife shaved hair. All at least cut a hair or two. I was doing these as a favor, and as a learning tool for myself, but I wasn't going to spend enormous amounts of time on this motley collection of abused, beaten, bent and SO DULL blades. So I opted for "sharp as hell for the average person" as opposed to something that would really impress me. I was still pretty happy with 9 out of 10 of the blades when I was done.

I should mention that the speed difference between this, and even DMT Diasharp 8 x 3 plates is enormous. In the past these beat up knives I've gotten to work on have taken me literally 45 minutes or more to fix. Some needed even more time. Doing a "really bad" one in 20 minutes is a revelation for me. ...and that's with only 2 days of practice *and* me using the machine at 1/2 speed or less most of the time!

Another point worth making is about knife tips. I've read many times about how easy it is to round over tips with this machine and how to avoid it. Because I'm not using the guides, I use two hands to control to blade and I do it very much like when I freehand on stones, stopping the blade motion when I'm at the *very* tip. Doing this has resulted in tips that are much sharper than when I started. I've had no problems at all with rounded tips. Just the opposite. I've reformed one tip completely and made many more much sharper than when they started. :)

I'm only having a few difficulties so far. Removing the burr, after raising it on both sides, seems difficult when using the same grit. For example, if I raise a burr on both sides with the 120 grit belt and then try to take it off with the 120, it's just about impossible. Sure I can remove it from one side, but it reforms on the other side instantly. Even with very light pressure, I'm still reforming the burr every time. If I run through the grits, I can usually eliminate almost all of the burr with the X4 (3000 grit) belt. It's still not as clean as I like it, but I can get it serviceable with a minute or two of effort.

I've got several other people bringing me boxes of blades to sharpen; I'm going to be busy. So far, I'm pretty thrilled with this tool. Maybe some of the details I've shared here will help someone else out in some way. Thanks for reading.

Brian.
 
I have only used mine a few times. I also use it without the guards. I go edge straight down with the belt going away (I rotate the machine for each side of the blade). That makes it about as easy as the Sharpmaker. It's easy to raise the handle to follow the tip area and stop before the point goes across the belt. It also makes the Wicked Edge and Edge Pro feel like sharpening in slow motion! Like you, I use slower speeds.

Although the level of sharpness that I have achieved so far is probably below some other methods, it is still very sharp. With a bit more practice, who knows? I have noticed this important part: the edges seem to be lasting longer. I'm curious if others are experiencing this?

Good topic; I hope others will join in.

Good sharpening,
David
 
I have only used mine a few times. I also use it without the guards. I go edge straight down with the belt going away (I rotate the machine for each side of the blade). That makes it about as easy as the Sharpmaker. It's easy to raise the handle to follow the tip area and stop before the point goes across the belt. It also makes the Wicked Edge and Edge Pro feel like sharpening in slow motion! Like you, I use slower speeds.

Although the level of sharpness that I have achieved so far is probably below some other methods, it is still very sharp. With a bit more practice, who knows? I have noticed this important part: the edges seem to be lasting longer. I'm curious if others are experiencing this?

Good topic; I hope others will join in.

Good sharpening,
David

I haven't used the knives I've sharpened on mine for long enough yet to make a statement one way or the other about longevity. Work Sharp's info states that, due to the flex of the belts, some convexing does occur and that might account for at least part of your experience.

- Tim
 
I picked up a worksharp a couple weeks ago and I have been quite impressed. I'm still a bit hesitant to use my nicer knives on it though. One issue I have been having is with my sebenza I marked the edge with a sharpie and using the guide I found it is at about 20° but when I sharpen it on the edge with the thumb lug, the thumb lug touches the belt. Now I have a spot that is ground down on the thumb lung and it kind of bugs me. That happens to other knives as well unless I go down to at least 25°. Has anyone else had that problem?
 
Brian,

As an aspiring sharpener, I have always enjoyed your posts on the subject as they are consistently clear, well-written, and helpful. Your post here on the Work Sharp KO is no exception. I am a big fan of this tool and am glad you are enjoying yours.

There are a lot of different methods on how to position and use the WS, and I am interested to see you using yours in the belt grinder fashion. Are you mounting it to something when using it this way? Also, when you say you are stopping the blade at the *very* tip, at what point on the belt are you stopping it?

I have likewise found that probably the greatest feature of the KO model is the variable speed. By slowing it down to a low or even medium speed, you can really take it more slowly, check your progress, and see where you're going before you've made any significant mistakes. Well done, Work Sharp.

Andrew
 
Thank you for the kind words; it's nice to know that someone gets something out of what I write here. :)

There are a lot of different methods on how to position and use the WS, and I am interested to see you using yours in the belt grinder fashion. Are you mounting it to something when using it this way?

I can try to get a picture or video if you need a visual. My setup is a little strange, but if you follow along I think you'll see why I did it this way. The tool has rubber feet on it that are supposed to hold it in place. I tried it this way and the combination of motor vibration/torque and slight pressure on the belt caused it to "walk" in a circular motion. So I got some shelf liner, the kind that's rubberized dots all joined together, and put that under the machine. That nailed it in place very nicely. But after a couple of sharpening sessions, I noticed that, even though I had put down a paper towel to catch the ground off metal, it was everywhere on the table or counter I was using. So on to the next setup.

I have a cookie sheet I use when I sharpen with waterstones, to catch the water than pours off or through them. I put this under the WorkSharp, but it's metal so it slips all over a flat surface, so.... The final sandwich is: Countertop with a sheet of shelf liner on top. Cookie sheet on top of shelf liner. Smaller piece of shelf liner on top of the cookie sheet, about 6 inches back from the edge. WorkSharp on top of the final piece of shelf liner. It sounds kind of intricate or something, but it's really simple and takes seconds to set up. The whole thing stays in place VERY solidly. When I'm done I just wipe down the machine to get excess metal filings off of it, then take the cookie sheet to a sink and rinse all the accumulated metal off of it, leaving it clean for next time.

Also, when you say you are stopping the blade at the *very* tip, at what point on the belt are you stopping it?

There are a couple of keys here. The first key is to not slide off of the belt. This is just like using a bench stone in that you don't want the point of the tip to contact the abrasive, as it will round it off. "Sweeping" off of the stone is why a lot of people don't get sharp points. The moving belt exaggerates that effect greatly. As long as you stop *on* the belt, the exact location isn't important.

Another part of this is changing your angle of approach, by lifting the handle of the knife, as you go through the curved portion of the blade. As you get to the tip, the change in angle, compared to where you were in the flat section of the blade, is very different.

The final part of this is making sure that, at the *very* end of the stroke, the tip is actually touching the abrasive. Again, this is the same as using a bench stone and it's important if you're going to make the tip sharp. Try doing a practice stroke with the machine off and stop when you're at the place where you want to lift the blade off of the belt. Is the very tip touching the belt? If so, you've got it. If not, change your angle (it's an angle in two dimensions actually) until the tip touches. I've found that, on most blades, the tip is sort of blunt to start with and unless you make sure to do this "tip touching" technique on every stroke, you'll end up with a tip that's as blunt as when you started.

I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't, ask and I'll try to clarify.

Thanks,

Brian.
 
Brian, thanks for explaining your mounting process---very creative.

As for the tips, yes, it is important to raise the handle on a curved blade so as to keep the edge "square" on (perpendicular to) the belt. And as you point out, there is a second movement---pulling the handle out a bit as you reach the tip since the blade is thinner at the spine there and you have to compensate for that in order to keep that section of the edge on the belt. Whew---this stuff is hard to explain in words!

Andrew
 
Thank you for the great write up! I told my better half this is what I want for Christmas this year so I'm trying to learn everything I can before that day gets here. I'm really excited about this sharpener and hope I can figure out all the little tricks to getting a nice sharp knife. I've been collecting super dull blades from Goodwill that are nice carbon USA made but need some TLC to practice on. That way I wont feel to bad if I destroy them because they were so cheap but when I get them sharp they will be good keepers to have around. :)
 
Hey y'all. New blood here..Retired military..71 years young and have never been able to sharpen a knife or any cutting edge to my satisfaction..I have a Ken Onion sharpener on the way so was glad to see the review and follow up comments. I haven't seen any comments about using a steel to remove the burr for final sharpening. I using a steel a no no?

Also have already found a good and very reasonable source for 3/4 X 12 replacement belts. Much less than I see them go for. I saw one write up that said it used 1X12 in belts but that must have been a typo.
 
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I haven't seen any comments about using a steel to remove the burr for final sharpening. I using a steel a no no?

Generally speaking, a steel isn't abrasive enough to remove much metal. It burnishes the metal, kinda pushing it around like it was made out of clay. So I'd expect a steel to stand a burr up, as opposed to removing it. If the steel had some abrasive quality to it, like a diamond or ceramic steel, it might be good to deburr with. Maybe someone who has tried this will respond. I might just try using one of my ceramic rods to deburr from the WS and see what happens. :)

Also have already found a good and very reasonable source for 3/4 X 12 replacement belts. Much less than I see them go for. I saw one write up that said it used 1X12 in belts but that must have been a typo.

I'd be interested to hear about alternative sources of 3/4 x 12" belts. So far I've only seen the ones from WS and from MicroMesh.

Thanks,

Brian.
 
I bought an assortment on Ebay. 25 for $40. Free shipping. Five of each grit. 180-3000. I would give their web site but might be frowned on. I can PM it to you.
 
Moe1942, can you pm me that link? I love my KO worksharp. I primarily use it on my kitchen knives for now. I'm not confident in my skills enough to do my high end knives. Great tool tho, especially for quick touch ups.
 
Moe1942, can you pm me that link? I love my KO worksharp. I primarily use it on my kitchen knives for now. I'm not confident in my skills enough to do my high end knives. Great tool tho, especially for quick touch ups.

Will do when I go to the workshop..but I like the prices I see at micromesh..Didn't get to shipping costs though. The frau asked me what I want for Christmas..maybe you can help me with the a list of most used grits. Mostly kitchen and pocket knives. I have bunch of both..
 
I would really appreciate a list of most useful grit belts . I have never used anything but a stone sharpen my knives. I better practice on some low end knives when I get my KO..
 
moe, the KO will come with 5 belts and will do a good job for you as is (the coarsest one, the P120, you probably will only need for tools or knives that are damaged). If you want to fill in some gaps, though, I would suggest one grit between the X65 and X22 and one between the X22 and the X4. With the selection you got on ebay, you should be able to do that.

The hardest thing is that "grit size" is measured in so many different ways. But Komitadjie has a great tool here (see post #46 for the latest version): http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/856708-The-Grand-Unified-Grit-Chart/page3

Andrew
 
moe, the KO will come with 5 belts and will do a good job for you as is (the coarsest one, the P120, you probably will only need for tools or knives that are damaged). If you want to fill in some gaps, though, I would suggest one grit between the X65 and X22 and one between the X22 and the X4. With the selection you got on ebay, you should be able to do that.

The hardest thing is that "grit size" is measured in so many different ways. But Komitadjie has a great tool here (see post #46 for the latest version): http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/856708-The-Grand-Unified-Grit-Chart/page3

Andrew




Thanks..never realized there was so much to sharpening.
 
Got my WSKO today. Practiced on a few cheap knives to get the hang of things. Got shaving sharp edges on 5 knives in about 1.5 hours.
I even reprofiled a broken tip with no trouble.
I am really impressed with the ease and speed of the system.
I am going to have to warn the wife when I get to her kitchen knives.
 
Bgentry, if you could upload a video, that would be perfect. I'd really like to see this sharpener in action. Thank you for taking the time.

As a current wicked edge owner, I'm also thinking about purchasing the work sharp. I really don't like spending an hour sharpening a knife, not to mention that I've stumbled onto the wicked edge limitations, which I'm not too happy about, given the price of the system.
 
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