Would You Tell Me What is So Special About Chris Reeves Knives?

Also, Chris invented the frame lock.
Since the frame lock and liner lock are functionally exactly the same did Chris really invent anything? Not really but he did put the frame lock into use first from all accounts. Case has a liner lock from the 50's I believe.
 
Fit and finish. Customer service. Full options of lefty knives in every model and configuration. American made. And I have an affinity for collecting special bitthdates. They have a slim profile in the pocket, and never once have failed to do what I asked of them. I own more CRK folders than any other brand. These days I always have a small 21 in my pocket as secondary. And 6 days a week I have a large Sebenza or Inkosi as my primary. One day a week I'll throw my Grimsmo Norseman in the pocket alongside the Sebenza. Spyderco, ZT, and the like still have a place in the collection but they just don't get carried anymore. I have a lefty Hinderer XM-18 that's ok, but takes a lot more space in the pocket, but doesn't do anything for me as well or better than a CRK. While my Norseman may be slicier, and fidgetier, it's not as capable of something harder in use in my estimation. I just really love the CRKs.
 
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Since the frame lock and liner lock are functionally exactly the same did Chris really invent anything? Not really but he did put the frame lock into use first from all accounts. Case has a liner lock from the 50's I believe.

Walker liner lock -> Reeve Integral Lock -> RIL + Hinderer LBS are certainly derived from each other, but all have distinct "add-on" innovations. For example, for the RIL, the lock cutout to calibrate the lock strength is new.
 
Porsches and Ferraris are among the most expensive vehicles to maintain.

......Probably not a good comparison.
Most Porsches will run for years on regular (but somewhat expensive) maintenance if you fix some basic issues like the IMS bearing.

A Ferrari needs a lot more love. Like $10k timing belt replacements when the Porsche is on its 5th oil change. I am sure Ferrari has improved some since I had to wrench on one but they have always been much more expensive to own and maintain than a Porsche.
 
Please lets drop this line of discussion on pronunciation of Zulu words. . . .I was kidding around.
 
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In the world we now live in with high end cnc machines, 3d printers and everything imaginable at your fingertips it is nice to see a good old USA made product that is of high precision, fit and finish while being built with all the great materials available today. Having said that, there are great knives being made today all over the world with all the latest greatest steels, parts and designs that are very high quality, have very good tolerances and will likely last to hand down to your children if one were of a mind to. Everyone gets to have their opinion, buy, carry and use what they want. My opinion (because the original poster asked) is that I’m really surprised that they sell as many of these as fast as they can make em. I have a small Sebenza 31. It is ALL that I stated above but if I picked it up on a table of knives for sale and felt the opening action, I would put it back and pass it up at most any price. The thumb stud one hand opening is probably the worst I have ever encountered. Getting it started from full close ( off the detent I suppose) is terrible. After cleaning, lubing and smoothing the washers, it is butter with the lock bar fully disengaged but getting it going is unacceptable action. Yes, I’ve watched the videos on “how to“ as well as read the clowns comments who say to toughen up your thumbs. It’s a shame really. It’s a beautiful piece. One should not have to learn a specific opening ritual to enjoy these knives. More comfortable thumb studs would be a huge step in the right direction. I have seen it written many times, you either like em or you don’t. I like a lot about them but that one issue is a deal breaker. Too many really good knives out there in this price range to make a concession like that. Final thought: I would not buy another one.
 
Keep in mind the original design of the Sebenza was a purpose built tool. It was not designed simply as a pocketknife

Work on an oil rig? Or ship? Anywhere near saltwater or mud? Arctic temperatures or the desert? The Sebenza has you covered.

The Sebenza was designed to go places most knives cannot. Designed to be disassembled, cleaned & sharpened overnight, and start again the next day. AND….spare parts available.

Try that with a linerlock or a pivot with bearings.
 
Keep in mind the original design of the Sebenza was a purpose built tool. It was not designed simply as a pocketknife

Work on an oil rig? Or ship? Anywhere near saltwater or mud? Arctic temperatures or the desert? The Sebenza has you covered.

The Sebenza was designed to go places most knives cannot. Designed to be disassembled, cleaned & sharpened overnight, and start again the next day. AND….spare parts available.

Try that with a linerlock or a pivot with bearings.

I don't doubt the Sebenza being tough, robust, etc. They are certainly at one end of the spectrum for folders. However, the ultimate difference between this and a decently made linerlock or knife that runs on bearings might not be so dramatic.

I take apart every knife that I can. I tinker with some of them. I also maintain knives for others. There is definitely a spectrum and different knives fall on different parts of that spectrum regardless of those features. Might bearings be a little less durable or liner locks be a little less strong in general? Maybe a little but not necessarily in ways that will have a significant effect on how lots of us actually use our knives. There was a good recent discussion here on washers versus bearings. Some interesting things came up. For instance, how likely it is for some types of particulates to get into caged bearings versus washers; versus how easy it is to quickly clear one out and get it back up and running versus the other? Can it be fixed in two seconds with a can of Dustoff? How do some types of caged bearings stack up against others? At the end of the day, some of it boils down to particulars but it matters a lot less often for lots of us.

In weighing situational particulars to evaluate action, it might be worth considering a parallel dead end in the lock debate. In the actual strength difference between Lock Type A versus Lock Type B, what activities are we doing wherein the failure point actually ends up between those values? Pro-tip: none of those activities are the right job for a folder.
 
Work on an oil rig? Or ship? Anywhere near saltwater or mud? Arctic temperatures or the desert? The Sebenza has you covered.
Yes to all but the Arctic. A metal handled folder is kinda a bad idea for all of that. Burned my palms and lost a solid grip too many times from temp extremes and grease/oil when there were no gloves or they got ruined. I will say the summer in Kandahar is actually preferable to that on an osv in the GoM. It's a dry heat, lol.
 
Keep in mind the original design of the Sebenza was a purpose built tool. It was not designed simply as a pocketknife

Work on an oil rig? Or ship? Anywhere near saltwater or mud? Arctic temperatures or the desert? The Sebenza has you covered.

The Sebenza was designed to go places most knives cannot. Designed to be disassembled, cleaned & sharpened overnight, and start again the next day. AND….spare parts available.

Try that with a linerlock or a pivot with bearings.
I have heard that said before but it doesnt necessarily make sense. I have worked on equipment and cars as well as done a bunch of other things where you use a knife in a rough, dirty environment. I can’t remember ever disassembling a knife to clean it. I have washed them, run them through the dishwasher, sprayed them out with brake cleaner or WD40 but never torn them down completely.

I love my Inkosi but let’s not pretend it does anything a Griptilian or CS Code 4 won’t. I would also not risk a $500 knife working on an oil rig or the bilge of a ship, for example.
 
I had the same experience as in the original post. I purchased a Umnumzaan Startac directly from Wilson Combat. It was a nice knife but found it to be a bit boring and difficult to open. I traded it away. Maybe I should give a Sebenza a shot..
 
Really sturdy workhorse of a knife, can be beat and still function well.

Relied on and trusted by many, with a loyal following. Not the fanciest but ready to do the job.

Ford F-150 of knives
 
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I never really get these threads. It gives me the impression that people need their intelligence justified because they "don't need a $500 knife to cut stuff". Good on ya if that's the case. Personally, I wouldn't use any WE knife ever made, even if was free. That said, I'm not going to put people out by questioning why they like 'em.

I love my CRK's and I'm not concerned with anyone's opinion on it. I'm waiting for a small wood inlay to pop up so I can buy another.

If you don't like it, don't buy it. Seems like a pretty simple idea to me....
 
I have heard that said before but it doesnt necessarily make sense. I have worked on equipment and cars as well as done a bunch of other things where you use a knife in a rough, dirty environment. I can’t remember ever disassembling a knife to clean it. I have washed them, run them through the dishwasher, sprayed them out with brake cleaner or WD40 but never torn them down completely.

Me, neither. If I get a knife that filthy, I have dropped it into a bucket of cleaner, paint, or something else as a mistake. I routinely clean my knives to remove commercial adhesives or sealers, unknown sticky stuff, tar, etc. using lacquer thinner, mineral spirits or charcoal lighter fluid. I had never heard of or known the terms of "routine maintenance" "routine cleaning and adjustment" until I joined BF. My knives get the dirtiest when I cannot get to the preferred tool for the task. That being said, they still get pretty messed up sometimes.
I love my Inkosi but let’s not pretend it does anything a Griptilian or CS Code 4 won’t. I would also not risk a $500 knife working on an oil rig or the bilge of a ship, for example.
With 50 years active in the trades myself, I have never seen anything more pricey than a Benchmade out on the job. Too many things happen to "tools" when you routinely use them on a job site or probably any other strenuous work where cutting instruments are involved. Hand tools get misplaced even if it is you yourself that does it. My CASE stockman has been left next to the miter saw many a time, not missed until I need again when fitting another piece of trim. I have had different knives slide off a high slope 2 story roof when I was more worried about my balance than my knife. I have seen my CS American Lawman rattle across a sidewalk when the guy I lent it to dropped it off a third tier of scaffolding (a small dent in the G10, no damage to its operation).

I would cry real tears if I had a knife that cost as much money as they do get exposed daily to job site rigors. I appreciate the fact that CR knives are truly icons and were for their time real ground breakers. Owning a CR knife to me is like owning a little piece of a legacy. And although they would no doubt acquit themselves well in the field, there is a reason that in the 50 years I have been in the trades I have never seen one (or any other $500+ knife) used by plumbers, electricians, concrete placers, brick masons, carpenters, etc.
 
Hey gang, I am new here on the BladeForums, but I am not a noob in regards to knives. I own, use, have bought and sold Hinderer, Spyderco, Medford and others. I am very discerning and picky with my knives. However, I want to ask this question, with genuine curiosity, and would like to hear from others. What the heck is so special about CRK? I bought a Sebenza 21, I think it was, many years back. Took it out of the box, handled it and returned it immediately. I could not stand the wimpy pocket clip, which laid right on top of the frame lockbar, which I don't like, and it just did not impress me for the money. Can any of you experts enlighten me? I would appreciate it!
I'd explain it to you but you wouldn't get it.
 
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