WTB thick stainless

L

lazylabs

Joined
Jan 27, 2009
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I guess I can start my first post on both knife forums with the same request. I am hoping to start working on my first knife. I have had no luck finding stainless blade material that's .625-.750 thick. Something along the line of CPM-154 or as close as I can get. It may turn out to be nothing but a pile of chips by the mill but I want to give it a shot. Thanks!
 
.625-.750 thick
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:eek::eek::eek:

Now that's some serious stock. The thickest I know of is around 1/4" from most knife making suppliers (except for 303 or similar...you can find 1/2+ there, but it's not suitable for blades). You'll have to look beyond the knife supply community most likely. Or see if you can find some SS round stock to mill down.

--nathan
 
I sent an email to crucible. I fully expect to get an answer of "The minimum order is 10,000lbs" So anyone interested in 9,950lbs of bar stock? haha
 
Prepare to spend $300.00 for belts to rough that out. That's some serious steel.:eek:
 
Call the Crucible Service Center in Dallas, TX, specifically. Ask to speak to Scott Devanna.
He's one of the two go-to guys for knife steel and probably easier to get a straight answer from than going through the email ladder.
 
I saw some bars of 440c at my supplier a few weeks ago that were somewhere near that size. I just took a quick looks in their cutoffs so the piece are usually less than 3' . They are Ventura Metals (805) 644-8371
 
Thanks for the responses and at least a couple places to try.

For those that asked if I was crazy... maybe. I saw a few examples of other folks using the integral design and like the idea of all the steel being from one billet. I have a bridgeport mill and all the tooling needed to get the job done..... I think. I want to build a knife and figured that since I am not willing to jump all the way to forging that the stock removal method was my best bet. The integral design seems to be a great way to make a stock removal knife so that's what I decided to try. Bad idea? I am certainly open to wiser opinions!

Thanks
 
lazylabs, there is a well known maker of stock removal integral knives named Edmund Davidson. He has published, with the help of David Darom, a book of how he makes his knives, replete with the machining techniques. Lots of pics.
While it is an expensive book, it is also an excellent book.
Here is his website: http://www.edmunddavidson.com/
 
Fitzo

I talked to Mr. Davidson and should have a copy of his book in a few days. It's a little expensive but only 1/3 the cost of a college text book and it might have some actual useful information it in. He was also nice enough to spend almost an hour on the phone talking knives and machining. I figure if I read his book and spend about 100 years making knives.... they still won't be as good.
 
I recieved a response from crucible that directed me to Scott Devanna in Arlington TX just as recommended by a member here. They have S30V available 1" thick. I have read as much as I can find about the different types of stainless but have no practical experience. Do you think this is a good steel for an integral design or should I look for other options? I will probably be sending it out for heat treating. Thanks!
 
Lazylabs,
I have a piece of CPM440V that's 3/4" x 1 3/4 x 18".

You can PM or e.mail me if that would interest you.
 
That is gonna be one expensive first knife. I'm no machinist, but I would think you're going to go through a fair amount of tooling working that down. Not to mention the amount of waste.

Chris Reeves says he uses A2 for his integral survival knives largely because it's inexpensive and machineable. In one of the recent magazines he mentioned wanting to use a higher grade steel, I think it was S30V, but the costs far outweighed the benefits.

May I respectfully say, you're kind of starting at the top of the stock-removal ladder. Hope you're good with that mill :)
 
Wow. All I can say is I'm impressed. Do yourself a favor and take your time. And don't forget to post here when you're done.
 
If you haven't ground out any other blades before, I'd definitely make a few for practice before risking what will be an expensive piece of steel. Good luck. :)
 
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I plan to grind a few blades of the same design out of thin stock to get a little practice. I probably won't bother to get them heat treated and the rest of the pieces put on. I just like the integral idea and while the steel might cost $70 more a knife compared to the amount of time you invest it's not significant. That is of course if I end up with a knife.... certainly a $5 piece of scrap thrown across the shop hurts a little less than a $70 piece of scrap. Once you screw up the chamber job on a $400 rifle barrel blank ruining a flat piece of steel is fun. :D
 
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