Yojimbo II

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Boberama

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Looks nice.

Can someone tell me why they chose a hollow-grind over a FFG for the second version?

Also I think this knife should be available in a cheaper version. Does anyone really need S30V for a defensive knife? How much cutting does one plan to do? Sure, it's nice to have the option and Spyderco always keeps it's production values top-notch but if they made a version in a cheaper steel it would be available to more people.
 
I believe there's test that show the hollow grind being more efficient on this type of knife. As for the steel, I assume they want the knife to appeal to a broad spectrum of possible buyers. It should make a decent user. Plus I'm not sure if it would be much less expensive with a different steel, S30V seems to be their basic steel choice for US made knives.
 
Hollow grinds get the sharpest. Thats one of the main reasons straight razors are hollow ground (that and it scoops the lather).

If you want a cheap version get the blackhawk bewharned, there are plenty of options and spyderco has decided to go for a more up scale defensive knife. Also there are plenty of people who will buy this and use it to slice cardboard who will appreciate the higher end steel, because lets face it...most people arent going to ever slice another person with it
 
Boberama said:
Looks nice.

Can someone tell me why they chose a hollow-grind over a FFG for the second version?

Also I think this knife should be available in a cheaper version. Does anyone really need S30V for a defensive knife? How much cutting does one plan to do? Sure, it's nice to have the option and Spyderco always keeps it's production values top-notch but if they made a version in a cheaper steel it would be available to more people.
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Some of the changes were made to make it more useful as a regular knife (as opposed to defensive weapon), so in that regard S30v makes sense.
 
I plan on getting one to use for daily carry. The defensive aspect of the design has no interest for me--it's just hard to beat a hollow-ground wharncliffe for precision cutting. Definitely happy to see S30V in lieu of something cheaper.
 
I'll eventually get one and wave mod it.
 
Boberama said:
Looks nice.

Can someone tell me why they chose a hollow-grind over a FFG for the second version?

Also I think this knife should be available in a cheaper version. Does anyone really need S30V for a defensive knife? How much cutting does one plan to do? Sure, it's nice to have the option and Spyderco always keeps it's production values top-notch but if they made a version in a cheaper steel it would be available to more people.
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Search for Spyderco Yojimbo2 on youtube and watch the video, that will answer your questions. In the second version it has gone from a SD knife to a more utilitarian knife. Machael Janich speaks to the changes and refinements made.

CPM-S30V is the staple steel that Spyderco uses on a large majority of the Golden made models. Look at the Military and Paramilitary2 as examples. It has a great balance of edge holding, toughness, and corrosion resistence. If someone doesn't like Wharncliffe blades how do you figure that a version with lesser materials would be more appealing?
 
I like the hollow grind bc it cuts just a hair under ffg but is strong enough that I feel secure boring holes, stabbing into whathave you and just in general takes away the worry i have with ffg. (the ss endura 4 and ffg endura 4 for reference) In my eyes the hollow ground can satisfy most knifeknuts grind standards and still be mostly drunkproof.

and i am extremely excited about the yojimbo 2 coming out. I love wharnys. ive never had s30v but iv never seen anyone complain about it, never seen anyone rave about it like cpm m4 or m390 or elmax but its the standard steel being used in most quality blades the same way it used to be 154cm.

I know the yojimbo is the folding version of snodys ronnin, which was designed for sd, but when i just started collecting and didnt even know they made knives for sd i was always attracted to it. i would drool over thinking about getting one, along with a ayoob and starmate. iv got my ayoob, and yojimbo soon, if only they will make a new starmate now haha
 
Warnies excel in utility task cutting cardboard, carpet, whatever. Just look at the Stanley knife. Also if I remember correctly Wharncliffs make it very easy to make full edge contact during a slice or slash, thus, I'm guessing thats why Michael Janich designed it with a Warnie in the first place. Either way I love the Warnie look and I wont be buying the knife on the self defense part. I hope to never even encounter a person I need to stab. But you can bet the cardboard will be fleeing in terror!
 
Never knew the original was built for defense (assuming that is true). If the Y2 doesn't do well I hope it isn't because of that. There are so many choices for SD and so precious few non-modified wharncliff folders. It would be a real shame for it to be dismissed as another tacticool face-slasher.
 
I think Spyderco does that to make the older models more desirable. :p

As in the case of the manix into the manix 2, or the chinook 2 to the chinook 3. ;)
 
they just design there knives in the dark, and constantly try to improve them. the reasons everyone likes a spyderco. and if there is ever a chinook 4 i am buying 3 of them.
 
Boberama said:
Looks nice.

Can someone tell me why they chose a hollow-grind over a FFG for the second version?

Also I think this knife should be available in a cheaper version. Does anyone really need S30V for a defensive knife? How much cutting does one plan to do? Sure, it's nice to have the option and Spyderco always keeps it's production values top-notch but if they made a version in a cheaper steel it would be available to more people.
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How many people do you plan to cut?

If the answer is greater than 0, you might want to rethink your lifestyle.

In any case, I carried an Emerson Super Karambit for nothing other than SD. The hawkbill blade wasn't suited to any utility tasks I needed to do, so I never used the knife. It ended up being more or less dead weight in my pocket, and I sold the thing.
 
I am not a SD guy, but I have talked with a few. Of those that share a similar philosophy to Mr. Janich, there seems to be a consensus that an aggressive cutting edge is best for these techniques. S30V supports a very good (and aggressive) working edge that performs well in this capacity.

Perhaps there are other steels that would perform better (S90V comes to my mind) but only at additional cost.

Edge performance is difficult to discuss without knowing what sort of cuts the user intends to perform. I would like to think that Mr. Janich understands quite well what sorts of materials a SD knife will encounter, and has enough knowledge and assistance to figure out how to design a good tool for his craft.
 
unit said:
I am not a SD guy, but I have talked with a few. Of those that share a similar philosophy to Mr. Janich, there seems to be a consensus that an aggressive cutting edge is best for these techniques. S30V supports a very good (and aggressive) working edge that performs well in this capacity.

Perhaps there are other steels that would perform better (S90V comes to my mind) but only at additional cost.

Edge performance is difficult to discuss without knowing what sort of cuts the user intends to perform. I would like to think that Mr. Janich understands quite well what sorts of materials a SD knife will encounter, and has enough knowledge and assistance to figure out how to design a good tool for his craft.
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Not recommended. S90V and similar steels will chip from grazing bone and metal. Hitting bone at high speeds with a hollow ground edge is guaranteed to take a piece out of the blade. And I wouldn't be talking about the possibility of using the knife ever again if it's ever used against another person. I mean it'll only be good for one hard cut before you end up with only the handle left or a sharpened prybar.

Given how difficult it is to get ahold of knives in such steels, I don't think a lot of people fully appreciate how fragile blades are that are made with these steels.
 
Just curious. Could someone show me a horribly chipped out S90V or S30v or D2 blade? I have never seen pics merely the legend that these steels chip easily.
 
Sorry, never took pictures when it happened. It's not a particularly big chip given that I don't use much force when cutting, just something that would bug me to no end if I left it there.

I don't believe S30V or D2 chips as easily as people might think. Dozier D2 in particular didn't seem to chip during the month or so I've been trimming onion roots with it, which has plenty of dirt in it. I've also slammed my ZT 0301 against a papaya tree during a bout of tactical mall ninjary with no evident damage or rolling, though I suppose edge geometry plays a big role in that.
 
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