You choose the torture/test...

Good Idea!

I'll do the honey-and-sand first with the knives closed and see how they function, and then apply the honey-and-sand with the knives already open.

Thanks,
Allen.
 
My .02 cents

Didn't Glock have series of test like running the glock over and freezing it
and letting it soak in water for like a week? that would be interseting to
see if the blade still could cut after being dunked in salty water for a
week! Or I could see a real life situation were someone's knife gets run
over by a auto.
 
A full day soak in saltly water will pit even steels like ATS-34, it chews up D2 badly. It would be interesting to see if it effected the action on folders, prepare for a funky looking blade.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
A full day soak in saltly water will pit even steels like ATS-34, it chews up D2 badly. It would be interesting to see if it effected the action on folders, prepare for a funky looking blade.

-Cliff

Granted, what about if blood was left on the action? Fairly acidic(?) and
sticky. I would like to see a "run over" test though. Would the salty
water test even effect ceramic blades?
 
Put the knifes into sand and see how they behave. Roof dropping might be nice but i would expect a blade damage more than a lock failure.

Clean them and see how easily it goes (a sanded knife is not destroyed, so cleaning will follow).

Dirt tests are more important in comparision for me.
 
Salt water would not do anything to ceramics, Stellite, Titanium, or H1, but can really rust even the more corrosion resistant high carbon stainless grades.

-Cliff
 
The roof-drop test will be with the blades closed.

I don't need a "test" to prove that the tip of a blade can snap off after a high fall, regardless of blade-steel.

I'm interested in how the inpact will affect the locks and scales--the same is true of the roll-over test.

I'm even considering doing these tests on my Benchmade 722 to see how the G-10 scales hold up.
But it is a rather expensive folder...
And I am also curious about how micarta would fare, but the only one I have is the old discontinued Calypso Jr.

Allen.
 
Okay, I could'nt make myself wait any longer, so here goes....

THE SYRUP-AND-SAND TEST:
I did'nt have any honey so I used sand and Karo corn syrup.
What a sticky gritty mess!

The contestants were:
Benchmade 556 (Axis-lock)
Spyderco Rescue (lockback)
CRKT M16-03 (liner-lock)
Timberline Timberlite (Neeley-lock)
Gerber Para-frame (Frame-lock)
Kershaw 2950 (Opinel lock)

After coating them with syrup, I then buried them in sand (the knives were closed).
After digging them out of the sand I removed all the excess sand that I could and tried to deploy the blade.
ALL FAILED.
None would open and lock, but the Benchmade 556 came the closest to actually locking.

I then washed them clean, recoated and re-buried the knives, but this time with them open.
I dug them up and removed the excess and then tried to work them closed.
The CRKT M16-03 and the Timberlite were the only two that would not close.

I then washed them in a bucket of water using only my hands--afterwards they all functioned properly.



THE HIT-AND-RUN(over) TEST:

The contestants:
All of the previous knives used in the syrup-and-sand test and a few extras:
Spyderco SS Endura II
Spyderco micarta Calypso Jr
Benchmade 722

BTW, Right about now you're probably having your doubts that I really did risk these knives--after all, I don't have any pictures, right?

What you must understand is that I am a real knife-freak like the rest of you (or at least like some of you).
And just like many of you, I have alot of knives.
And I have alot of knives that I don't carry for various reasons, and I have some that I just don't like much (chalk it up to the learning curve and inexperience).
Often I think "what a shame to just have them in a box and never use them".
And sometimes I think that I should sell some of them to make a few bucks.
And some I have given to friends over the years.
But often I wonder just how tough they are?
Just how strong and tough is G-10 and micarta and FRN?
How strong is that lock?
And combine that with the fact that I'm a real "doubting Thomas", and you'll understand why I just have to see things for myself.


Anyway, back to the test...

I placed, two at a time, the knives behind the rear tires of my Ford Explorer Sport-Trac (I was on my concrete driveway, the bed was empty, and the knives were closed).
I backed up over the knives so that both the rear and front tires hit them--and then I ran them over again going forward.
So that one rear tire and one front tire hit the knife twice.

I'm happy to say that there was no real damage at all.
The Gerber Para-frame got a little scuffed, as did the CRKT M16-03.
On the Benchmade 556, one thumbstud (the one touching the concrete) was a little "chewed up".
But all knives worked just fine afterwards.
I was impressed.



THE DROP-ZONE:
I knew that this would be the most damaging of all the tests,which was why I did it last.

The contestants:
The same ones as in the hit-and-runover test.

I dropped the knives off the roof of my two-story home and on to the concrete patio.
I did this three times--but I should have stopped at one drop.

I would love to say that all of the knives survived without injury, but that was not the case.

Benchmade 556:
The Axis-lock came through with flying (literally) colors.
After all three drops, the lock works fine.
OTOH, the handles did suffered some damage.
Scuffs all over the edges at the butt and pivot ends.
And a small split occured at the pivot end on one side right above the liner.
The back of the handle is also separating and, with the blade open, light can be seen through the back of the handle.
But the knife is still 100% functional and passed the spine-whack-test.

Gerber Para-frame:
The blade opened upon impact all three times resulting with a small amount of tip blunting.
The lock survived and works great and passed the spine-whack-test.
The frame/handle suffered only small abrasions on the pivot and butt ends.

CRKT M16-03:
Virtually the same results as the Gerber.
It also opened with each impact.
And it also suffered only minor scrapes on the ends, and the lock is also fine.
It also passed the spine-whack-test afterwards.

Spyderco Rescue:
Suffered only minor scrapes also at the butt and pivot ends.
The lock works just fine and passed the spine-whack-test.
The FRN impressed me very much.
The blade actually open on one impact but not on the other two.

Timberline Timberlite:
Suffered only ONE small scuff on the corner at the pivot end.
This was also the lightest-weight knife in the test.
To look at the knife, you would never suspect the abuse it has suffered.
The lock works (as much as any Neeley-lock) and has passed the spine-whack-test.

Spyderco micarta Calypso Jr:
The micarta was scraped and scuffed on the butt and pivot ends to about the same extent as the FRN Rescue.
Unfortunately, the handle separated at the pivot and the small washer or disc around the pivot-pin has come off.
Surprisingly, the lock still works and the knife passed the spine-whack-test.

Kershaw 2950:
This cheap little folder did not survive at all.
The locking collar came off, as did the rubber grips, and a piece of the handle broke off.
I suspect that the broken handle actually might have occured during the hit-and-runover test, but the damage was hidden beneath the rubber grips.

Now the two that surprised me the most:

Benchmade 722:
The knife still functions and the Axis-lock is still rock-solid (and passed the spine-whack test too).
This knife opened on one impact but not the other two.
However,the G-10 scales did'nt fare so well.
On the butt end the one scale has a sizable "chip" right at one of the nuts that hold the scales together.
And at the pivot end, that same scale has developed a split, as if two of the G-10 layers are separating.

Spyderco SS Endura II:
This one suffered the most damage of all the knives.
The butt looks more chewed than a West Point cadet's, and the pivot end looks even worse!
In fact, the pivot end of the scales are bent so far inward that it prevents the blade from being fully opened.
This was also the heaviest of the knives tested.


Well, since they're already broken, I don't have any problem with testing solvents and solutions on the handles--so give me you suggestions for these knives:

SS Endura II
Benchmade 722 (G-10 scales)
Spyderco Calypso Jr (micarta)
benchmade 556 (Noryl GTX)


Now... I need a drink!

Allen.
 
Very interesting tests. :eek: Thanks. :D

allenC said:
Well, since they're already broken, I don't have any problem with testing solvents and solutions on the handles--so give me you suggestions for these knives:

SS Endura II
Benchmade 722 (G-10 scales)
Spyderco Calypso Jr (micarta)
benchmade 556 (Noryl GTX)
  • DEET.
  • Gasoline
  • Carb cleaner
  • Oven cleaner.
  • Bleach.



- Frank
 
Interesting results, especially on the drop work. I have done some hammering on G10/Micarta and it is fariyl durable in regards to blunt impacts, however you are seeing more of highly localized impacts, and noting the heavier knives, even when built out of tougher materials can take more of a beating as the materials are heavy enough to produce significantly greater impact energies.

-Cliff
 
allenC said:
THE DROP-ZONE:.....Now the two that surprised me the most:

Benchmade 722:
The knife still functions and the Axis-lock is still rock-solid (and passed the spine-whack test too).
This knife opened on one impact but not the other two.
However,the G-10 scales did'nt fare so well.
On the butt end the one scale has a sizable "chip" right at one of the nuts that hold the scales together.
And at the pivot end, that same scale has developed a split, as if two of the G-10 layers are separating.


Allen.

I had a similar experience with my Benchmade 721. It flew out of my pocket as I was running out of my house and skittered along the front walkway. When I recovered the knife the G-10 had a "dent" in it and a split where the G-10 layers were delaminating.
Otherwise the knife works well.

From this unplanned "test" of mine I became somewhat suspicious of G-10s "toughness".

I've always wondered how micarta would compare to G-10. Thanks for doing the test.

LJG
 
I have screwed up the points on several decent knives using them for an ice pick.

This surprised me, I woundn't have thought it would be that damaging, but it looked as though the edge and point had chipped.


Try Acetone on the handles
 
Thanks for the test, Allen ! :thumbup:

One idea that comes into my mind is to leave the Axis lock BM in a glass of salt water for one ore two days, let it dry for some time and then open and close the blade as much as you can.

That's for testing the omega springs of the Axis lock. It's a simulation of how bad will rust affect them. I really think that the rusted spring, at that level, can break, leaving the knife inoperant.

Regards,

Andre Tiba - Brazil
 
This is an old thread but this may breathe some new life into it.

How about trying to split a 2x4 with a one of these knifes by hammering on
the handle? Or trying to split the 2x4 into kindling with one? Use a hammer
on the spine of a lockback? That is a true test of the strength of a lockback
knife.....
 
put them into a coat pocket and slam them in a car door.then try a truck door.I did this ot a ruco tanto blade,twice.Once by accident.Poor little thing just couldn't take the pressure.
 
Well, I guess it's time for an update...

Where are they now?

The Benchmade 556 and 722, the CRKT M16, and the Spyderco Calypso Jr were scrapped for parts.
I now have some extra omega-springs and Axis-lock bars, pivot screws, and washers.

If you're interested in the blades themselves, here's a link for you:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3229532#post3229532

I still have the Gerber Para-frame and use it in my garage.
And I still have the Timberline Timberlite.

The others, and the busted up handles were given to a friend of mine--I think that he was intested in either salvaging the micarta from the Calypso Jr, or testing the handles?

Allen.
 
Here's my idea of a good test.

You give them to a Montana rancher, a Pennsylvania Amish carpenter, a Califorinia vineyard owner, and then you evaluate them after 1 year, 5 year, 10 year, and 20 years periods of use.

No whacking concrete blocks, stabbing soggy phone books or anything like that, just daily chores over a period of time.

I know it's not practical but it would be a very good test, IMHO.
 
How about this test for blade and lock strength. Take a pair of two by fours, nail them together. Than attach it the to a wall or something very securely. Than wedge the knife between the two planks and two a chin up several times and see what happens :)
 
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