You probably don't want to harden D2 to 62

AVigil said:
I typically use 1.5" wheel
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Or if you have a 2" contact wheel instead of an aluminum idler on the top or bottom of your flat platen assembly, if dimensions permit, you can just use the corner of this without switching tooling. Just figured I'd mention this as a "time saving" tip. I've switched all my flat platens to 2" contact wheels top and bottom, and find myself using them constantly for misc stuff like this.
 
Thanks. I have 2'' wheels now, and a 1.5'' on order.

Previously I had tried a 3'' wheel and it was too close to the edges for comfort.
 
AVigil said:
Matt is a Wizard :)

Here is a pict for reference of a few I am working on.

WmEVEDb.jpg
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Really nice work Adam. Is the tang hollow done with a 2 inch wheel?
I need to get me a rubber one.
 
I use a 5" wheel for tangs. Cut the hollow from the very butt, to under where the bolster will be. And right up to the edges, as close as I can get without cutting through them. Metal will be removed everywhere flattening, so as long as you don't gouge the edge, you can get as close as you want.

Loveless used a 10" wheel for tapering tangs if I remember right
 
I have a 10", 4", 2", 1.5" wheel all can be use but

the 1.5" wheel goes deeper and makes it easier from grinding to the edge.
 
I use a 5" wheel to hollow for tapering a tang & go past the edges and to the scribed lines at the butt. This leaves very little material to grind on the flat platen. Goes very quick.
 
I hadn't really thought it that. You're going to make new flats so just watch your lines. Good tips.
 
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