Hello, I am the creator of this thread, most of you have forgotten about me and THE ONE topic which was posted. I wanted to know about knives people have heard of, made, or bought, good knives. I use the term "combat" loosly to mean utility type knives that can be counted on during the type of extremes that are often ecountered during cimbat, and (if neccesary as a defensive tool). You can call them survival knives, camp knives, fighting knives, whatever I think you know what I meant. Out of all the responses that have been posted have yielded ANY info on specific knives except when someone mentionns a crappy Ka-bar or something that I could buy for $25-30 most anywhere. I am interested in more custom knives like Greco, Strider etc... I would appreciate you discussing topics such as your credintials, definition of a "combat", how many people you've killed with knives or not. I DON'T care for all I know none of you have ever been into combat, gone camping or whatever there's no way to prove you credintials here. Yes I do appreciate your opinions but only if your opinions can be followed by where I can find the knives your endorse. If you help me find them I can then evaluate the product myself. Please remind yourself of my ACTUAL question next time you respond.
Your best combat fixed blade...Any price
- Thread starter Chiro75
- Start date
Sir I believe you are a little out of line here. So what if people get off topic it happens it just about every thread and that is actually when the really good info comes out. If you had been here very long you would no this.
As for calling kabars crappy that is really uncalled for. They may not be the best but they have proven themselves. Anyways its all opinion in the end.
And actually all the people you have wandered off topic have already posted their favorite "combat knife" so they have been answering the original question. If people are going to post on there favorite "combat knife" they will. If they aren't going to they won't. Trust me.
As for people being specific well oftem they are not because the knives they have can be had in many variations I believe.
Also , I don't mean to be harsh or judgmental but we like to learn things to just not feed out info.
Lastly, unfortunately just using a general term like combat knives and hoping people get the idea doesn't always work. Like I said everybody has their own opinion. BF is learnign more about knives so people are going to try and define terms such as combat knives exactly as well.
All in all please calm down and I am sure every one will try and stay on topic. And I am sorry if I sound angry I am jsut trying to shed light on a few things.
thanks and take care
collin
P.S. As for me I don't really have a favorite. If I had to choose it would be my Battle Mistress or my 20 inch Ang Kola from Himalayan Imports but I really don't use my blades enough to say.
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
As for calling kabars crappy that is really uncalled for. They may not be the best but they have proven themselves. Anyways its all opinion in the end.
And actually all the people you have wandered off topic have already posted their favorite "combat knife" so they have been answering the original question. If people are going to post on there favorite "combat knife" they will. If they aren't going to they won't. Trust me.
As for people being specific well oftem they are not because the knives they have can be had in many variations I believe.
Also , I don't mean to be harsh or judgmental but we like to learn things to just not feed out info.
Lastly, unfortunately just using a general term like combat knives and hoping people get the idea doesn't always work. Like I said everybody has their own opinion. BF is learnign more about knives so people are going to try and define terms such as combat knives exactly as well.
All in all please calm down and I am sure every one will try and stay on topic. And I am sorry if I sound angry I am jsut trying to shed light on a few things.
thanks and take care
collin
P.S. As for me I don't really have a favorite. If I had to choose it would be my Battle Mistress or my 20 inch Ang Kola from Himalayan Imports but I really don't use my blades enough to say.
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 01 July 1999).]
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We have a bunch of schools of thought on "combat knives" represented here, and it's hard to discuss what is the "best combatg knife" without hashing over what one means by a "combat knife" - Building a shelter? Arterial bleeding?
Assuming, for purposes of this thread, that one is carrying a "best quality" and therefore expensive knife into a combat situation, as opposed to a foot soldier without a lot of money carrying whatever his government issues and/or whatever he can buy, beg, borrow, or steal, because he doesn't have hundreds of dollars to spend or months to wait or delivery, the basic design desired can vary wildly.
A kukri type or a puukko are two extremes that are both very successful "combat knives" both as tools and as weapons in the hands of good soldiers in different armies and different places.
A Randall, a Chris Reeve, a Busse - They have in common a point and an edge.
So we're inevetably, in a thread like this, comparing apples and apples from different farms, and also the relative merits of apples and oranges.
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- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
Assuming, for purposes of this thread, that one is carrying a "best quality" and therefore expensive knife into a combat situation, as opposed to a foot soldier without a lot of money carrying whatever his government issues and/or whatever he can buy, beg, borrow, or steal, because he doesn't have hundreds of dollars to spend or months to wait or delivery, the basic design desired can vary wildly.
A kukri type or a puukko are two extremes that are both very successful "combat knives" both as tools and as weapons in the hands of good soldiers in different armies and different places.
A Randall, a Chris Reeve, a Busse - They have in common a point and an edge.
So we're inevetably, in a thread like this, comparing apples and apples from different farms, and also the relative merits of apples and oranges.
------------------
- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com
Les Robertson
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Max,
Rudy is correct, you are way out of line. Besides beggars can't be choosers. You want the one knife that will solve your need.
Ok, obviously you know it's not a K-Bar. So go buy a couple thousand dollars worth of knvies, figure out which one(s) suit your needs.
As for people's credentials, they are important. As they can give you an insight to a knife that you are not familiar with and under condiditions you have probably never been in.
This forum is for all to learn from. As Rudy stated your question had been answered. Just out of curiousity, why do you need a combat/utility/fighting knife and what is your background?
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Les Robertson
Moderator
Robertson's Custom Cutlery
http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/makers.shtml
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
Rudy is correct, you are way out of line. Besides beggars can't be choosers. You want the one knife that will solve your need.
Ok, obviously you know it's not a K-Bar. So go buy a couple thousand dollars worth of knvies, figure out which one(s) suit your needs.
As for people's credentials, they are important. As they can give you an insight to a knife that you are not familiar with and under condiditions you have probably never been in.
This forum is for all to learn from. As Rudy stated your question had been answered. Just out of curiousity, why do you need a combat/utility/fighting knife and what is your background?
------------------
Les Robertson
Moderator
Robertson's Custom Cutlery
http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/makers.shtml
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
not2sharp
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This tread has been very interesting but James is right. It is very hard to have an inform discussion around something as neboulos as a "combat knife."
I have a number of good fieldcraft knives including Randall mods 14 & 18, Coldsteel Trailmaster, SOG Trident, 20" Ang Khola,Gerber BMF,etc. The knife that has actually worked best for me (on 5 day rustic camping or conoe trips in the lower 48)has been a bit of surprise.
A couple of years ago I received several copies on the model 1969 Spanish Ceteme bayonet. This bayonet features an 8" high cabon blade (usually blued) with a spear point and slightly bolo shaped blade (max width is about 1 inch). I was scheduled to go on a week long conoe trip the following week and I decided to take one of the bayonets and beat the $%&!! out of it to see how it held up. I think the sturdy plastic sheath (conoe trip) is what finally convinced me to give it a try.
You guest it, the knife behaved very well and has since become my preferred camp knife. The high carbon edge does rust away from time to time but otherwise the edge retention from normal usage is very good (and sharp) and the bolo shape is a plus for hacking vegetation.
If the S--- every hits the fan I reach for Randall, for my usual camping trip I'll use the $20 bayonet - it works fine and if it gets lost - who cares
...happy camping.
I have a number of good fieldcraft knives including Randall mods 14 & 18, Coldsteel Trailmaster, SOG Trident, 20" Ang Khola,Gerber BMF,etc. The knife that has actually worked best for me (on 5 day rustic camping or conoe trips in the lower 48)has been a bit of surprise.
A couple of years ago I received several copies on the model 1969 Spanish Ceteme bayonet. This bayonet features an 8" high cabon blade (usually blued) with a spear point and slightly bolo shaped blade (max width is about 1 inch). I was scheduled to go on a week long conoe trip the following week and I decided to take one of the bayonets and beat the $%&!! out of it to see how it held up. I think the sturdy plastic sheath (conoe trip) is what finally convinced me to give it a try.
You guest it, the knife behaved very well and has since become my preferred camp knife. The high carbon edge does rust away from time to time but otherwise the edge retention from normal usage is very good (and sharp) and the bolo shape is a plus for hacking vegetation.
If the S--- every hits the fan I reach for Randall, for my usual camping trip I'll use the $20 bayonet - it works fine and if it gets lost - who cares
...happy camping.
Mr. Power,
In my first post I did describe a "combat knife" that I am building and a number of thoughts that have influenced its design and might be applied to your judgment of other such knives if you feel my thinking has merit. I think that a number of posters have mentioned production and handmade knives that would admirably fit your definition of "combat knife," which is a stroke of luck as you didn't give any definition until I had thrown the thread off with that very question.
I understand your desire to find an ideal knife of a particular kind, and I understand your aggravation that the thread should drift away from that. My suggestion to you is to post a new thread with a very specific definition of the type of knife you want, perhaps even a list for folks to choose from, and ask folks to submit only the name of a knife, not a detailed argument or commentary. I've seen this done here, and while it doesn't work perfectly, it gets much closer to the concise responses I think you were looking for.
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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
In my first post I did describe a "combat knife" that I am building and a number of thoughts that have influenced its design and might be applied to your judgment of other such knives if you feel my thinking has merit. I think that a number of posters have mentioned production and handmade knives that would admirably fit your definition of "combat knife," which is a stroke of luck as you didn't give any definition until I had thrown the thread off with that very question.
I understand your desire to find an ideal knife of a particular kind, and I understand your aggravation that the thread should drift away from that. My suggestion to you is to post a new thread with a very specific definition of the type of knife you want, perhaps even a list for folks to choose from, and ask folks to submit only the name of a knife, not a detailed argument or commentary. I've seen this done here, and while it doesn't work perfectly, it gets much closer to the concise responses I think you were looking for.
------------------
-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
Cliff Stamp
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Les, thanks for the detailed answer.
Have you seen any chipping or significant indenting of the tip or edge while doing the things you mention? About how long does it take at the end of the day to restore the edge? Are we talking a few minutes or significant time like a half an hour?
Yeah, this is very important. Take the time to discuss this aspect of the knife with the maker if possible, they are in the best position to comment on its intended uses and what is or is not acceptable strain. Be very direct and ask questions like "Ok, so what level of damage can I expect to the blade if I do XXX? Chipping / indenting? How much penetration into the blade?" Listen carefully to what they say, for example if you ask "So can I do XXX" and you get "I have done XXX before", walk away. That is someone pulling a Clinton and using very misleading language which gives them the chance to lawyer out if the need arises. The answer to this question should be "Yes, you can do XXX" or "No, you can not do XXX". Vague answers are a sure sign of hype. Someone who is confident in their product will be very direct and open about exactly what should happen.
On the money. While I could become interested in a knife from something I have read, I would never trust its ability to do something unless I had done it before hand. If you are buying a knife and the maker/dealer does anything but outright encourage you to test their claims, then their claims are just that and nothing more.
-Cliff
Have you seen any chipping or significant indenting of the tip or edge while doing the things you mention? About how long does it take at the end of the day to restore the edge? Are we talking a few minutes or significant time like a half an hour?
Yeah, this is very important. Take the time to discuss this aspect of the knife with the maker if possible, they are in the best position to comment on its intended uses and what is or is not acceptable strain. Be very direct and ask questions like "Ok, so what level of damage can I expect to the blade if I do XXX? Chipping / indenting? How much penetration into the blade?" Listen carefully to what they say, for example if you ask "So can I do XXX" and you get "I have done XXX before", walk away. That is someone pulling a Clinton and using very misleading language which gives them the chance to lawyer out if the need arises. The answer to this question should be "Yes, you can do XXX" or "No, you can not do XXX". Vague answers are a sure sign of hype. Someone who is confident in their product will be very direct and open about exactly what should happen.
On the money. While I could become interested in a knife from something I have read, I would never trust its ability to do something unless I had done it before hand. If you are buying a knife and the maker/dealer does anything but outright encourage you to test their claims, then their claims are just that and nothing more.
-Cliff
For those of you Corduroy, Les Robertson etc.. who have posted reviews and opinions on different knives my previous message was not for you. Second I didn't mean to sound out of line but, you must understand that I have yet to learn anything new about knives on this thread. Ka-bars are practically inborn knife buzz-words (in my opinion at least), I know most everything about Cold Steel knives already, and as far as the Brend knives that have been discussed I still have know idea where to find them or at least more info. (Which if any of you have I would greatly appreciate as I have become greatly interested in Walter's knives). As for credintials, to be honest, I have none, I've never been into combat myself and at this point I hope I never have to. So my desire for info on "combat knives" is not that I need a combat knife for combat. As I mentioned I use the term "combat knife" very loosly not necessarily litterally. When you say you have been into combat and experienced the inhrent rigors firsthand I believe you but I think that you can understand why it doesn't mean much having never met you. I agree that your credintials and your experience does help any case you may have for or against a knife. Many have posted on this thread have posted saying their definition of a combat knife is and never posted again, that is what I was speaking out against. I must apoligize for any offensive comments I made foe as I was heavily medicated at the time. Thank you I hope this helps shed light on my opinion of this topic.
p.s. As I mentioned before I am very interested in Walter Brend's knives. If any of you know where I can find info on the models you mentioned and possibly purchase them you would be a great help. Also if any of you have the abilty to post pictures of Brend knives you have or a place where I can see other pictures I would appreciate it immensly.
p.s. As I mentioned before I am very interested in Walter Brend's knives. If any of you know where I can find info on the models you mentioned and possibly purchase them you would be a great help. Also if any of you have the abilty to post pictures of Brend knives you have or a place where I can see other pictures I would appreciate it immensly.
Cliff Stamp
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MaxPower, this is the Brend #2 :
Les is a dealer for Brend knives.
-Cliff
Les is a dealer for Brend knives.
-Cliff
Mr. Robertson as I have said before I appoligize for any comments I said that sounded offensive. That out of the way have been told that you are a dealer of Brend knives. I asume then that you own Robertson Custom Cutlery. I have been to your sight but I did notice that your Brend section was not up and running except for the small one in the F5 collection. Do you by any chance have a catalog? I you can help I would appreciate it
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I have a Ka-Bar Next Gen that feel real comforable, it would be my knife of chice in a fight, but I haven't seen and used as many knives as some people up here. I hear a lot of people talking about the Cold Steel Recon Tanto as well, which I own. Do people like it better than the SRK? (yeah, they're similar).
And one final question I have - do people like double edged or single edged knives better? SOG has a Desert Dagger and a Recon Government that both caught my eye. Advantages/disadvantages of single/double edge?
And one final question I have - do people like double edged or single edged knives better? SOG has a Desert Dagger and a Recon Government that both caught my eye. Advantages/disadvantages of single/double edge?
My feelings about the company aside, the Recon Tanto and SRK are both great knives for the money. They are strong, easy-to-sharpen, take a scary edge, and have no "frills" to jack up the price and possibly get in the way of their proper use as basic cutting tools. I'd choose an SRK because I feel a knife must have a curved belly to be very useful, plus its point is more in-line with the handle and is ground plenty strong as it is. I have no use for a tanto when another knife of the same class is available in a more standard configuration.
Double-edged knives are illegal in many places, including my home state of Massachusetts. They also are weaker than knives of the same size with a single edge. They give all of the poor geometry of a saber-ground knife (ground only halfway to the spine) but throw away the increase in strength by grinding a second edge on the spine. They have the further disadvantage of presenting a sharp edge to the user while the knife is used for utility. The advantage of a double edge is that it has massively better penetration than a single edge (in my experience, which is not on humans) and the ability to deliver back-cuts.
I don't think highly of SOGs. Their construction is excellent, plus they are the only production company that solders the guard to seal and secure it, but their usual blade steel is 440A. This is poor in edge-holding (again my experience) but tough and easy to sharpen. I believe the "Desert Dagger" is in 440C, however, and that performs substantially better. I will add, though, that for the one role in which double-edged knives excel - killing people - edge-retention is not a concern.
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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
Double-edged knives are illegal in many places, including my home state of Massachusetts. They also are weaker than knives of the same size with a single edge. They give all of the poor geometry of a saber-ground knife (ground only halfway to the spine) but throw away the increase in strength by grinding a second edge on the spine. They have the further disadvantage of presenting a sharp edge to the user while the knife is used for utility. The advantage of a double edge is that it has massively better penetration than a single edge (in my experience, which is not on humans) and the ability to deliver back-cuts.
I don't think highly of SOGs. Their construction is excellent, plus they are the only production company that solders the guard to seal and secure it, but their usual blade steel is 440A. This is poor in edge-holding (again my experience) but tough and easy to sharpen. I believe the "Desert Dagger" is in 440C, however, and that performs substantially better. I will add, though, that for the one role in which double-edged knives excel - killing people - edge-retention is not a concern.
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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
Combat knives huh? I have to side with Les when he derides folks who spout their wisdom without any information or experience, other than the personal bias of having owned a particular knife.
From my meager experience, as it was only a few years, and falls far short the experience of the men I worked with there is a pretty consistent pattern of knives. It is important to distinguish between the soldier who cares about his equipment and demands only the best of himself and the tools he chooses to use and the average soldier who just wants to make through this enlistment to buy that new car and 32 inch Sony TV that the exchange just got in.
I could wax for pages about the fixed blades I used while in the Army, but only two really stand out, a Mad Dog ATAK/2 and a Randall #5. Both knives have done pretty much everything, but the ATAK really stands out, but was blunted while digging, and with Kevin McClung's various warranty machinations, I wouldn't buy another. Hopefully the Busse Basic line will fill the void, and with a lower entrance free as well. Anyway, the ATAK, has done about everything you can ask a knife to do. The most impressive feat for me was not while I was in uniform, but will pulling myself up a loblolly pine tree in a climbing tree stand. I repeadidly pulled the entire weight of the stand and myself with the ATAK, whose tip penetrated perhaps ¼ inch into the trunk, no deformation, blunting, or loss of edge, chrome loss or anything, and it was snowing.
Randall #5 was my first foray and was largely influenced by the folks at 7th GRP SOCCE. There is really only one knife perveyor in Fayetteville, Green Mountain Knife and Gun, and they carry a bunch of Randals. It was the most common, custom blade I saw used and carried. The mystique of these knives is tough to beat. Never heard of one breaking from anyone I personally knew, and mine was beaten pretty hard. Now, they will corrode like crazy, but triflow/CLP/tuff cloth should take care of that problem. My personal model looks like hell, and the leather sheath was retired for a Eagle nylon one, but the blade is still intact, and has a mean edge. Did have to return it once when the micarta handle loosened. But that was because the butt had been used to hammer out a section of a GRID50 pole.
Production knives have come so far in such a short time. Cold Steel makes a hell of a field knife for a budget price IMHO. Not sexy, but gets the job done. I can't wait for a Busse Basic #9.
From my meager experience, as it was only a few years, and falls far short the experience of the men I worked with there is a pretty consistent pattern of knives. It is important to distinguish between the soldier who cares about his equipment and demands only the best of himself and the tools he chooses to use and the average soldier who just wants to make through this enlistment to buy that new car and 32 inch Sony TV that the exchange just got in.
I could wax for pages about the fixed blades I used while in the Army, but only two really stand out, a Mad Dog ATAK/2 and a Randall #5. Both knives have done pretty much everything, but the ATAK really stands out, but was blunted while digging, and with Kevin McClung's various warranty machinations, I wouldn't buy another. Hopefully the Busse Basic line will fill the void, and with a lower entrance free as well. Anyway, the ATAK, has done about everything you can ask a knife to do. The most impressive feat for me was not while I was in uniform, but will pulling myself up a loblolly pine tree in a climbing tree stand. I repeadidly pulled the entire weight of the stand and myself with the ATAK, whose tip penetrated perhaps ¼ inch into the trunk, no deformation, blunting, or loss of edge, chrome loss or anything, and it was snowing.
Randall #5 was my first foray and was largely influenced by the folks at 7th GRP SOCCE. There is really only one knife perveyor in Fayetteville, Green Mountain Knife and Gun, and they carry a bunch of Randals. It was the most common, custom blade I saw used and carried. The mystique of these knives is tough to beat. Never heard of one breaking from anyone I personally knew, and mine was beaten pretty hard. Now, they will corrode like crazy, but triflow/CLP/tuff cloth should take care of that problem. My personal model looks like hell, and the leather sheath was retired for a Eagle nylon one, but the blade is still intact, and has a mean edge. Did have to return it once when the micarta handle loosened. But that was because the butt had been used to hammer out a section of a GRID50 pole.
Production knives have come so far in such a short time. Cold Steel makes a hell of a field knife for a budget price IMHO. Not sexy, but gets the job done. I can't wait for a Busse Basic #9.
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- 4,842
Is that a hollow ground primary bevel on the Brend #2?
I've heard great things about Brends from other people besides Les. I pick 'em up whenever I can, but usually the handle is too big for my hands, sometimes much too big. Make sure you try 'em out first!
Joe
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 02 July 1999).]
I've heard great things about Brends from other people besides Les. I pick 'em up whenever I can, but usually the handle is too big for my hands, sometimes much too big. Make sure you try 'em out first!
Joe
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 02 July 1999).]
Les Robertson
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Max,
Currently, Walter is not taking orders for his knives. I have 18 knives on order with Walter and I hope to get them all in before the end of the year.
Currently, Walter is working on the F-4 for LDC (yes, Bob Neal and I are the owners of LDC). This is a 5 1/2" version for the model 2.
Joe, you may want to look at one of these. I have small hands too, but found out when I was at Northern Warfare school that you cant have too big of a handle when your wearing those big mittens. Even during the summer months or ops in "warm climates" I usually wore some type of gloves, that and racquetball goggles are indespensible during nite ops.
I have some 7" Model 2's on order and this would probably fill the bill as well.
I would also recommend you check out the following:
www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/sistf.htm
Also,
www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/broadtf.htm
I designed the knives in the MLR series and the Strike Force by Siska was something that he designed 10 years ago and sent to me to field test for him. Now he is making this again for me exclusively.
These knives rival the Brends. The Broadwell is geared a little more towards the fighter side of the house and the Siska is geared more towards utility. However, I dont think any one would argue that Jim Siskas knife would be a formidable fighter.
Walter's Model 2's when they become available will cost $800.00. I have one Model 2 with a Sub-Hilt in D-2. Price is $1,050.00.
It's a shame that these knives have become so expensive (yes I am adding a $100 premium) that few will use them as they should be used.
This is why I got with two world class knife makers such as David and Jim to have these knives made.
Joe the good news is there is no white knuckle failure with these knives!
------------------
Les Robertson
Moderator
Robertson's Custom Cutlery
http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/makers.shtml
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
Currently, Walter is not taking orders for his knives. I have 18 knives on order with Walter and I hope to get them all in before the end of the year.
Currently, Walter is working on the F-4 for LDC (yes, Bob Neal and I are the owners of LDC). This is a 5 1/2" version for the model 2.
Joe, you may want to look at one of these. I have small hands too, but found out when I was at Northern Warfare school that you cant have too big of a handle when your wearing those big mittens. Even during the summer months or ops in "warm climates" I usually wore some type of gloves, that and racquetball goggles are indespensible during nite ops.
I have some 7" Model 2's on order and this would probably fill the bill as well.
I would also recommend you check out the following:
www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/sistf.htm
Also,
www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/broadtf.htm
I designed the knives in the MLR series and the Strike Force by Siska was something that he designed 10 years ago and sent to me to field test for him. Now he is making this again for me exclusively.
These knives rival the Brends. The Broadwell is geared a little more towards the fighter side of the house and the Siska is geared more towards utility. However, I dont think any one would argue that Jim Siskas knife would be a formidable fighter.
Walter's Model 2's when they become available will cost $800.00. I have one Model 2 with a Sub-Hilt in D-2. Price is $1,050.00.
It's a shame that these knives have become so expensive (yes I am adding a $100 premium) that few will use them as they should be used.
This is why I got with two world class knife makers such as David and Jim to have these knives made.
Joe the good news is there is no white knuckle failure with these knives!
------------------
Les Robertson
Moderator
Robertson's Custom Cutlery
http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/rcc/makers.shtml
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 4,842
Max --
The way I get to handle Brends is the same way I get to handle many cool knives. I hit all the knife shows I can, and also the gun shows that are heavy on knife dealers. Les Robertson's table at any knife show is a treasure trove of great knives. If he's not going to be at a knife show near you, you may want to consider taking yourself to Las Vegas during one of the big Las Vegas knife shows, do some gambling and check out some knives.
Les -- That Broadwell fighter is super nice. Hopefully you'll have one on your table next time I see you!
Joe
The way I get to handle Brends is the same way I get to handle many cool knives. I hit all the knife shows I can, and also the gun shows that are heavy on knife dealers. Les Robertson's table at any knife show is a treasure trove of great knives. If he's not going to be at a knife show near you, you may want to consider taking yourself to Las Vegas during one of the big Las Vegas knife shows, do some gambling and check out some knives.
Les -- That Broadwell fighter is super nice. Hopefully you'll have one on your table next time I see you!
Joe