Your choice of steel for Mules #6, 7, and 8

These_Nutz · Mar 7, 2009

3V im waiting for this one and hoping its soon i think it will be one of the most popular Mules.I want to convex one and make it an EDC.
I wonder if there could ever be the chance of using INFI seen as its only a limited run.
I have no idea what the relationships like between Busse and Spyderco but it be the best Mule i could think of id buy all 3.Or 1V if not.
CPM 154 sounds intresting although i was surprised to learn its not as tough as S30v but the ease of sharpening and even better stain resistance would make up for that.

MORIMOTOM · Mar 7, 2009

what are catra results, and the numbers associated with each steel meant to represent?

Kim Lau · Mar 7, 2009

I would wanna see one in Aogami and some CPM 154.

hardheart · Mar 8, 2009

MORIMOTOM said:
what are catra results, and the numbers associated with each steel meant to represent?

the catra tester is a machine that cuts silica impregnated cardstock, the numbers are the total cuts for blades made from each steel.

MORIMOTOM · Mar 8, 2009

hardheart said:
the catra tester is a machine that cuts silica impregnated cardstock, the numbers are the total cuts for blades made from each steel.

thx, figured it was something along those lines, but i didn't want to just assume.

so, s125v made 1200 cuts to s90v's 750? and 10v is even better?

my whole world of steel has been turned upside down!

MJF · Mar 8, 2009

I would have to go with, in order, 110V, 9V or 3V. 110V just seems like it's ridiculously hard, 9V's almost as wear resistant as 10V while at the same time a decent bit tougher. 3V's tough with decent hardness. Non Crucible, I'd have to throw my vote at Aogami, even though I don't know much about it.

Sal Glesser · Mar 8, 2009

Great thread, thanx much.

I've got a good list. I'l begin speaking with foundries on the next half dozen or so.

sal

MJF · Mar 8, 2009

No, thank you Sal. Thanks for giving us the opportunity to work with super steels in a blade which is thin enough to make decent use out of them!

bolen_g · Mar 10, 2009

I`ll vote for CPM 10 V, 9v doesn`t have a chance

eyeeatingfish · Mar 18, 2009

my vote would be for the tried and true 440C
Something on the more durable side, not some fancy new high hardness and edge retention steel.
An H1 I would definately buy too.

m10commander · Mar 19, 2009

I will go with CPM S110V.

bodankers · Mar 19, 2009

eyeeatingfish said:
my vote would be for the tried and true 440C
Something on the more durable side, not some fancy new high hardness and edge retention steel.
An H1 I would definitely buy too.

No disrespect intended but I think you might be missing the point. As far as I'm aware the Mule project was started to give us all an idea of how a lot of the newer or lesser known steels perform.
Most users are more than familiar with 440c's characteristics.

eyeeatingfish · Mar 19, 2009

indeed. didnt realize the new steals part of it.
Well that being said I think it should be done in H1 then.

Josh K · Mar 19, 2009

eyeeatingfish said:
my vote would be for the tried and true 440C
Something on the more durable side, not some fancy new high hardness and edge retention steel.
An H1 I would definately buy too.

The Mule project is to get people to use newerish steels that haven't had much widespread use. M4/S90V/52100 and now ZDP-189.

m10commander said:
I will go with CPM S110V.

Already did S90V. S110V is just a further progression of that but even harder to manufacture.

eyeeatingfish said:
indeed. didnt realize the new steals part of it.
Well that being said I think it should be done in H1 then.

H1 is out due to difficulties putting a full flat grind on it.

eyeeatingfish · Mar 19, 2009

Josh K said:
H1 is out due to difficulties putting a full flat grind on it.

Why would it be so hard to put such a grind in H1? Some of the salt fixed blades have all sorts of grinds. Its not even that hard of a steel as I understand, especially compared to some of the more exotic ones.

Nikokurausu · Mar 19, 2009

3V
Super Blue
A2

INFI would be outstanding if possible.

Josh K · Mar 19, 2009

eyeeatingfish said:
Why would it be so hard to put such a grind in H1? Some of the salt fixed blades have all sorts of grinds. Its not even that hard of a steel as I understand, especially compared to some of the more exotic ones.

H1 isn't a hardened steel. It work hardens as it's ground and sharpened. The edges of H1 blades have tested out to the high sixty's rc (68-69) while the spines test to a mid fifty (55-56). This makes it a very durable steel, while still retaining an good edge.

The reason you can't do it, is because the more you grind it the harder it gets. Full flat grinds are done first one side, then the other. By the time you'd finish the first side, the entire blade would be hardened, and you've run through belts on the other side trying to finish it.

Hollow grinds are done all in one pass, so the it hardens but the grind is already done.

I suggested laser cutting.... but I think it got shot down for some reason.

If you look at all the H1 blades, all the grinds are of the hollow type, including the swedges.

cotdt · Oct 1, 2009

I would like to see the following Mules

1. CPM 3V, 63 rc
2. AEB-L, 63 rc
3. Hitachi Super Blue, 63 rc
4. CPM 10V, 63 rc
5. S5, 62 rc
6. CPM S35VN, 62 rc
7. Uddeholm Vancron 40, 62 rc

It'll be nice to get a Mule in NiTinol too. I would like to see the hardness pushed, since these Mules are meant to be test blades Spyderco's reputation is not on the line if blades fail. Not interested in commonly available knife steels like 154CM and D2.