your opinion on how strong a folder should be.

You compare this knife to a budget folder, is this a budget fixed blade? If so were can I get one!!!
If you're having to baton with a folder, chances are your blade length is around 3.5 maybe 4 inches (excluding the Cold Steel offerings that have 5 inches of blade or longer). That means the closed length of the folder is around 5 inches. You can get a fixed blade around 7 inches with a blade length of 3.5 to 4 inches. All you're sacrificing is two inches of length in that fixed blade, but you get in return a stronger blade for batoning.

Also, if you're batoning, chances are you're hiking/camping, etc where many laws actually allow you to carry fixed blades.

harkanto1.jpg
This is 7 inches over all with a blade length of 3.5 inches from tip to sharpening choil. It's also 3/16 thick. You won't find many budget minded folders with 3/16 bar stock.
 
No it's not a budget knife, but I was just saying you can find fixed blades that pack a lot of blade into a small package. BUT, there are several custom knife makers that post on these forums that do make fixed blades that are priced friendly.

That one I posted is definitely not budget. It's 325. ;)
 
I personally think a folder should be as strong as possible without hindering it's design or comfort.
Though I guess the closest thing to a level to me would to be at least as strong as a Buck 110.
 
How strong should a defensive folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

How strong should a paper slicer folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

Repeat ad nauseam.
 
How strong should a defensive folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

How strong should a paper slicer folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

Repeat ad nauseam.

Plus 1.
 
I have to say here that if you are looking at something with which you would be batoning on a regular basis....much wiser to
get something which is made with that purpose in mind. Your folder might survive the one-off batoning but not the best tool for it....either blade-wise or the locking mechanism-wise. I'm not even considering the price comparison point, since it's all
subjective. But then, even the "strength" of a folder is also subjective.....I think you have to ask yourself...'what job is your
blade gonna do for you....and will it hold up to it?'
 
How strong should a defensive folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

How strong should a paper slicer folder be?

As strong as possible without compromising the designed handling characteristics.

Repeat ad nauseam.

Plus 2.
 
It's not that difficult to baton with a folder, you just don't engage the lock. Not really helpful to the strength question though.

I prefer hatchets myself. ;)
 
I don't consider a folder strong unless:

1. The blade is thick and stiff enough that I can't bend it with my fingers or by applying pressure to it sideways.
2. It can withstand reasonable prying.
3. I can exert full strength on the blade while cutting.
4. It can withstand light batoning.

Andy
 
If I can whittle wood regularly without issues, it's strong enough:thumbup:. While I can imagine up some fantasy scenario about needing to pry a door open or something, I figure it would be simpler to conceal carry a small prybar in a kydex sheath(i.e. my Strider WP-C).
 
If I can whittle wood regularly without issues, it's strong enough:thumbup:. While I can imagine up some fantasy scenario about needing to pry a door open or something, I figure it would be simpler to conceal carry a small prybar in a kydex sheath(i.e. my Strider WP-C).

I don't think it's just about prying. Personally, I want my folder to be as strong as possible as long as it does not compromise cutting performance. However, what is acceptable is different among individuals. I have a heavy duty folder with me and although it doesn't slice as well as the slicer in my other pocket, it can still cut what needs to be cut. If it can be even stronger without being too heavy but will still cut what I need to cut, then I would be all for that. Not that I need to pry anything. It's just about the "better to have it and not need it......."

Additionally, I would associate strength with durability. If my folder is capable of taking abuse without damage, then I'd venture to say it would take reasonable use for longer than a folder that is of a lighter construction.

I also find that there's nothing that my slicer can cut that my HD knife can't cut. Albeit not as easily but will suffice.
 
If I can whittle wood regularly without issues, it's strong enough:thumbup:. While I can imagine up some fantasy scenario about needing to pry a door open or something, I figure it would be simpler to conceal carry a small prybar in a kydex sheath(i.e. my Strider WP-C).

I often find myself needing to do some light prying. This seems to coincide with being up a ladder and not having another more suitable tool handy. Yesterday I pried flashing, window edging, and a bent truss hangar, all using my custom Laconico folder, which is quite strong and well up to these tasks. It did the knife no damage, and the job got done without having to climb down from the ladder and go in search of a different tool.

I won't use the knife for heavier prying tasks more suitable for a small crowbar.

Andy
 
Strong enough to cut what needs cutting without any fuss.I've never had to baton with a folder.
 
Strong enough to cut what needs cutting without any fuss.I've never had to baton with a folder.

What about if you can get a folder that can cut what needs to be cut efficiently "without any fuss" and will still be strong enough to baton with? wouldn't you like one like that?

We'll just dispense with the "not gonna happen" answer since a couple decades ago we couldn't imagine what we have now. ;)
 
Farid's T1000 would be up to the task, but I still wouldn't make it a regular occurence.
 
I used my A100 to chisel out a door for a lockset once, I'd say that anyknife that can do that is as strong as I need. Actual cutting wise most folders are already tough enough, lock strength and scale to scale attachment are where it gets tricky in my experience.
 
hey guys i just wanted your opinion on how strong or how long a folders lock up should be or last.. for instance do you expect to do some heavy batoning with a folding knife to still have a solid lock up after you use it to baton? no side to side or up and down blade play.

has anybody batoning with there folder have it last with out blade play or do they all eventually end up having blade play.(non fixable blade play that is)

No Blade Play! Just start the folder with a light baton whack and disengage the lock. Hold the handle and use it to stabalize your blade as you baton through, the blade has become a wedge at this point. Both of these knives are fine and in service. They also cover the toughness and cost range from top to bottom.

Ontario Rat-1 on some pine & fairly soft deadwood

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XM-18 on old, replaced telephone pole tip section (very hard stuff)

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folders are a wrong tool for the job, unless it's designed purposely to handle batoning and chopping.

Like the Intimidator from Black Bear Knives. Granted, it's described as a folding camp knife.

http://www.blackbearknives.com/Intimidator.html

[video=youtube;NKHsj1Jp67k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKHsj1Jp67k[/video]
 
I can see a Black Bear Intimidator under the Christmas tree! :eek:

Not really, maybe Charlie Mike's tree though, it's a little too big for this old guy. :D
 
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