Your preferred sharpening angle on the Sebenza?

I have been going with a variable edge on mine. I keep the flat at about 30 and from the belly to the tip at about 40 (with a progression in between). I do a lot of tip work and piercing, so this combination works well for me and the knife.

I would suggest that there is no set answer to this question. I have always been a proponent of optimization through constant refinement.
 
I did some maths today and if it is correct the angle on my Sebenza Insingo is around 8 degrees per side.

As I said, I go as low as possible on my knives.
 
I use a sharp maker followed by stropping. However I did use a lanskey on my 25 once, but felt it was to aggressive. The 21's that have exclusively seen on the sharp maker and strops, will most likely not have to go back to crk, until their given to my son.
 
marthinus said:
I did some maths today and if it is correct the angle on my Sebenza Insingo is around 8 degrees per side.

As I said, I go as low as possible on my knives.
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I have gone pretty low on some knives, but my experience with angles below 30 on S30V and S35Vn were not what I'd call pleasant. What sort of uses does that edge see?
 
I use between a 25 and 20 on all my blades. A30 and above is way way to blunt for a edc. Edge geometry is most important to get adequate performance from your blade. I carry a two dot buck 112 old school 440c buck steel, can't hardly beat it Its at 20 I use it everyday. Held up well for 3 months.
 
buckman110 said:
I use between a 25 and 20 on all my blades. A30 and above is way way to blunt for a edc. Edge geometry is most important to get adequate performance from your blade. I carry a two dot buck 112 old school 440c buck steel, can't hardly beat it Its at 20 I use it everyday. Held up well for 3 months.
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30 degrees inclusive is pretty far from blunt. Are you talking "per side"?
 
Zeta33 said:
30 per side is very blunt but, I'm fairly certain unit meant inclusive, so 15 degrees per side.
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Indeed, I was referring to 30 inclusive. I'm a big proponent of proper geometry, and have experimented all the way down to sub-10 degrees inclusive (with ZDP-189) and found very few steels/heat treats that are anything but frustrating below 20 (inc) for the way I use a daily carry.

Vanadium carbide steels seem to do well at 30-40 inclusive depending on a host of factors (in *my* findings;))
 
Yeah I knew there was absolutely no chance you meant 30 per side. I really can't imagine any edge under 15-16 degrees inclusive being useful, day to day. Even those angles are just silly sharp and serve little purpose other than skinning free standing grapes for impressive youtube videos.

Edit: silly sharp*
 
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unit said:
I have gone pretty low on some knives, but my experience with angles below 30 on S30V and S35Vn were not what I'd call pleasant. What sort of uses does that edge see?
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As of late, mainly softer things, not a lot of knotty work, but I agree, my experience with lower angles and higher carbide content steels are not too favorable.

Here is a small video I did to check.

[video=youtube;8nUNdSiaimg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nUNdSiaimg&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Details:

Thickness of the edge shoulder: .55mm (0.021 inch)
Divide by two to get the 'opposite' side of the angle you want to determine, therefore: .275 (0.0108 inch)

Length of edge: 2.07mm (0.081 inch) 'Hypotenuse'

Then apply some maths with SIN and one gets to 15.268 degrees inclusive.
Devide by two and you get 7.6 DPS.

trig-sin-cos-tan-divides.gif


Feel free to correct my maths if I am wrong. I do not work with maths as much as I use to.
 
Your math appears correct. The only possibly rub could be how the edge was ground. If it is convex, the effective angle could be quite a bit larger than the grind lines would indicate, the edge would be stronger also.

Either way, it appears you are testing and finding what works best for you...that is all that matters.
 
I do anything between 20 to 15 degree per side on the wicked edge... my current edc is a 25 and it's near 20 degree per side 40 inclusive
 
unit said:
Your math appears correct. The only possibly rub could be how the edge was ground. If it is convex, the effective angle could be quite a bit larger than the grind lines would indicate, the edge would be stronger also.

Either way, it appears you are testing and finding what works best for you...that is all that matters.
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You are correct, there can be a convex edge, I tried not to do one, but nothing is absolute when sharpening freehand while the mind wonders.

Testing and finding out what works for an individual in knives is all one can do IMO.
 
HwangJino said:
Anyone else have issues with the thumbstud getting in the way?
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Thumbstub not an issue for me on the Wicked Edge. I have not sharpened free hand since I got the WE so cannot comment on the thumbstub potentially getting in the way while free hand sharpening.
 
HwangJino said:
Anyone else have issues with the thumbstud getting in the way?
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It was when using the Edge Pro as it wouldn't allow for an equal hold on both sides, and in the case of the small Sebenza, would not allow the entire blade to reach across the table. Now using the WEPS, that's not an issue anymore. What's even better is on blades that the heel is close to the handle such as the Sebenza or a lot of Benchmades, I'll usually just remove the blade from the handle to get the stones back as far as they need to go without risk of damaging the handles.
 
rpnp said:
I do anything between 20 to 15 degree per side on the wicked edge... my current edc is a 25 and it's near 20 degree per side 40 inclusive
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I just got a wicked edge a few weeks ago and still breaking the stones. Do you use the clamp extension to get 15 dgs?
Thanks
 
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