YOUR sliciest folder?

Being a ZT guy I’d go for the 0562 Hinderer “slicer”.....right in the name :thumbsup:
 
Just out of curiosity, what is wrong with those lockups that made you dislike them?
Cause they ain't gonna last much longer. It took a month or so for them to move in that far. This cheap ti wears pretty fast and they are both rather thin causing lock rock. I honestly don't trust using for anything more than box cutting (they are light task knives though). The lockup isn't a major concern I dislike alot more about these and the combination of that makes me just embellish more than it needs to be. I guess I prefer better built/designed knives overall with solid lockup and fairly early lockup in comparison to these.
 
Mo2 Mo2

Thank you for posting the video.

They do look quite similar in terms of the blades.
I guess the liner lock version has better ergo, and thus you can apply force more easily than the thin Ti version and may feel it work better in slicing.

I agree that the handle of Ti Exskelibur is bit too thin and flimsy for the size.
It would be perfect for a small version with a front flipper tab.
 
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The cf framelocks seem to have more centring and lockup issues. I had a full ti framelock for quite a while and the lock wore into a sweet spot and essentially stopped wearing. My cf framelock I have right now had lock slip but somehow I fixed it. I know several people who have had the full ti framelock and only one has had a minor centring issue. You might be able to fix the lockrock on yours by cleaning off not only the tang lockface with a qtip with rubbing alcohol but also the lockbar lockface as well.

Here is a little tip that can majorly increase lock lifetime. You will notice that your ti framelocks will leave a little black smudge on the tang lockface where the two contact. On some knives leaving this smudge to become too excessive will eventually cause lockslip. On other folders leaving it has no adverse affects.

On those folders where it has no adverse affect just leave that black smudge of worn ti on the tang lockface and don’t clean it off. As long as it is there it does an excellent job reducing lock wear rate.
 
Does anyone know off the top their head what thickness a typical large Sebbie is behind the edge?

Here’s an interesting tidbit. miso2 miso2 you probably will be interested in this too. I can no longer find the literature on his site but I read from David Boye that virtually all hollow ground knives are ground wrong in his estimation. He grinds his hollow grinds in a unique way which is easier to demonstrate in disgram than to explain.

Ok the two semi-circles show the profile of the hollow grind when looked at from the front. The red V shows where the edge is ground. We are looking at the blades directly from the tip.

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You will see that unlike most hollow grinds David Boye’s hollow grind puts the edge where the two circles are the closest. Other hollow grinds let the two circles come away from eachother abit before it comes to the edge. You can actually feel this if you pinch either side of your hollow ground blade and drag your fingers down past the edge. You will feel that little bulge at the bottom where the grind gets wider just before the edge.

David Boye claims this is why his hollow grind style slices like few other hollow grinds.
 
I thought the other way around that the David Boye style is common.
It is because Chris Reeve claimed that he intentionally did his like the one on the left to increase the sharpening life of knife (the edge becomes thinner as you sharpen).

I need to compare Sebenza, Exskelibur, and a few other hollow ground knvies.
 
Cold Steel Code 4. I have knives with slicer grinds, but the steels on those don't seem to take as fine an edge. I have knives that will take equally fine edges, but they won't hold them for as long as the CTS-XHP on the Code 4. Hence, my strongest folder also happens to be my sliciest. Odd, huh?
 
An Opinel ... #8 being my favorite or maybe my Kershaw Leek ... very different knives but both are great slicers.
 
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