Zen and The Art of Knife Sharpening, or Freehand, or Systems , what's your poison?

Freehand or Sharpening System

  • Freehand

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  • System

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T., I have to disagree with you there (partly at least). While I agree that you can get an edge with just about any stone, the type of stone will help to determine how good the result is. Notice I said help; you're right that the skill comes from the user. The best freehand sharpener in the world isn't going to get a hair-popping edge using just a brick. Diamonds and water stones cut much faster than cheap silicon carbide stones, and water stones polish much better than diamonds. If you're using a slow cutting stone, it will take a long time to remove a significant amount of metal; therefore you'll get tired and won't be able to hold the angle as precisely. This isn't a big concern for a touch up though.
 
Originally posted by DarkReazon
Not to nitpick, but Starry Starry Night was Van Gogh. (so Picasso's paintbrush was even less likely to be responsible ;))

Regards,

Shaun.
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I stand corrected, I meant Van Gogh, My cousin would shoot me if she saw that,(she's an artist:rolleyes: )

Thanks for the correction.
 
Roadrunner, you get what you pay for, that's why I prefer Diamond,(EZ Lap), and Japanese Water stones, but what I meant was that even with Arkansas, or Carbide stones you get at the hardware store you can get a sharp edge, but you have to understand the mechanics behind it.

Everyone wants that magic bullet, that one sharpening system that you put the knife into and it comes out hair poppin' scary sharp.
It don't exist, every system out there has their shortcomings and plus sides, but freehand is the most forgiving, and requires the least set up, but once again the trade off is you have to understand how to do it.
 
Hmm, looks as if we have more of a misinterpretation of post than a difference of opinion. I've written your last statement almost verbatim in several threads prior to this; I just wanted to clarify that nice stones do help to get a finer edge. Misunderstanding on my part. Green polishing compound on a manila folder works well too; more on that later.
 
Freehand - almost all with a Eze-Lap diamond coated steel rod. Two or three light strokes on each side is all you need. I never polish an edge.
 
Used to do everything freehand, but lately have been sharpening everything on cardboard wheels. Takes no time at all and comes out very, very, sharp.
 
Mainly freehand, but I will admit to doing a little reprofiling on a Lansky system. Nothing like sitting in front of the TV and sharpening a knife freehand. It's almost like meditation.
 
anyone know a good book for knife sharpening how too's? im trying to master free hand and am not haveing all the luck in the world.
 
I will use the Lansky to re-profile an edge, but once it's done it's freehand all the way.
I've been very pleased with my Spyderco ProFiles. I mainly use the medium.
Hell Danbo, you use the same meditation method I do.:D Drives the Mrs. nuts.:)

Paul
 
i dont own a system and have been trying to become good freehand. I take to work a CRKT M16-14M. I have a box cutter for alot of the blade killing stuff but i go through about 3 blades a day on it. My CRKT takes on some tuff tasks as well and in turn becomes very dull. i tried sharpening it with my walmart stones last night and it seems anytime i try and sharpen anything it gets sharp more by mistake then tallent. I try to do what i have read in the sharpening walkthrough but can never achive a "scary sharp" it will take the hair off my arms pretty well but some of the blade seems sharper than the rest. or the blade will seem sharper cutting in one direction than in the other. can anyone explain some of this to me? I want to get really good at freehand but i have a hard time telling if im doing the right thing. what is a 10X loupe?
 
All of my convex grinds and most of my convex edge bevels are touched up by hand, using adhesive backed wet/dry paper, a mouse pad, and a stropping motion. The wet/dry makes everything quick and painless. Some of my convex ground knives only need a piece of rough cardboard for minor touch-ups.

My standard “V-ground” edge bevels get the SharpMaker 204. Yes, I can sharpen by hand, but the SharpMaker is just too efficient and simple to not use it.
 
This is something that greatly puzzles me.

Folks will spend up to $200+ for a sharpening system - which, admittedly, does the job well.

I just have to wonder why nobody ever recommends one of these:


38300.GIF

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38300

This one is just $40 +s/h and will sharpen any size knife or tool you have.


I have a 1x42 that I use for everything. You can buy many different grit belts as well as polishing belts, cork belts, and even felt and leather belts - which, do better for "power sharpening" than anything else I've ever seen.

When my around-the-house-EDC (a high-carbon steel puukko) goes dull, I just strop it on felt belt - loaded with green compound. I have completely stopped sharpening on stones.

IMO - taking a knife to a stone is overkill. You are removing too much material.

Sharpening is polishing, and polishing is done with good stropping.

If you can't afford a belt sander, get a cheap buffer and get a cardboard or leather wheel. You'll wonder why you never tried this before. We'll wonder what took you so long...;)

0.02
 
Just a quick note, but a stone takes too much metal off, but a belt sander/grinder doesnt? :eek: Seems to me that unless you are using really fine belts, it would be much easier to remove more metal with the belt sander/grinder.
 
Notice he said he mainly uses polishing belts, like felt, cork and leather. Thanks for the link too Pen, I may have to get one of those. Then I can really drive my roommate crazy
confused.gif
:D .
 
Originally posted by pendentive
This is something that greatly puzzles me.

Folks will spend up to $200+ for a sharpening system - which, admittedly, does the job well.

I just have to wonder why nobody ever recommends one of these:


38300.GIF

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38300

This one is just $40 +s/h and will sharpen any size knife or tool you have.


I have a 1x42 that I use for everything. You can buy many different grit belts as well as polishing belts, cork belts, and even felt and leather belts - which, do better for "power sharpening" than anything else I've ever seen.

When my around-the-house-EDC (a high-carbon steel puukko) goes dull, I just strop it on felt belt - loaded with green compound. I have completely stopped sharpening on stones.

IMO - taking a knife to a stone is overkill. You are removing too much material.

Sharpening is polishing, and polishing is done with good stropping.

If you can't afford a belt sander, get a cheap buffer and get a cardboard or leather wheel. You'll wonder why you never tried this before. We'll wonder what took you so long...;)

0.02
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I have one of these. I got a special leather belt and green compound for it. It works fine it's just not as fun as sharpening free hand.
 
I regurlarly strop my blades with an old belt and stropping compound. Sometimes I touch the edges up with a small fine dog bone. I never let 'em get really dull anyway.

All my quality knives are shaving sharp, so it works for me.
 
Originally posted by Danbo
Just a quick note, but a stone takes too much metal off, but a belt sander/grinder doesnt? Seems to me that unless you are using really fine belts, it would be much easier to remove more metal with the belt sander/grinder.
Click to expand...
Be sure to use a leather belt, or better yet, a felt belt. The belts are very soft, and with green compound it still removes steel, but not anywhere near as much as a stone.

Takes me less than 1 minute to sharpen a dull knife, of any kind of edge / bevel.

The best part about a belt sharpening is the free-handing. You can push hard, or soft, rotate your hand, hold the knife at different angles to the belt - all with different results. It's the ultimate in versatility.

1x30 and 1x42 belts cost anywhere from $.50 to $2.00 and there are still many places that carry them - from online shops, to Sears.

I only had to be told once - went right out and got the belt sander and have never looked back.

I spent enough time freehanding that I'm covered when out "in the field" or "in a pinch".

Still, though, I've found that if I just "power-strop" every 5 to 10 times I use a knife, I never have to put it to a stone.

I also don't stick my knives through sheetrock walls, or drop them on the pavement...:rolleyes:

But even if I did, I'm covered by having the belt sander to help me profile and sharpen in quickly.

Dan
 
I keep looking for a decent 1"X42" but my one fear is that it moves to fast,(might burn the edge), or don't come variable speed.

I do use the one at work, I'll use the smoother worn belts, turn em inside out than put em back on and use buffing or polishing compound to polish my edges.:cool:
 
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