ZT 0566 - Now: Flipperless, CF scale, drilled & lightened, improved pivot, & more

[blairtech]

I've put a few comments on here before, but never started a thread. Just to see if this works, and I can add the attachments... See what I did to my ZT 0566, and let me know what you think....? I loved the overall shape; similar to my favorite EDC, the Fantoni HB02, but just a little beefier, but had a few minor issues that I wanted to tinker with... Wanted it a hair lighter... Also like popping 'em open with the thumb-studs, so wanted to lose the 'flipper'... Went with a CF scale (for the heck of it)... And wanted it de-assisted too... AND- after seeing the teeny-tiny washer used (.312" diameter!) on the scale side, I wanted to remedy that too! I've read various comments about the action on this knife- from it flipping just fine, to not flipping worth a darn with the spring out, to it feeling like the blade is binding when applying pressure, to some that considered it totally useless because the detent was just ridiculous. If nothing else; I HIGHLY suggest to anyone owning this knife, or thinking about wanting it de-assisted, then at least toss the assist spring, JB Weld the cavity flush, and go with REAL bronze washers as I show you here. Mine is buttery smooth, and will stay that way years longer than a stock 566 with the mini-bearing on the left side! That tiny sucker's gonna wear fast and allow a lot more play If KAI/ZT had spent the milling time skeletonizing and lightening the liner and frame, INSTEAD of milling assist-spring cavities and having related spring issues, and used bigger washers as I show you how, then heck yeah... it would have been 'BUILT LIKE A TANK'. They also would have been consistently smooth, and bulletproof, from one to the next. Yada yada.. lemme know what ya' think...

 

[Random Dan]

Nice mods, how much weight did you remove?

 

[MEJ]

Nice work on the 0566, i realize this is off topic but how do you like the fantoni?

 

[Binalith]

cool. thanks for this. I got one of these on the way. might steal that washer idea. keeping the flipper though.

 

[BellaBlades]

Great job, and thanks for taking time to give detailed directions for folks.
While some of the stock 0566 fire great,
You went above and beyond to make yours custom.
I like the new washers.
Way to go.
Matt

 

[blairtech]

Nice mods, how much weight did you remove?

Thanks much. All the drilling was the most consuming part, and did not go quickly, and I kept trying to re-sharpen the cobalt bits on my little drill-doctor too. The 1/4" 4-flute cobalt center-drilling end mill bit, however, hogged out the pre-drilled holes like butter in the steel lock-frame side.

As I wrote on one of the pics, Rival Knifeworks Youtube video weighed in the 566 at 5.39 ounces, which I tend to believe more than KAI/ZT trying to round it down to the advertised 5.3 ounces. (although I could not weigh it accurately BEFORE the mods). Maybe somebody else can confirm??? For 'after' the mods, I stopped in at Frys's electronics yesterday, and used a couple different electronic scales they had on display, and tried to lift the lanyard w/titanium bead with my finger to weigh just the knife itself. So.... from 5.39 (?), to right around 4.80 = 'almost .6 ounces. Not a huge difference, but still nicer in-hand, and in-pocket, especially for nearly-EDC size knife. If KAI/ZT were to skeletonize the liner as I did, and lay out even better milled cavities than the counterbored holes I did on the steel frame-lock side, I bet they could reduce the weight a full ounce with no perceptive sacrifice in strength. Mine still feels as strong as before. No flexing or weakness what-so-ever. There's room to carefully mill out even more than I did, and the normal user will never miss it. Now, if you're prying open doors with the SWAT team, you may want it as solid as can be.. long answer.....

 

[blairtech]

Nice work on the 0566, i realize this is off topic but how do you like the fantoni?

Absolutely LOVE the Fantoni. I carry it all day, every day, during the work-week, and only got the 566 to have a big brother for the weekends. You MAY notice they're pretty similar... now.
The HB02 when I got it though, had a super-stiff detent that was hard to over-come, especially for a smallish knife in-hand. It IS ergonomically perfect though. So.... I did my thing.. took it apart, carefully chamfered the edge of the hole that the ball detent sits in, and made the little thumb relief cuts in the G10 to access the studs better. (think 1" diameter hole saw from Lowes, about $5.50, wrapped with double stick tape, then 150-220 sandpaper, spinning in a drill press. Hold the G10 up to it at the right angle... and there you go!.... SO.... very stiff out OOTB, but after a little handiwork, I will never sell or part with it. It's perfect. I ALMOST have bought a second back-up several times, since they're kinda hard to get here. After I got this one, my Benchmade 940/943's went on Ebay. The Fantoni just made the 943 feel like a cheaper toy. No offense... Benchmade still rocks for the money... they just weren't satisfying for me

 

[rpttrsn]

Blairtech,
Very nice work. I have finished, for now, making mine lighter. Have been playing with diff. lubes. The ZT 0566 now weighs in at 4.95 oz. Wanted to get it under 5 oz. You are right with the skeltonizing that the knife build feels the same only a bit lighter. Nice project and am happy I did it. I like the carbon fiber for the scale and am glad that you made the improvements to your knife. I'm waiting for the ZT 0770 and the ZT 0801 CF. Sent you a e-mail
Ron

 

[blairtech]

Blairtech,
Very nice work. I have finished, for now, making mine lighter. Have been playing with diff. lubes. The ZT 0566 now weighs in at 4.95 oz. Wanted to get it under 5 oz. You are right with the skeltonizing that the knife build feels the same only a bit lighter. Nice project and am happy I did it. I like the carbon fiber for the scale and am glad that you made the improvements to your knife. I'm waiting for the ZT 0770 and the ZT 0801 CF. Sent you a e-mail
Ron

Oh... that's just great Ron... Now I have to take mine apart again, and drill even more smaller holes to keep up with you. Where will it all end? Seriously, I think KAI/ZT is watching us... waiting until we get the whole lightening pattern perfected, and then they'll come out with the new lighter version I'm glad I did the work too. It's lighter, and has a much smoother and stronger pivot than the stock one ever will, and the CF scale adds a nice cool factor too. Slipperier than the G10, but I don't care.... Oh, I'll shoot you a couple washers soon.. Great job outa you too..

 

[blairtech]

Thanks a lot Matt... I just really like things that are well thought out, well built, and designed to last. I kinda did this (after rpttrsn started it.. to give credit due), to maybe help what seems like half of the people that write about their experience owning this knife. Some seem to bind a little, or are downright tough to deploy. It's a combination of the play between the blade hole and the pivot bolt, and the lack of a properly sized guide bushing on one side, and perhaps even some twisting forces exerted by the assist spring to the blade. Maybe this will help the few that were getting frustrated with the binding/lack of smoothness problem. It's so simple... big guide bushings and good lube or even white lithium grease like I use, and you've got a 566 that's as smooth as a Sebenza. Maybe some bought it just for the flipper action and the assist, but if it's causing problems for some, then it's not a good trade-off; especially for KAI/ZT getting mixed reviews on this model. A blade pivot and guide bushings is a simple thing to get right, and knives are a fairly competitive market, so why not build it to get great reviews from ALL that buy it? I KNOW there are better ways to do an assist, like a torsion bar, in-line with the blade. But what do I know? The speed-safe assist works okay.... for some. Others... not so much. Guess I'll quit rambling now. Hope the info helps anyone that needs it. Rock on, You're making some crazy cool scales there too Matt! Maybe I was impatient and just went with the plain CF, but next time I'll see what you have first :thumbup: Thanks Blair(tech)

 

[hazy]

Great looking mod!

That original washer really is small. Where is a good place to get those bronze washers? Also what is a good technique for filling in the liner with JB Weld? Feel free to PM me if its easier for you.

 

[blairtech]

Great looking mod!

That original washer really is small. Where is a good place to get those bronze washers? Also what is a good technique for filling in the liner with JB Weld? Feel free to PM me if its easier for you.

Thanks Hazy, and here's a couple tips for ya'.. First off though, here's a link to get the washers from usaknifemaker (they are EXACTLY the same thickness).. :
http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-kn...gs/washer-bronze-3-16-016-id-with-505-od.html

Now, as far as filling the cavities to provide a solid foundation... (also note, I didn't fill the entire area milled out for the spring, just the cavities near the pivot, and a little past perhaps toward the rear.) On the CF scale (or if you're doing the G10), I didn't actually use JB-weld, but regular 5 minute epoxy. Clean the area with alcohol so it sticks better. Over-fill the area with some mixed epoxy, as it will shrink as it dries. Better to over-fill, than to need a 2nd skim coat. Let sit overnight, then, using a new razor blade, held almost flat against the scale, and using a sawing motion, carefully level the over-fill even with the scale surface. This is a little tough on the fingers, but no pain... no gain ...
And on the liner.... I once again overfilled a little, mainly the pivot area, and a little more toward the rear, using the JB-weld this time, and I first did the side facing the G10; let set-up; and then over-fill the curved slot the same way on the blade-facing side. Over-fill, set overnight, razor-blade flush, check with any metal straight edge held up to a light for a true flat surface. Any un-even-ness may cause binding. Flatten with the razor blade, or fine sandpaper on a hard block, or even a sharpening stone to flatten on the steel liner. I did mine mostly with the razor blade, checked it with a steel straight-edge, and hit it with a spare small stone. The compressive strength of JB-weld, after curing for a day or two, will be more than you need to provide a support foundation for the bigger washer.
Finally, when re-assembling, using white lithium grease on a cotton swab, I'll coat the pivot bolt diameter, the blade pivot hole, and both sides of the washers as I assemble. That white fluorinated grease would also be great. I also have some good break-free lubricating oil that works well, but the oil tends to travel everywhere, and make a mess and collect dust and stuff, so I just prefer to use a good grease. It tends to last longer than oil, and stays more localized to wear you put it. But that's just me .. And don't forget a little Loctite on that final pivot screw! Flip the blade to distribute the grease evenly, snug the screw, flip the blade, snug the screw, etc..... and enjoy the buttery smoothness...
Please post if you fill the cavities and go with big washers and love the improvement! Maybe KAI/ZT will hear us... Have fun

 

[hazy]

Thanks Hazy, and here's a couple tips for ya'.. First off though, here's a link to get the washers from usaknifemaker (they are EXACTLY the same thickness).. :
http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-kn...gs/washer-bronze-3-16-016-id-with-505-od.html

Now, as far as filling the cavities to provide a solid foundation... (also note, I didn't fill the entire area milled out for the spring, just the cavities near the pivot, and a little past perhaps toward the rear.) On the CF scale (or if you're doing the G10), I didn't actually use JB-weld, but regular 5 minute epoxy. Clean the area with alcohol so it sticks better. Over-fill the area with some mixed epoxy, as it will shrink as it dries. Better to over-fill, than to need a 2nd skim coat. Let sit overnight, then, using a new razor blade, held almost flat against the scale, and using a sawing motion, carefully level the over-fill even with the scale surface. This is a little tough on the fingers, but no pain... no gain ...
And on the liner.... I once again overfilled a little, mainly the pivot area, and a little more toward the rear, using the JB-weld this time, and I first did the side facing the G10; let set-up; and then over-fill the curved slot the same way on the blade-facing side. Over-fill, set overnight, razor-blade flush, check with any metal straight edge held up to a light for a true flat surface. Any un-even-ness may cause binding. Flatten with the razor blade, or fine sandpaper on a hard block, or even a sharpening stone to flatten on the steel liner. I did mine mostly with the razor blade, checked it with a steel straight-edge, and hit it with a spare small stone. The compressive strength of JB-weld, after curing for a day or two, will be more than you need to provide a support foundation for the bigger washer.
Finally, when re-assembling, using white lithium grease on a cotton swab, I'll coat the pivot bolt diameter, the blade pivot hole, and both sides of the washers as I assemble. That white fluorinated grease would also be great. I also have some good break-free lubricating oil that works well, but the oil tends to travel everywhere, and make a mess and collect dust and stuff, so I just prefer to use a good grease. It tends to last longer than oil, and stays more localized to wear you put it. But that's just me .. And don't forget a little Loctite on that final pivot screw! Flip the blade to distribute the grease evenly, snug the screw, flip the blade, snug the screw, etc..... and enjoy the buttery smoothness...
Please post if you fill the cavities and go with big washers and love the improvement! Maybe KAI/ZT will hear us... Have fun

Thanks for the detailed reply, I'm gunna give this a shot when I get a new 0566.

 

[Spyder328]

Awesome, so awesome :thumbup: I'm really glad to see that you went ahead and did it :thumbup:

 

[blairtech]

oh... I should have given you this link on the small Fantoni too..... It's identical to my HB02, except the one in the video was a special limited version with S125V blade steel, and had a ball bearing pivot! Wish I had one of those too, but not for the $400-$450 when they were available. Find one NOW, and they'd probably be $500-$600 (just guessing). Also, there was a version sold by Beretta, the Beretta William Harsey design.... Designed by Harsey, made by Fantoni, sold by Beretta; sometimes available on Ebay (usually overpriced), as the Fantoni is $225 from KnifeArt, and the Beretta had a satin finish blade (NOT stone-wash like the Fantoni), and the Beretta didn't have the excellent wide 45 degree chamfering all around the G10 scales either. (the Beretta still has a small chamfer, but not as nice and wide and comfy as the Fantoni).... anyway, I ramble! Here's the same Fantoni as mine, but with the badass S125V blade, just to give you an idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9ZtaPU3mB8
Yeah, 'spensive little dude, but really, really nice. Small Sebenza really has nothing over the HB02 (at least that I would need/want).. although it may deploy easier OOTB ....

 

[eb1118]

I removed the assist bar on my 0350 and installed larger washers as well. It is more solid, and much smoother.

 

[blairtech]

I removed the assist bar on my 0350 and installed larger washers as well. It is more solid, and much smoother.

Amen to that... Another believer that has seen the light
And you know... it's gonna stay that way... a WHOLE lot longer than it would have with the wear on that stock baby washer, and the draggy spring...
NO binding or blade play for us... good job buddy!
I really do love my 566 too, now that it's built right. I'm pretty picky about the shape, the ergos, the blade..

 

[sector2]

I removed the assist bar on my 0350 and installed larger washers as well. It is more solid, and much smoother.

im interested to know if you or anyone else has done this with a zt300

 

[sector2]

I removed the assist bar on my 0350 and installed larger washers as well. It is more solid, and much smoother.

im interested to know if you or anyone else has done this with a zt300

 

[wave1911]

Great work! I love this knife just don't like the weight and think it could be smoother. Looks like you just helped me solve those issues.