ZT 808 exploded

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Every knife made by Flávio Ikoma, korth as well as most Todd better knives. Flávio and korth invented ikbs and have been using cold rolled races in titanium for over a decade without issue. Again there is a difference between potential problems and real ones.

Yep about two knife makers....People just like me saw this as a potential FLAW and corrected it.

“This seems like an improvement for a number of reasons. Firstly the washers will provide added integrity since their hardness is more similar to the bearings. If they contacted the titanium handle slabs directly wear would be uneven. “

 
Yep about two knife makers....People just like me saw this as a potential FLAW and corrected it.

“This seems like an improvement for a number of reasons. Firstly the washers will provide added integrity since their hardness is more similar to the bearings. If they contacted the titanium handle slabs directly wear would be uneven. “


Oh nice! You posted a picture of a knife you own. How do you feel about that internal stop pin? That would be way more of a concern to me than the ball bearings. That and also owning anything that says CRKT on it. What are the chances that they mucked up that design? Far more than any bearings on a ZT.
 
I haven't replaced the washers on my 200. I would be surprised if anyone has replaced the washers with bearings.

What I can share is my experience with owning a couple 200s. I like a stiff detent. The 200 does not have one. The knife did not flip well for me. I sold the first one I owned. I bought a second one a year or so latter after they were discontinued. Flipped the same as the first: not good. I took it apart and polished the washers and around the pivot on the liners. I also bent the lockbar in to give more pressure on the detent. This worked quite well. The blade now flies out because of the smoother surface around the pivot and also the much more stiff detent.

After much research into 200, I had a plan of mods ex: blade regrind - remove rhomb on false edge for better penetration, reshape handle for better grip too big belly and area near thumb studs sticks too far out of pocket, take apart polish washers. but after receiving new one with it perfectly centered, zero play blade, with tight fit and finish I'm no longer in a hurry to mess with it, plus don't want to lose DLC coating! Sometimes blade flips open all the way sometimes only 2/3, is it worth messing with it? No longer so sure!

PS pushing liner lock with dent ball into the blade would make tighter lock and slower blade deployment. ZT0200 blade glides on the dent ball, unlike my Benchmade CQC-7 which doesn't have dent ball in the liner. I can flick my wrist and blade just flies out, because there is no dent ball to resist it! I can't do same with ZT0200!
 
I DONT own that knife, nor would I due to the internal stop pin design. My point being people beside me are seeing a potential problems with bearings rideing on titanium and addressing it and correcting it..
PURPLDC said "”Again there is a difference between potential problems and real ones”.
Seeing and correcting "potential problems" BEFORE they cause problems KEEPS them from being Problems. But you guys seem to see no logic in that.




Oh nice! You posted a picture of a knife you own. How do you feel about that internal stop pin? That would be way more of a concern to me than the ball bearings. That and also owning anything that says CRKT on it. What are the chances that they mucked up that design? Far more than any bearings on a ZT.
 
After much research into 200, I had a plan of mods ex: blade regrind - remove rhomb on false edge for better penetration, reshape handle for better grip too big belly and area near thumb studs sticks too far out of pocket, take apart polish washers. but after receiving new one with it perfectly centered, zero play blade, with tight fit and finish I'm no longer in a hurry to mess with it, plus don't want to lose DLC coating! Sometimes blade flips open all the way sometimes only 2/3, is it worth messing with it? No longer so sure!

PS pushing liner lock with dent ball into the blade would make tighter lock and slower blade deployment. ZT0200 blade glides on the dent ball, unlike my Benchmade CQC-7 which doesn't have dent ball in the liner. I can flick my wrist and blade just flies out, because there is no dent ball to resist it! I can't do same with ZT0200!

I would say don't mess with it. The 200 is one knife that you may need a little wrist action to get it open after you get it started.

And no, increasing the detent friction doesn't make it less smooth. The object is to keep the retention in tact until you can build up enough energy to break the detent, sending the blade out even faster with the built up energy.
 
All solid advice on the 200 in my opinion!
You mentioned that you bent the lockbar in to give more pressure on the detent.....
Again solid advice and it makes me wonder how many people dont even think about trying this before boring out a detent hole.

I haven't replaced the washers on my 200. I would be surprised if anyone has replaced the washers with bearings.

What I can share is my experience with owning a couple 200s. I like a stiff detent. The 200 does not have one. The knife did not flip well for me. I sold the first one I owned. I bought a second one a year or so latter after they were discontinued. Flipped the same as the first: not good. I took it apart and polished the washers and around the pivot on the liners. I also bent the lockbar in to give more pressure on the detent. This worked quite well. The blade now flies out because of the smoother surface around the pivot and also the much more stiff detent.
 
I DONT own that knife, nor would I due to the internal stop pin design. My point being people beside me are seeing a potential problems with bearings rideing on titanium and addressing it and correcting it..
PURPLDC said "”Again there is a difference between potential problems and real ones”.
Seeing and correcting "potential problems" BEFORE they cause problems KEEPS them from being Problems. But you guys seem to see no logic in that.

Makes sense to correct potential problems before they happen. But like Purple said, IKBS has been around for a decade running on cold rolled Ti races. It has never been a problem! They add steel races so people like you will still buy the knives! :D
 
"""Oh nice! You posted a picture of a knife you own. How do you feel about that internal stop pin? That would be way more of a concern to me than the ball bearings. That and also owning anything that says CRKT on it. What are the chances that they mucked up that design? Far more than any bearings on a ZT. """

Wait, are you saying the internal stop pin is a potential flaw?
I didnt think we were aloud to point out potential flaws or worries that have no sound evidence of potential failure.........lol
 
Yep about two knife makers....People just like me saw this as a potential FLAW and corrected it.

“This seems like an improvement for a number of reasons. Firstly the washers will provide added integrity since their hardness is more similar to the bearings. If they contacted the titanium handle slabs directly wear would be uneven. “


Not sure how three examples gets reduced to two or how just because i only provide three examples that means those are te only ones. My job isnt to provide you with the information you should read before typing. You are the one who chooses to read the title of a book and decide to do a report based only on it. I didnt say the steel inserts dont have a purpose. I said it wasnt needed. But seeing as you choose to only scratch the surface to crown yourself an expert i dont expect anything of value to compute with you. Take steel lockbar inserts. Some view it as an improvement. Some feel it is pointless. The truth is they have benefits and drawbacks just like anything else. Steel inserts for bearings are not required at all. Its a product of the peanut gallery worrying about what ifs and ignoring everything but their own opinion. Again if it was a problem surely a knife would exist demonstrating the problem right? And this time provide pics that are not of a cheap broken clone of no relevance. The bottom line is you are making a mountain of a mole hill. Just like stupid lock arguments. Who cares if one lock can hold 250 pounds and the other 500 if neither are going to see any more than ten in real use.
 
" ignoring everything but their own opinion. """ yup, you do allot of that here.

Look genius you are the one who comes into threads challenging opinions and well known facts with nothing more than an i said so. And when it is proven the subject is above your understanding you resort to childish word manipulations and juvenile " no im not you are" drama. And all the "proof" you provide is complete and total conjecture. This is a community. Its not something you join and immediately start trying to one up established members with your lack of expertise.
 
"""Oh nice! You posted a picture of a knife you own. How do you feel about that internal stop pin? That would be way more of a concern to me than the ball bearings. That and also owning anything that says CRKT on it. What are the chances that they mucked up that design? Far more than any bearings on a ZT. """

Wait, are you saying the internal stop pin is a potential flaw?
I didnt think we were aloud to point out potential flaws or worries that have no sound evidence of potential failure.........lol

A picture proving a failure as shown in the picture of the broken southard qualifies. Because i said so and swapping in pics of broken inferior clones does not.
 
If I would of posted that link as proof in my argument I would have no doubt gotten in response....

“”””You post one picture of a Spyderco Southard blade failure and you just assume all Spyderco Southard blades will have the same failure? Just because one failed due to a heat treat issue dosent mean all of them will!.....Again with your speculations!”””

Only because you would take a potential problem and try to push it as an inevitable one and make snide child like remarks whilst doing it. Its not always what you say but how you say it.
 
Well if you actually proved anything instead of just telling us how big of a knife pro you are and how everything is above my understanding....and when called out, all you say is “I cant explain that here because you just wouldn't understand.... you prove absolutely nothing and wont even get involved with the discussion except to say “you dont know what your talking about!” wa wa wa...
You seem to think you post count makes you a knife expert.

I read your post and you offer very little nothing but allot of ….FU*K YOUs, and kiss my as* And you suck, ect....How many post do I have to comment on simply by sticking my head in and cussing does it take to make me a knife expert like you?:rolleyes:

Look genius you are the one who comes into threads challenging opinions and well known facts with nothing more than an i said so. And when it is proven the subject is above your understanding you resort to childish word manipulations and juvenile " no im not you are" drama. And all the "proof" you provide is complete and total conjecture. This is a community. Its not something you join and immediately start trying to one up established members with your lack of expertise.
 
Well, my ZT 0801 has no wear from the bearings.
None.

Of course, I only keep the pivot tight enough to have zero blade play.
I don't grab a cheater bar and attempt to grind the bearings through the scales. ;)
 
Cool, I really like the look of the 808 and 801, very elegant but yet handsome at the same time.
Well, my ZT 0801 has no wear from the bearings.
None.

Of course, I only keep the pivot tight enough to have zero blade play.
I don't grab a cheater bar and attempt to grind the bearings through the scales. ;)
 
Cool, I really like the look of the 808 and 801, very elegant but yet handsome at the same time.

They are good knives.
The only complaint is that the pivot tends to loosen with use; I just tighten it back up (torx bit held between forefinger and thumb, and lightly tightened), but others may like Loctite.
 
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