ZT CTS204P weird

G

Glenn056

Joined
Nov 26, 2015
Messages
563
Hi everyone. So i washed my CTS204p blade after cutting some tape on cardboard boxes by scrubbing using dishwasher scrub and some soap. It was shaving sharp before and after just some tape and the washing now it just tears through paper😞 is this a heat treat problem?

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Not to mention, I noticed some flat spots on the blade when it was practically brand new😞... And had not cut anything hard except slicing paper. It was brand new by the way, not used.

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Was it the factory edge? Sounds like the initial "sharp" edge was a wire edge, which is very thin (therefore feels sharp) and deforms easily. Also, the factory edge could be heat damaged from grinding. Sometimes you have to remove the damaged layer of steel by a couple of rounds of sharpening to obtain a stable edge.
Hope this helps.


Miso
 
The green Scotch-Brite side of a sponge can be rather hard on an edge. You probably dulled it using that.

For tape residue, use some rubbing alcohol, acetone or similar and a scrap piece of cloth.
For tree sap, use peanut butter or other long chain fatty oil.
 
Thank you Mr Bill, I have sharpened it back to shaving sharpness and will give it another try. Really appreciate your valuable input :)

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Good suggestions on how to remove stuff from the blade. Although if you use it on food you will want to use soap and hot water. Use the soft side of the sponge or a towel. Getting rid of that initial factory edge is also a valid explanation for many edge issues. The 204p on my 0562cf has been going strong about 1 1/2 years. It responds very well to ceramic rod touch ups.
 
Good additional info cray.

One thing that I find that works well, is to wet some paper towels, enough that when folded it is around 1/4" thick and hold this on the corner of your sink or counter and slide the flat side of your knife from heel to tip with gently putting a bit more pressure on the edge side of the flat.

This will allow you to exert more pressure near the edge without risking your fingers.
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Also, as Miso stated, the factory edge may have been slightly overheated due to powered sharpening.
This alone could be your issue. No way to know other than use it.

Good luck and Keep us informed.
 
craytab said:
Good suggestions on how to remove stuff from the blade. Although if you use it on food you will want to use soap and hot water. Use the soft side of the sponge or a towel. Getting rid of that initial factory edge is also a valid explanation for many edge issues. The 204p on my 0562cf has been going strong about 1 1/2 years. It responds very well to ceramic rod touch ups.
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Using hot water isn't necessary. if you're washing by hand it probably wouldn't be hot enough to kill microbes.

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I think he was talking about my suggestion of acetone or other harsh and non food-safe chemicals.
 
Superdave1 said:
Using hot water isn't necessary. if you're washing by hand it probably wouldn't be hot enough to kill microbes.
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Superdave1 said:
I understood , cold or hot tap water suffices.
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I like using Hot-Hot Tap water. The metal absorbs the heat and will help dry the blade and or other components. This is even more important with high carbon steels. Plenty of manufacturers and makers suggest this, Esee as an example. Also, oils become more viscous the hotter the water. Combine that with soap and they wash away easier. Unless I'm drinking it or need it cold (like making pastry crust) I prefer the water I'm using to be warm to hot. :)
 
I've found the best way to remove tape and residue is Zippo lighter fluid.

Wet the part you need cleaned (or the whole blade, careful not to get any into the pivot area), let it sit for a few seconds, and wipe down with a paper towels. You might have to do this twice if your blade is really gunked up. Any remaining fluid evaporates on its own. Rinse in warm water, dry, and oil if necessary.

I've been using this method for years and it's never failed me.
 
Wow thanks alot guys! Just to add on: my sharpening time with it was pretty positive, seemed easy enough without being abnormally so, but i can tell i sharpens longer than your regular 440C or BD1, so i guess the heat treat wasn't too soft like i have initially assumed. Took a nice edge. So i guess i would probably wash my blades using a toothbrush with some dishwashing soap, should be alright right? Since it would be easier to control to try not to mess the edge. Thanks again everyone!

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craytab said:
I like using Hot-Hot Tap water. The metal absorbs the heat and will help dry the blade and or other components. This is even more important with high carbon steels. Plenty of manufacturers and makers suggest this, Esee as an example. Also, oils become more viscous the hotter the water. Combine that with soap and they wash away easier. Unless I'm drinking it or need it cold (like making pastry crust) I prefer the water I'm using to be warm to hot. :)
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I find that oil becomes LESS viscous when warm.....

I also dont need to oil stainless blades. I oil the pivots.
I understand the drying point and do that as well, but I dry the blade anyway.



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Glenn056 said:
Wow thanks alot guys! Just to add on: my sharpening time with it was pretty positive, seemed easy enough without being abnormally so, but i can tell i sharpens longer than your regular 440C or BD1, so i guess the heat treat wasn't too soft like i have initially assumed. Took a nice edge. So i guess i would probably wash my blades using a toothbrush with some dishwashing soap, should be alright right? Since it would be easier to control to try not to mess the edge. Thanks again everyone!

Sent from the BatComputer
Click to expand...

So long as the hard bristles of the toothbrush don't directly contact the cutting edge you should be fine. I get tape off by putting rubbing alcohol on the blade and on a paper towel. I wipe it down. If there is gunk on the edge bevel I use a stropping motion to get the edge. This ensures I get the edge without dulling it or cutting the paper towel.

Basically you just don't want to contact the cutting edge with what ever you use. Maybe others have a different technique.
 
Superdave1 said:
I find that oil becomes LESS viscous when warm.....

I also dont need to oil stainless blades. I oil the pivots.
I understand the drying point and do that as well, but I dry the blade anyway.
Click to expand...

Yup, I got that backwards (see, it's not that hard to admit when you make a mistake:thumbup:). I'm not talking about putting oil on a blade. I'm talking about getting oil off a blade. You know, with soap and hot water. Like during food prep. You do wash you knives after cutting foods with oil in them correct? For this, as I described above, hot soap and water with a soft sponge works well. Then, with the blade hot from the hot water, it drys much better/quicker because it is hot. Like say you miss a bit of water when you hand dry your blade, if it is hot, that water will evaporate quickly and not leave spots or corrode (because it evaporates). This is particularly useful with carbon blades. Esee recommends you not take the scales off the blades to clean them. Just wash the whole blade in hot soapy water. Dry it and let the blade sit while the heat evaporates any moisture you might have missed.
 
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craytab said:
Yup, I got that backwards (see, it's not that hard to admit when you make a mistake [emoji106]). I'm not talking about putting oil on a blade. I'm talking about getting oil off a blade. You know, with soap and hot water. Like during food prep. You do wash you knives after cutting foods with oil in them correct? For this, as I described above, hot soap and water with a soft sponge works well. Then, with the blade hot from the hot water, it drys much better/quicker because it is hot. Like say you miss a bit when you hand dry your blade, if it is hot, that water will evaporate quickly and not leave spots or corrode (because it evaporates).
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yes I do wash or wipe my blade after cutting food, I don't overthink it, they're not porous. I'm not afraid of getting a miniscule bit of oil/lube, left over residue fm wd40, nor lighter fluid,acetone etc on cut food that may be on the blade. I don't have gunky pivots either. it's not rocket surgery. 😁

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NJBillK said:
The green Scotch-Brite side of a sponge can be rather hard on an edge. You probably dulled it using that.

For tape residue, use some rubbing alcohol, acetone or similar and a scrap piece of cloth.
For tree sap, use peanut butter or other long chain fatty oil.
Click to expand...

use zippo lighter fluid
 
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