ZT's BlackWashing

I've sliced through a handful of pepsi cans to put my beer can in, I used warm soap and water to rub off the aluminum, and I've also used oil I had laying around for my guns and that too helped rub off the aluminum. It takes a little bit of time say maybe 5-10 minutes but works everytime.
 
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I'm confused now. So softer materials can damage and scratch harder materials? So then aluminum anodization (Type II and III) being a different process than DLC filming is really basically the same. :confused:
Wow...

How many knives do you see with DLC coated blades that are scratched? That happens with everyday use. So is everyone out there with a DLC coated blade using it to cut sand paper, diamonds and precious gems? Maybe whittling concrete? And why does a knife dull when cutting softer materials than it? It shouldnt right? By that way of thinking NO knife should have a scratched blade ever. Because if one item made of a softer material cant damage the harder then it would not cut anything unless it was softer than the knife. And knowing that, whatever your cutting being softer than the knife should never scratch the blade. So how does it happen? How would a softer material damage or wear the hardened edge of your cutting tool? To be clear what I said was that it was possible that the can could have removed the coating creating a scratch because there are variables that can effect the coatings abrasion resistance. Hardness of the actual coating is only one of them.

You have to remember DLC coating is just that, a coating. It gets bonded to the steel underneath it. If that bond is not strong the hardness of the coating doesn't matter. DLC is a very thin coating. You can break through it. Thats why its called scratch resistant. Not scratch proof. Especially if we are talking about a hard coating that is deposited on to a softer material and that coating is only a few microns thick. Water is softer than rock but we all know or at least should know that water over time will erode rock. You can sharpen a razor with a piece of scrap denim but denim is softer than the blades of a razor so why does it strop the steel? And there is no other harder material than a diamond right? So if you have a diamond that is the hardest material known how is it that we have been able to precisely cut and polish diamonds into jewelry? Sure you have to use diamond to cut and polish diamond but if they are the same hardness shouldn't they just bounce off each other? or are their other variables that are introduced so that one diamond substrate is more effective at being abrasive than the other?

This all happens because other variables factor in. One is velocity. A lead bullet is softer than steel plate but if the steel is thin enough and the lead bullet is traveling fast enough it will damage the steel plate sometimes going straight through it. How about a water jet machine? They use water pumped out at very high pressure and it will cut straight through steel. Again there are always factors that can make something that at first seems illogical very possible. And if soft materials can scratch harder ones, then the companies responsible for coating millions of blades over the years have some explaining to do over the trillions of scratches out there.
 
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Unrelated to the Black Washing of the metals what's the best way to get that "worn" look for the G10 scale side (short of substituting another worn titanium black washed scale)?

Another model. 0560BW. Stonewashed DLC. Very cool

EC47E45E-F5D0-4A6F-BA68-628938483858-599-000000F826F34F8C_zps2bd69dd8.jpg


4F658F0B-BD1C-446A-8BFA-37AABEE70F2D-599-000000F8424AA17E_zpsc2d483c9.jpg
 
Unrelated to the Black Washing of the metals what's the best way to get that "worn" look for the G10 scale side (short of substituting another worn titanium black washed scale)?


there isnt a whole lot you cant can do except for paint which I dont recommend. The reason you get that contrast on the other side of the handle is the titanium is coated and then they sand the highs exposing the titanium underneath so that the ridges and peaks of the machining have that contrast. The black g10 is the same color all the way through so the only way to get it to look somewhat like the other side is to paint it grey and then sand the highs. Even then, it would be the opposite of the titanium side with silver low areas and black peaks. You could have a custom scale make with G10 laminated with alternating color layers but even then you need someone who could replicate the pattern they cnc into it. Most of the aftermarket scales are shaped by hand and have limited textures. what would look cool though would be either laminated G10 with alternating colors or even just regular black g10 with the chipped flint look that jens anso made popular. It would compliment the look of the worn blackwash finish.
 
Not all black blades are dlc, I also doubt every manufacturer's dlc is equal. All I can add to this conversation is my experience with ZT dlc, I have a 0350 that has probably 8 months of hard farm use on it... All "scratches" clean right off no problem.
 
I too, if getting a black washed blade/ti slab would want a scale to "match"...the best I could come up with was lightning strike carbon fiber maybe.

On a similar note to the OP- could you wash an anodized ti slab for a similar effect? I'm thinking a bright blue ti 0560 washed to match sculpted blue twill scale. I just don't know how anodizing would hold up (?).
 
How many knives do you see with DLC coated blades that are scratched? That happens with everyday use. So is everyone out there with a DLC coated blade using it to cut sand paper, diamonds and precious gems? Maybe whittling concrete? And why does a knife dull when cutting softer materials than it? It shouldnt right? By that way of thinking NO knife should have a scratched blade ever. Because if one item made of a softer material cant damage the harder then it would not cut anything unless it was softer than the knife. And knowing that, whatever your cutting being softer than the knife should never scratch the blade. So how does it happen? How would a softer material damage or wear the hardened edge of your cutting tool? To be clear what I said was that it was possible that the can could have removed the coating creating a scratch because there are variables that can effect the coatings abrasion resistance. Hardness of the actual coating is only one of them. You have to remember DLC coating is just that, a coating. It gets bonded to the steel underneath it. If that bond is not strong the hardness of the coating doesn't matter. DLC is a very thin coating. You can break through it. Thats why its called scratch resistant. Not scratch proof. Especially if we are talking about a hard coating that is deposited on to a softer material and that coating is only a few microns thick. Water is softer than rock but we all know or at least should know that water over time will erode rock. You can sharpen a razor with a piece of scrap denim but denim is softer than the blades of a razor so why does it strop the steel? And there is no other harder material than a diamond right? So if you have a diamond that is the hardest material known how is it that we have been able to precisely cut and polish diamonds into jewelry? Sure you have to use diamond to cut and polish diamond but if they are the same hardness shouldn't they just bounce off each other? or are their other variables that are introduced so that one diamond substrate is more effective at being abrasive than the other? This all happens because other variables factor in. One is velocity. A lead bullet is softer than steel plate but if the steel is thin enough and the lead bullet is traveling fast enough it will damage the steel plate sometimes going straight through it. How about a water jet machine? They use water pumped out at very high pressure and it will cut straight through steel. Again there are always factors that can make something that at first seems illogical very possible. And if soft materials can scratch harder ones, then the companies responsible for coating millions of blades over the years have some explaining to do over the trillions of scratches out there.

TL;DR


As for the finish, yes, it's done by stonewashing a DLC coated piece.

It's adorable to watch this turn into a pissing match about people's knowledge of DLC coatings, and to see how much keyboard diarrhea can actually flow from one person. :D
 
I can't say that I've actually witnessed it, but my understanding is that water can actually wear away stone!

canyon4.jpg
 
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I thought we were talking about scratching, not wearing. Because that's two different things.
 
Ok, I officially want a 560BW also now. I need to get real creative funds wise because there's too many wants.
 
Why do people feel like they need to run their mouth about things like this? Just enjoy the knife. If you don't have anything supportive to say, don't say it at all. This is coming from a 15 year-old. I shouldn't have to say something to a "grown-up" about running their mouth. Normally, it's the other way around.

I personally think the 0560BW looks fantastic! When I eventually get a 0560, this will be the version that I get.
 
I got a normal 0350 a while back, then got a ZDP189 version, then a 0350TSST blem that I actually carry. I was intending on grinding the first one to be similar to an 0360, but this BW thing makes me kinda want to try that first.
 
I thought we were talking about scratching, not wearing. Because that's two different things.

well we were but then someone brought damage in general into the discussion.

I got a normal 0350 a while back, then got a ZDP189 version, then a 0350TSST blem that I actually carry. I was intending on grinding the first one to be similar to an 0360, but this BW thing makes me kinda want to try that first.

If you want to try it buy yourself a cheap tumbler. You can experiment with different shaped media to find which actualy gets the pattern you prefer. You can even do a similar effect to the black washing on non coated blades by doing an acid wash. Go to radioshack and get PCB etching solution. Mix some of it 50/50 with water and soak a non coated blade in the stuff. I prefer to heat the mixture so that it is almost steaming as it cuts a lot faster. This will give you a really dark finish on the blade and afterwards you can follow up with the tumbling. Acid washing wont take as long in the tumbler though. The only thing I would recommend doing is painting the area of the blade tang that the washers ride on with some nail polish before doing the acid etching. That way the acid wont eat into that area and your action will remain smooth. The stonewashing after the acid treatment wont effect the smoothness that much but a deep etch could. You can also use the nail polish on other parts of the blade as to be able to etch a pattern if you want.
 
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I can't say that I've actually witnessed it, but my understanding is that water can actually wear away stone!

canyon4.jpg

Primarily water erosion but also ice and wind plus the unique dry desert. Water in motion due to flashfloods and when the Colorado River was indeed mighty (before the dams) in the Springs is a mighty force. We use these abrasive blasting technologies today: water blasting, sand blasting, bead blasting, dry-ice blasting, etc.
 
If someone finds a good way to reproduce the BW look be sure and post directions.

My 0300 would love look to like this.:)
 
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If someone finds a good way to reproduce the BW look be sure and post directions.

My 0300 would love look like this.:)


All you need is a tumbler with ceramic media. You can buy a cheap machine and the media for around $75 from harbor freight tools and can do as many knives as you like. There are a few guys that ive seen that have a tumbler and charge anywhere between $25-50 to do a blade depending on if you do the tear down and reassembly.
 
Just looking at the Ti lock side I would say that good size flat stones were used. Any small or pointy media would have made that side look different. In the one video from Blade Jen said "we use synthetic stones" and "it took quite a bit of testing with different media to get the look we wanted". Or something along those lines. I'm about ready to try it with an old peanut butter jar and river rock in the drier with a bunch of towels.

All you need is a tumbler with ceramic media. You can buy a cheap machine and the media for around $75 from harbor freight tools and can do as many knives as you like. There are a few guys that ive seen that have a tumbler and charge anywhere between $25-50 to do a blade depending on if you do the tear down and reassembly.
 



Old peanut butter jar + river rock + drier. I didn't even wash the jar out just added a little water then the Ti and rock. 25 mins in the drier. Next I did the blade with a few smaller limestone rocks added to the other mix.
 
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