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- Apr 29, 2022
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Cellidor was first, but also did ABS and Nylon…and re-done on some printed plastic of unknown composition.
SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas
- Thread starter Spikediesel
- Start date
G
Guy McVer
I was just interested to hear if someone have reused the original shield on other scales, and what technique they uses. I have tried 2 ways to do it.
On the x-cut micarta it’s just glued on and then filled with casting epoxy. On the jute-micarta it’s glued on and then the scales are surface treated with the shield covered.
I will do some experiment with heat… With my basic tools I can’t do a cutout that satisfies my OCD
That's way better than anything I could do.
They both look nice but I think the bottom one turned out the best.
Yes I agree, the shield on the top got a bit battered after I removed it and reattached it after I sanded down the scales. But from a technical perspective it works really well (if you want surface treatment anyway).That's way better than anything I could do.
They both look nice but I think the bottom one turned out the best.
K
kamakiri.knives
With your experience of vintage models with visible pins, could you tell me if they are peened against the scale or if there is some sort of bushing between the liner and the scale? I am wondering if the scale is strong enough to peen against without weakening the material or making the tools wobbly?
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- Apr 29, 2022
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It’s not easy to cut out like a traditional inlay. The shield and cross together make it a lot of work. Separating the cross from the perimeter shield makes it a bit easier. The original cross a shield were 2-piece from about 1909 to (I think) the late ‘30s (1937) when cellidor was first used. Like the one on the left:I will do some experiment with heat… With my basic tools I can’t do a cutout that satisfies my OCD
One other way that I’ve done is to make the cut for only the outer edge and inlay the shield and cross with its cellidor back as a single inlay. I’ve done that to inlay say a red shield into a black scale. One is red and the other Ruby Translucent:
Everything was built that way until 1957, regardless of the scale material used. The rivet head actually spreads pretty far down in cellidor. So the head really isn’t far from the liner underneath. But it is why many old knives wobble after the scales shrink, wear or crack. I have to cut pretty deep to release a vintage scale without damaging or removing any material. And resin based scales seem to take to peening just fine, as you know. Cellidor isn’t much softer in that regard, I think.
A couple reused/reset inlays in cellidor:
Love the lineup, they look so cool with the old toolsIt’s not easy to cut out like a traditional inlay. The shield and cross together make it a lot of work. Separating the cross from the perimeter shield makes it a bit easier. The original cross a shield were 2-piece from about 1909 to (I think) the late ‘30s (1937) when cellidor was first used. Like the one on the left:
One other way that I’ve done is to make the cut for only the outer edge and inlay the shield and cross with its cellidor back as a single inlay. I’ve done that to inlay say a red shield into a black scale. One is red and the other Ruby Translucent:
Everything was built that way until 1957, regardless of the scale material used. The rivet head actually spreads pretty far down in cellidor. So the head really isn’t far from the liner underneath. But it is why many old knives wobble after the scales shrink, wear or crack. I have to cut pretty deep to release a vintage scale without damaging or removing any material. And resin based scales seem to take to peening just fine, as you know. Cellidor isn’t much softer in that regard, I think.
A couple reused/reset inlays in cellidor:
. Using a red filled shield is a nice touch with black scales, I will try that sometime 
With inspiration from the latest LE with the new tool that replaces the can opener, have any one tried to put a small blade in place of the can opener and still keep the multitool on the other side? I am thinking of a set up like a bantam with file and blade on one spring, and a small blade and mulitool on the other…
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- Apr 29, 2022
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The 93mm hawksbill pruners and electrician’s blades are done that way. They use an opposite/inboard crink and a 0.5mm spacer to fit around the caplifter. Another option is to crink the caplifter inboard.
Yes, the only time I have seen a small blade in the front are with the electrician and hawkbill. I had an idea about using the rounded “my first vic” blade and do some sort of reshape. I guess I will keep that idea in a drawer for now
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- Mar 10, 2020
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Hello, I recently picked these up at a yard sale "as is".
A Spartan (circa 1999 as it has a "Straight spring") and a Huntsman from 1999-2005.
(I think I mixed up which scales go with which knife though.)
I would like to know if I can get these fixed or repaired?
I've reached out to Victorinox here in Australia, but as yet no reply.
The Spartan's can opener has a slight twist in the screwdriver tip and one brass bush looks to be missing.
As for the Huntsman, all the tools are really hard to open but looks in good shape.
I've thought about doing a full rebuild with custom scales, but to be honest I feel this is beyond my talents.
Any and all help with these is very much appreciated.
A Spartan (circa 1999 as it has a "Straight spring") and a Huntsman from 1999-2005.
(I think I mixed up which scales go with which knife though.)
I would like to know if I can get these fixed or repaired?
I've reached out to Victorinox here in Australia, but as yet no reply.
The Spartan's can opener has a slight twist in the screwdriver tip and one brass bush looks to be missing.
As for the Huntsman, all the tools are really hard to open but looks in good shape.
I've thought about doing a full rebuild with custom scales, but to be honest I feel this is beyond my talents.
Any and all help with these is very much appreciated.
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2022
- Messages
- 360
I think you have the right scales with the respective knives and that the Huntsman’s were replaced (scales date ‘85/‘86) with glue attachment.
I think I can see an ‘01 date code in the Spartan front scale and can’t read the back scale. The ‘straight’ lug spring I have as a ‘00 change which coincides with the caplifter locking nub.
But I think you might have trouble getting either warrantee repaired. The Spartan because it’s parted out…and maybe the Huntsman, if they take issues with the glued in scales. Maybe they won’t have a problem with that.
Just give the Huntsman a good cleaning and put the scales back. DoneHello, I recently picked these up at a yard sale "as is".
A Spartan (circa 1999 as it has a "Straight spring") and a Huntsman from 1999-2005.
(I think I mixed up which scales go with which knife though.)
I would like to know if I can get these fixed or repaired?
I've reached out to Victorinox here in Australia, but as yet no reply.
The Spartan's can opener has a slight twist in the screwdriver tip and one brass bush looks to be missing.
As for the Huntsman, all the tools are really hard to open but looks in good shape.
I've thought about doing a full rebuild with custom scales, but to be honest I feel this is beyond my talents.
Any and all help with these is very much appreciated.
Since you already took the Spartan apart, look for a donor knife and take the can opener from that and put it back together. Vicorinox would surely have given you a new Spartan if it was in one piece…
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- Mar 10, 2020
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- 190
Thanks for your replies guys, much appreciated.
I did try cleaning the Huntsman, but no dice, still stiff as a board.
I've been looking at some "how to" videos in relation to rebuilding these myself.
I think I will try for something with micarta scales and have the pins showing.
I did try cleaning the Huntsman, but no dice, still stiff as a board.
I've been looking at some "how to" videos in relation to rebuilding these myself.
I think I will try for something with micarta scales and have the pins showing.
I use WD-40 and dish-soap on my flea market finds. Depending on the material in the scales I also use an ultrasonic cleaner (I usually use it when cleaning watch parts). But take it apart and make something nice and personal of it, we are after all in the “mods” thread
The latest build is almost finished (84mm Sportsman). I did try to put the blade and combo tool from "My first Vic" opposite the blade and file. No! I did not like the look even if I thought it would be cool with 2 blades in the front. I also wanted to try to use the super thin brass (0,15mm) as a liner to the scales to see if it would hold up for the tooth-pick and tweezers. I was not quite stiff enough, so no tooth-pic or tweezers.
I had a go at making linen micarta. I found a red linen fabric with nice texture that I had hopes for. I wanted it to have something like the original red colour of the celidor. Big fail on the colour staying red...
But it turned out to be a quite interesting look anyway
The final look of the micarta is something like a blodied up bordeaux.
a really rugged almost scary look
I still have to sand the rivets down and put a final finish on it, but I kind of like the crazy colour of the micarta
I had a go at making linen micarta. I found a red linen fabric with nice texture that I had hopes for. I wanted it to have something like the original red colour of the celidor. Big fail on the colour staying red...
But it turned out to be a quite interesting look anyway
The final look of the micarta is something like a blodied up bordeaux.
a really rugged almost scary look
I still have to sand the rivets down and put a final finish on it, but I kind of like the crazy colour of the micarta
almost forgot, the thin liners are polished and gives a nice look when the tools are out
315
Gold Member
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- Dec 2, 2017
- Messages
- 6,269
I like the variation of the color, outdoorsy looking if you ask me.The latest build is almost finished (84mm Sportsman). I did try to put the blade and combo tool from "My first Vic" opposite the blade and file. No! I did not like the look even if I thought it would be cool with 2 blades in the front. I also wanted to try to use the super thin brass (0,15mm) as a liner to the scales to see if it would hold up for the tooth-pick and tweezers. I was not quite stiff enough, so no tooth-pic or tweezers.
I had a go at making linen micarta. I found a red linen fabric with nice texture that I had hopes for. I wanted it to have something like the original red colour of the celidor. Big fail on the colour staying red...
But it turned out to be a quite interesting look anyway
The final look of the micarta is something like a blodied up bordeaux.
a really rugged almost scary look
I still have to sand the rivets down and put a final finish on it, but I kind of like the crazy colour of the micarta