SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas

Finished up another Minichamp!
These things always put up a fight 😁

aYhM4NI.jpg


r4bVJTs.jpg
 
Had this in my head for a week or two...

ruler.jpg


Simple idea, exactly like the ruler markings on the fish scaler. It's in inches starting at the tip of the saw. I did this with a Sharpie just to demonstrate it. It will rub off easily. You could etch the markings for something more permanent but it might affect the sawing efficiency by increasing lateral friction even though the saw is thinner at the spine and wider at the teeth.

edit: evidently Wenger had inch markings printed on their wood saws at some point in time.

They're heavily faded, but you can still faintly see inch markings on the saw in this image:
Wenger-Wood-Saw-Ruler.gif


source: https://www.smartknives.com/Wenger-Tools/Wood-Saw.htm
 
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Open question to anyone who wants to weigh in on it, even if you don't have a definitive answer:

What all is involved in getting the 91mm metal file into a 93mm alox SAK? Are there any complications or is it pretty straightforward? I mean... between the 91mm models and the 93mm models there's only a 2mm difference in the overall length of the main body of the SAK. Can I just put the metal file on the backspring for the 93mm wood saw? Could it really be that easy? What about the tool thickness? The 93mm tools tend to be a bit beefier. Would I need to add any washers?

🤔
 
Guy McVer said:
Could it really be that easy?
Click to expand...
Yes.

The only thing that needs to be done is match the pivot diameter. Victorinox probably wouldn’t have put them in the 93mm frame if it took much more than that.

There are many times in the past when the 91mm saws used the same backspring. Many times they didn’t…for various reasons, models, updates, backside tools and features, but were always the same width. Liners are a different story for the newer stainless ones, but shouldn’t be an issue if using factory liners or the typical profile in the 93mm.
 
Guy McVer said:
Had this in my head for a week or two...

ruler.jpg


Simple idea, exactly like the ruler markings on the fish scaler. It's in inches starting at the tip of the saw. I did this with a Sharpie just to demonstrate it. It will rub off easily. You could etch the markings for something more permanent but it might affect the sawing efficiency by increasing lateral friction even though the saw is thinner at the spine and wider at the teeth.

edit: evidently Wenger had inch markings printed on their wood saws at some point in time.

They're heavily faded, but you can still faintly see inch markings on the saw in this image:
Wenger-Wood-Saw-Ruler.gif


source: https://www.smartknives.com/Wenger-Tools/Wood-Saw.htm
Click to expand...
why not make notches on the spine instead if you want a ruler that lasts?
 
Barbababa said:
why not make notches on the spine instead if you want a ruler that lasts?
Click to expand...
I was thinking about that but notches on the spine are effectively also notches on the sides anyway. Both of them. So you lose the ability to have metric on one side and imperial on the other. I guess you could try to do it with itty bitty teeny weeinie dots that don't touch the edges but I can't do anything with that level of precision.

🤷‍♂️
 
Guy McVer said:
I was thinking about that but notches on the spine are effectively also notches on the sides anyway. Both of them. So you lose the ability to have metric on one side and imperial on the other. I guess you could try to do it with itty bitty teeny weeinie dots that don't touch the edges but I can't do anything with that level of precision.

🤷‍♂️
Click to expand...
So you basically post a idea to a mod that you immediately reject yourself? What was the point of posting a pic where you used a sharpie? I do think you exaggerating how much small lines on the side of the saw will affect it under use. I know a watchmaker that does lazer engraving on watch backs, and I know that same lazer could be used on a blade or saw.
 
Building on my previous post:
mythril.jpg

As they were before, the markings are in imperial inches, and you could use the other side for metric.

I got this idea from thinking about the saw guard on the old 108mm GAK/Safari Trooper model. A saw guard is removable, so it has no effect on the saw's efficiency, it's easier to measure things with it because it can be used independantly of the saw, and the markings won't get rubbed off when you use the saw to cut wood.

You can fold up the saw with the guard on it and it will stay in place. This makes it easy to store a ruler in your SAK.

This was done with a piece of aluminum tape which is folded over on itself and then wrapped around the base of the saw. It's quite hard to get a good picture of it because it's so reflective. The aluminum tape is very thin and flexible, but it still holds its shape when you bend it. This makes it quite easy to make it conform to the shape of the saw blade. To be clear, the tape is not stuck to the saw. The sticky side of the tape is stuck to itself, so it can't adhere to anything else.

Once again, this is just for demonstration purposes. It would be far better to have an actual rigid aluminum saw guard instead of a piece of stiff tape which can be easily crinkled or crushed accidentally.
 
Guy McVer said:
Building on my previous post:
mythril.jpg

As they were before, the markings are in imperial inches, and you could use the other side for metric.

I got this idea from thinking about the saw guard on the old 108mm GAK/Safari Trooper model. A saw guard is removable, so it has no effect on the saw's efficiency, it's easier to measure things with it because it can be used independantly of the saw, and the markings won't get rubbed off when you use the saw to cut wood.

You can fold up the saw with the guard on it and it will stay in place. This makes it easy to store a ruler in your SAK.

This was done with a piece of aluminum tape which is folded over on itself and then wrapped around the base of the saw. It's quite hard to get a good picture of it because it's so reflective. The aluminum tape is very thin and flexible, but it still holds its shape when you bend it. This makes it quite easy to make it conform to the shape of the saw blade. To be clear, the tape is not stuck to the saw. The sticky side of the tape is stuck to itself, so it can't adhere to anything else.

Once again, this is just for demonstration purposes. It would be far better to have an actual rigid aluminum saw guard instead of a piece of stiff tape which can be easily crinkled or crushed accidentally.
Click to expand...
I like the concept. Kaizen!
 
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