$0.75 Start to finish bushcraft knife in less time then it takes to get a pizza.

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I can see the resemblance to a clever..in the blade shape. I would think that elongated extension at the rear of the handle would severely hinder the function of the blade though and the straight handle is going to be a problem as well. You mentioned that it's to replace a kukri, there's a reason those blades don't have things like that. It's just going to get in the way.
 
I plan on doing more knives and will probably be ordering materials from Alpha knife supply for it the prices are great from what I have been looking through. I still can send this thing in for heat treating again if I wanted right now I am just trying to straighten the blade up again. I am still in the brain storming process on what I want to do next and what I would want to change. Its testing that I believe I am lacking. I have not been able to take things out to the woods and use them to see what the flaws are. I am going to finish this one up with the heat treat on it and see if it will work for the shape I need at least. I know that some countries have straight bladed machetes and they do not work as well as a kukri in some cases but it is also not something that I made. As all of you have said its a work in progress nothing is ever "perfect" so I have some testing to do. I did not want to cause any problems sending my knife or knives in to shawblades I know he does this type of thing for a living and did not want to be a bother. Thank you for all the advice and help.
 
While I am all for having fun with what you do, we should ensure that we aren't the only ones having fun while others suffer the waves we make.

AKS said he would send you free steel, and that you should send it out for professional heat treat to compare to the other thing you made.

Several people offered good advice and you admit you did not puruse that information as quickly as you put labor into free steel.

Whatever you say you are doing, your actions are much more telling. Post less, learn more.
 
I am sorry I do not recall you on the call with Chuck from AKS while speaking with him he said he was sending me a piece of steel the size of a bowie knife and that is the type of knife he suggested seeing as it is 5160. I did not see the need to hack up a large piece of steel only to use 1/3rd of it sorry about that. When I order more material I will pick a steel that is closer to the type of file steel to use as a comparison.

Yes I am a little quick to jump the gun with some things but I did not feel like hacking up a large piece of steel to make a small knife its not what I wanted or needed. I have been watching videos on sharpening jigs does anyone know of a cheap one that they would suggest for such a straight blade like the one I have? I do not have a bench grinder and would probably rather do it by hand file to get it straight and level at this point.

I am still thinking of sending it in for pro heat treating as I am not going to be doing any testing on it yet still deciding what to do with the handle. I will probably send it off next week if Shawblades still wants to run one or 2 through the treating process.
 
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Your walls of text are as horrible as this thread has become.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I have been watching videos on sharpening jigs does anyone know of a cheap one that they would suggest for such a straight blade like the one I have? I do not have a bench grinder and would probably rather do it by hand file to get it straight and level at this point.
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If you would go through those links I gave you, there are a few examples in there.
Perfect examples


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-takes-to-get-a-pizza?p=14045974#post14045974

Don't get a bench grinder, useless for you.



I think, the absolute best way for you to improve right now is to show us some sketches and drawings.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I am sorry I do not recall you on the call with Chuck from AKS while speaking with him he said he was sending me a piece of steel the size of a bowie knife and that is the type of knife he suggested seeing as it is 5160. I did not see the need to hack up a large piece of steel only to use 1/3rd of it sorry about that. When I order more material I will pick a steel that is closer to the type of file steel to use as a comparison.

Yes I am a little quick to jump the gun with some things but I did not feel like hacking up a large piece of steel to make a small knife its not what I wanted or needed. I have been watching videos on sharpening jigs does anyone know of a cheap one that they would suggest for such a straight blade like the one I have? I do not have a bench grinder and would probably rather do it by hand file to get it straight and level at this point.

I am still thinking of sending it in for pro heat treating as I am not going to be doing any testing on it yet still deciding what to do with the handle. I will probably send it off next week if Shawblades still wants to run one or 2 through the treating process.
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There are so many things wrong with this post.......

It's steel man. They make more of it. Lots and lots more. If you cut a big piece into small pieces there are lots more big pieces.

Here's my standard reply. If you want to mess around making knife like objects without understanding or wanting to understand knife design, fine. That's your deal and that is actually ok. As long as you understand that is what you're doing.
If you want to actually learn the knifemaking craft, you need to start small. Find an easy pattern. A Kephart would be a good one. Down size it to 6" overall length. Put it on 3/32 or 1/8" steel. Something easy to work with, 1080 maybe if you're buying from Chuck and Jessica. (Which I wholeheartedly suggest! Great people those two.)

You can do it either way, just understand the end result of both ways.

Now, for a slightly less subtle message...


SLOW THE HECK DOWN!

It's not a race man. You're making huge knives (kinda knives anyway.) Your grinding is atrocious, your ergonomics are horrific and your designs have stuff on then that just don't make sense! What is the huge notch for at the plunge line on the chopper thing you made? Have you ever, a single time, seen that on another knife? There are reasons things are made a certain way and reasons why they aren't made other ways.

If your knife like object got hard, you won't be able to file it sharp. It's not an axe.

Which takes me to my next point....

READ THE STINKING STICKIES!!!

They are there for a reason, and it's not just because the top of the forum was a bit cold and needed a word blanket. There is one in there titled something like "how to make a knife." Read it, follow it, make an actual knife. Then go back and try the zombie killer knife thing again.

Or don't, it's up to you. But don't ask for help, not take any of the advice given to you, and wonder why we get a bit cool towards you.

Read more, post less, learn more.
 
12345678910 said:
I think, the absolute best way for you to improve right now is to show us some sketches and drawings.
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I agree. The fastest way to learn to make the best knife you can is to start a WIP and post every single step before you do it. That means from drawing to final sanding. The people on this forum really can help you if you let them.

Oh and please just read the stickies;)
 
jobasha11 said:
I agree. The fastest way to learn to make the best knife you can is to start a WIP and post every single step before you do it. That means from drawing to final sanding. The people on this forum really can help you if you let them.

Oh and please just read the stickies;)
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That won't work.....he would have to wait for replies and suggestions, as well as accept critique. It could take a couple of weeks to complete a knife....naw, I don't see that happening.
 
I have my working bushcraft knife now its not perfect but works. I am going to take some time on the next one it may end up as a christmas present to a buddy. Is stainless any harder to work? if I made a bushcraft knife for him should I try stainless? is the 5160 fine for a small bushcraft knife like my file knife?

I have some drawings to start looking into I do think I may need a new post a lot of this post is not very productive and sorta brings me down when I open it up. I think I do need to slow down now that I have a use able knife I can focus on something that will take some time to make and someone will be happy to carry.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I have my working bushcraft knife now its not perfect but works. I am going to take some time on the next one it may end up as a christmas present to a buddy. Is stainless any harder to work? if I made a bushcraft knife for him should I try stainless? is the 5160 fine for a small bushcraft knife like my file knife?

I have some drawings to start looking into I do think I may need a new post a lot of this post is not very productive and sorta brings me down when I open it up. I think I do need to slow down now that I have a use able knife I can focus on something that will take some time to make and someone will be happy to carry.
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It should bring you down. I hope it does. Sometimes the truth hurts, but only by searching for truth, and the acceptance of that truth, and the integration of that truth into your life and craft, can anything ever change. We don't tell you the truth to hurt you, but rather to help you change into the strongest version of yourself you can be.
 
bigboysbushcraft said:
I have my working bushcraft knife now its not perfect but works. I am going to take some time on the next one it may end up as a christmas present to a buddy. Is stainless any harder to work? if I made a bushcraft knife for him should I try stainless? is the 5160 fine for a small bushcraft knife like my file knife?

I have some drawings to start looking into I do think I may need a new post a lot of this post is not very productive and sorta brings me down when I open it up. I think I do need to slow down now that I have a use able knife I can focus on something that will take some time to make and someone will be happy to carry.
Click to expand...

It should bring you down. I hope it does. Sometimes the truth hurts, but only by searching for truth, and the acceptance of that truth, and the integration of that truth into your life and craft, can anything ever change. We don't tell you the truth to hurt you, but rather to help you change into the strongest version of yourself you can be.
 
It is good that you see the need to slow down and take a deep breath.

I suggest you start a new thread when you are ready to start the next knife project. I also suggest you read the sticky, "How To Instructions for Making a Knife".

If you start a new thread, make a plan, post drawings, etc. - I would be glad to take your final drawing and do the profile in good steel, and send it to you.



If you want to close this thread or I will do it for you if you ask.
 
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yeah you can close this I just want to make sure I can access everyones posts because there was a lot of good information to look at in there thats why I would rather not have it deleted but yeah I will start a new post thank you.
 
In the count's standard reply/stickies:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ#t=330

That jig is quite simple and should be more than adequate for not only cleaning up your grind lines, but also sharpening by using a diamond file or taping some sandpaper or a sharpening stone to a piece of flat stock in the same manner as the file used in the jig.
 
Yeah, that should work just like an Edge Pro. Only downside of the jig is that you need to move the arm up and down to change the sharpening angle. It would be cool if someone could make a small run of the little knuckle thingies (for lack of the proper term) that moves up and down the rod with a set screw and has a pivot block on the side. If a machinist had an example it probably wouldn't be too difficult. Would also improve the filing ability too.
 
Thread closed.



Lets all wait and see what BigBoy comes up with. Hopefully it will be a basic and useful field knife like a drop point hunter.
 
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