$0.75 Start to finish bushcraft knife in less time then it takes to get a pizza.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Carve a spoon with it. The edge (if you want it to be a real use scandi) should be acute enough to carve well.

Other common tests include cutting cardboard and sisal rope. If you have another knife with comparable steel use it to cut cardboard (make sure the edge is good and sharp) until it dulls count the cuts making sure they are all the same length cuts. Some people tape off the edge so that only an inch or whatever is used. Then use your other knife in the same manner and compare the number of cuts. Any abrasive media can be used, but try to get the edges as similar as possible. You can get really technical if you wish, however, the above will give you some easy and useful data. There are a million ways to do it in order to test many parameters of the heat treat and steel (and geometry), but I'd just look at edge retention first.

Publish your results here. I'm sure we'll all be interested to see it.
 
I basicly hacked through a 2x4 and then carved a feather stick with it and it did not curl or chip any and still shaved a some. Then stromped it a couple of times and its right back to razor sharp and will shave just like a straight razor.
 
I guess I will continue working on it I think its going to be paracord wrapped in blaze orange hunting paracord epoxied Just waiting on the other metal to get here I can start work on that and maby send them both in for heat treat at the same time.
 
Last edited:
That's interesting but at minimum I personally would rather get a more with a comfortable handle. Even with paranoid it looks a bit uncomfortable?
 
Well from the video that someone posted on here if you double wrap it and then soak it in epoxy then then squeeze it to your hand form and let it dry for a day it will become harder then any other wrap out there pretty much and will have a great form to it because where you squeezed will indent some and when it hardens the indent will be there
 
Thank you Chuck from Alpha Knife Supply I was sent out a piece of 5160 its a very large piece I am debating on what kind of shape I want to do so that may be the hardest part.

GEDC1108.jpg

GEDC1109.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure the edge retention testing etc. is all supposed to be done post heat treat in order to see it you have a good heat treat/geomentry etc.. :p I can't imagine a non heat treated blade doing all that chopping etc and still being "razor sharp"? This is just what I've learned from the number of years I've been into knife making and making knives. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong lol. :D Maybe you didn't screw the temper up as badly as we all thought when you where grinding away at the bevel? :confused: I know you can get most steels sharp enough to shave even if it's crap steel for blades, but the difference between quality and non quality steel and HT is "mostly" with edge retention (to put it simply that is)..

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
Are there any problems with making a knife with a cleaver end if I use it for chopping? I would think there should not be any less of an issue with the tip then any other blade as long as I made the cleaver angle at about 110 degrees correct? its 1/4 inch thick
 
Bigboy sending a sharp knife to the heat treater is usually frowned upon . First thought it that would be dangerous for him, second thought is warping.
 
yeah I may have to dull the blade alittle before sending it in or wrap it with a piece of PVC or something when I ship it in. I started on the piece of steel tell me what you guys think so far. I want it to be a cross between a bowie and a cleaver so I can replace my kukri for a large knife for carrying into the woods. It still has a lot of work and filing out the finger indents but feels very comfortable already.
SUNP0124.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top