15n20 steel Give-Away

Appreciate the generosity JT! I am a really new to knifemaking, so the only things I can think to share are:
1) Take your time, make a plan/sketch, then don't be afraid to revise it.
2) Get a subscription to audible. I love to get out in the garage and file away on a knife while enthralled in a story, keeps me from getting burned out on repetitive motions.
 
This thread is great, both a chance to win some steel AND as a newbie I'm picking up GREAT tips!

Not necessarily a great tip, but I'm learning never to work tired, in a huge hurry, or worse in a hurry when tired. I was working wood on a disc sander, tired and trying to get done to meet friends, slipped and luckily ground a big piece of fingernail away instead of a huge chunk of the finger...
 
Greenberg Woods said:
Nice one JT.

To prevent a rash from using rosewood, shower immediately after sanding and use shampoo instead of soap, it will better strip the irritating oils f4om your skin and prevent a rash.
Click to expand...

Dish soap is even better. I use it whenever I get into poison oak.

Also: Heat will undo super glue and epoxy, for better or for worse. Going too aggresive on the sander when shaping wa handles with metal layers, a pocket knife with glued scales, etc. is enough for the piece to fall apart. I learned this one the hard way.

Heat will also undo loctite, even the red stuff. I've never done it myself but I belive you need torch heat, I doubt a heat gun will do it.
 
Last edited:
This is a great giveaway! I have learned a lot from all the replies. I have learned to be careful while grinding a blade. Heat treated or not, always keep it cool, by dipping in water VERY often. Leave the tip a little thicker than the rest before heat treat.
Drill all holes before heat treat.
Make sure steel and scal s are flat.
Make your own two brick forge for heat treating, works great!
Hand sanding I use sandpaper on a flat and squared up piece of steel, 6"-8" or whatever gives good grip
Another sanding piece has a scrap piece of leather on it. Helps cushin sandpaper and works good for nice finish.
Go to 800 grit then back to perfect 600 grit sandpaper for nice finish.
 
Ok guys the drawing is over. I would like to thank everyone for contributing to helping make us better knife makers.
I recorded the drawing so there was no question.
[video]https://youtu.be/iLadJjyGZTs[/video]

Winner is
Coldsteelburns
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the thread and giveaway, JT! I learned a lot, grateful for the knowledge and experience forum members have and are willing to share so freely. :thumbup:
 
JT, Great idea and a great gift to the group, not just the steel, but all the tips collected in one place. Congrats to Coldsteelburns for the win.

Now for my tip to offer to the group - I've not seen this before. I've always used Nickel Silver Corby screws for scales because they look just about like stainless and are so much softer and tend to shape to the wood scale better than SS Corby's do. This was brought home to me again this morning when cutting excess Corby screws off - I'd used a few SS screws (not sure why I had them) and they were so much harder to cut than the normal Nickel Silver Corby screws are. Yes, NS does have a very slight yellowish cast, but once finished in wood handle it's never really noticed at all, unless there is other SS trim (bolster, etc) on handle.

Ken H>
 
Wow, I honestly didn't expect to win! This is awesome! :D

JT, I just replied to your email(finally...) I'm sorry for being 2 days late though! :o

Thanks again for your generosity to this forum bro. :) :thumbup:

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top