1st knive on the Edge Pro Apex

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Jul 16, 2007
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Okay, watched the DVD, then read the book...time to grind some steel!:D I chose as my first "victim" a newish Chigaco Cutlery Kyoto 7" Granton Edge Santoku. While it was reasonably sharp from the package, the bevel was noticably uneven in spots as you might expect from a lower priced CC knive. I laid down a peice of rubber shelfliner, then put a cookie pan on it, to which I stuck the suction cups of the Apex.

First I chose a likely angle to begin, then lightly marked the edge of the blade with a Sharpie. I then adjusted the knife guide. Turns out my guess was pretty good- only a minute change was necessary to neatly cut the mark cleanly. I wet the 220 stone and went to work. As expected, it initially felt awkward. By "initially" I mean for about 3 minutes. Then you start to get the feel for it. By no means do you master it, but it begins to feel intuitive. Even though the angle is pretty close, after a few minutes of not feeling a burr I realize I'm not putting any real pressure on the stone, so I put a little "umph" into it- nothing major, just light-to-moderate pressure. I try to keep it to only five or six strokes per section of the blade.

Then after another minute or two, presto! A burr began to form along a good portion of the blade. Being my first effort I didn't want to overdue it, so I flipped it and lightly knocked the burr off. A couple of very light polishing licks to each side (still w/the 220 stone) and I called it good. After carefully feeling for any burr I determined that I was done for now and tested the edge.

For my first try it's not bad at all. Cuts like a lightsaber compared to out of the box. I stopped a bit short of shaving sharp since I wanted to try to make a good working edge that will hold up. It cuts paper very agressively and sliced rolled towels vastly better than before. That's a somewhat coarse stone and I did no polishing, so you'd expect that type of finish on the edge.

Bear in mind, I'm just learning how to use it. I'll probably see if it will take a razor edge (and of course, see if I can do so on the Apex or if I need a bit more practice- I don't expect it to be instant). I chose that knife because it was pretty cheap, but the X-factor is that it's hard to know what the blade is capable of.

The fit and finish of the machine is excellent, especially considering it only cost $200 shipped. It assembles very easily and is quite solid- between the 2 suction cups and two widely spaced legs it really stays put. Even more impressive is how smooth everything feels. It's very easily to manipulate the stone arm; it really glides with very little effort. For a minute I couldn't figure out how to get the stone to stay in (note: I always save the instructions as a last resort!:D). Then I realized, Duh! You give the knob a twist... Obviously I imagine I'll get a lot better once I do a few knives, but it's pretty easy to get the hang of.

I'll take a few pics when time permits. For now I think I'll play with it some more.:D
 
Thks for the review, it helped me to decide. (well it was only a matter of time - but now I have the excuse :D).

Definitely I'm going to buy one and use only the sharpmaker for quick touch ups.
 
Good report. I had not noticed in the pictures of it on the net that it had suction cups. I wondered if it had to be screwed down to a bench or hand held. Did you go to the finer stones to polish the knife that you worked on? I have a couple D2 blades that could use a little work. I might have to bring them down for a test.
 
Ha! I had a feeling you'd polish that Santoku up some more. Congrats. When I want a perfect bevel I bust out my Edge Pro uselly I just fumble along free handing with waterstones and Sharpmaker.
 
The hook is set!!! :D Welcome to the illness, and enjoy! The edges that you can get are truly amazing!
 
Made my mind up as well. I've been vacillating back & forth from "Sharpmaker" to "Edgepro". After your test, goin' with the "Edge Pro".
 
FWIW, I put mine on a lunch room tray that my wife had aquired from somewhere... it catches all the drippings and makes for cleaner counter tops.

OldFogey, you might as well go ahead and buy both. You'll end up there anyway. :) The EP is great for really removing material, but the Sharpmaker is much easier to set up for touchups.

Don't buy any Bark Rivers though... If you do, you'll realize that a kick-ass sharpening setup for them involves about $10 worth of plywood and $5 worth of scrap leather, combined with a few odd sheets of sandpaper and some buffing compound. My stropping setup so far costs less than just the diamond stones for my sharpmaker. :o
 
Good report. I had not noticed in the pictures of it on the net that it had suction cups. I wondered if it had to be screwed down to a bench or hand held. Did you go to the finer stones to polish the knife that you worked on? I have a couple D2 blades that could use a little work. I might have to bring them down for a test.


They stick pretty solidly to a smooth surface, definately pretty stable. I think a cookie sheet is ideal- you're rewetting the waterstones quite a bit which would be pretty messy on a tabletop or counter.

Since it was my first effort I didn't go to a finer stone, at least I haven't yet. If you test it on your arm the hair will really fly already. The second one I sharpened was a forged paring knife. It won't shave but it cuts extremely well. It has the thickest blade and bevel I've ever seen on a paring knife, far from ideal. I think it ideally should be hogged down a few degrees but it's probably not worth the effort. It cuts much better than it did. The third blade I sharpened was a cheapo forged chef knife. Not bad, but by this point I was getting pretty tired (it was about 4 am!) and I basically decided to mess with it later.:D

I'll probably go thru my roll tomorrow and look for blades to touch up. I keep em all sharp, but not Shun-sharp.

BTW, the ceramic "steel" is awesome! It really does put that finishing touch on the edge.
 
Okay, watched the DVD, then read the book...

The fit and finish of the machine is excellent, especially considering it only cost $200 shipped. It assembles very easily and is quite solid- between the 2 suction cups and two widely spaced legs it really stays put. Even more impressive is how smooth everything feels. It's very easily to manipulate the stone arm; it really glides with very little effort. For a minute I couldn't figure out how to get the stone to stay in (note: I always save the instructions as a last resort!:D). Then I realized, Duh! You give the knob a twist... Obviously I imagine I'll get a lot better once I do a few knives, but it's pretty easy to get the hang of.

I'll take a few pics when time permits. For now I think I'll play with it some more.:D

Good review of a great tool. We were putting wide edges on some of our knives until we realized that the thicker blades required some angle readjustment. Also, we were probably putting too much pressure behind the strokes. All of the kitchen knives-Henckels, etc. now have tight, extremely sharp edges compliments of the Edge Pro. Next, we started working on EDCs and put tidy, "scary sharp" edges on them. It took lots of practice but we are pretty comfortable with the Edge Pro. Ordering replacement stones is a snap. Inventor/Owner Ben Dale is stand up guy who knows customer service.

GB
 
Today was football & Xmas shopping day, so no time to play with the Apex. I don't have it all mastered yet, but hopefully a few more blades will help. I definately found the thin bladed santoku easier to work on than the 8" French knife. Perhaps it's due to the bevel angle or the hardness of the steel, I'm not sure yet. So far none of my efforts have been flops.;)

Tomorrow I'd like to touch up my Henckles granton edge santoku. I definately want to do a dozen or more blades and really be confident I've got the process down pat before I lay one of my Shuns on the blade table!:eek: Although none of them remotely need sharpening.


udtjim- next time you're up this way you'll have to bring a few to work on. I'm having trouble finding any dull ones!:o Maybe I could bring a few of the worst ones from work.
 
Today was football & Xmas shopping day, so no time to play with the Apex. I don't have it all mastered yet, but hopefully a few more blades will help. I definately found the thin bladed santoku easier to work on than the 8" French knife. Perhaps it's due to the bevel angle or the hardness of the steel, I'm not sure yet. So far none of my efforts have been flops.;)

Aside from a few edges that required reprofiling to get a finer bevel, the only knife that has presented a real problem is the latest Gerber Guardian. The double edged blade is tough to get seated right on the platform and we have yet to put a decent edge on one.

GB
 
Might come down for Xmas. will bring along some victims.:D That Wasibi is a heck of a knife.
 
The Kershaw Wasabi line is terrific for the price, even for double the price. I'm pretty impressed with the Pure Komachi knives, too. Seems that at every price level Kershaw knives are tough to beat, from kitchen knives to folders.
 
Did a few more knives tonite; a 12" granton edged Fibrox slicer that I use for prime rib at work, an 8" Mui France forged French knife & an 8" forged Mui France slicer. It should come as no surprise that the Fibrox was the easiest to sharpen. After all, it's straight & flat with the edge & spine almost parallel. Less than five minutes to hair popping sharpness after a couple very light licks on the ceramic steel.

So far I'm still working just the 220 grit (mostly too lazy to switch the stones:o:p). Very soon I'll try the other stones, but I want to make sure I'm doing the basics all correctly before I move on to the next element.
 
The Edge Pro technique is pretty easy to learn. To master will take some time and a lot of knives. One thing to remember is, if you are not getting a burr then your angle is too low. Once you get a burr and remove it the knife is very sharp. As you refine the edge with finer grit stones it gets sharper.

I set mine on a half sheet tray to catch the water.

I use a spray bottle of water to clean the stones. This really blasts away the filings from the stone.

I placed a spring between the block and the handle for easy stone change outs.
 
I have quite a bunch of Kershaw knives. They are a lot of knife for the dollar.
 
I did used the Apex to fix up one of the worst knives I've ever seen tonight. My brother has an old stamped 10" French knife that I used back in the first kitchen I ever managed. I gave it to my sister many years ago and eventually he got it. It hadn't been sharpened on anything but a carbide ripper in about 15 years!:eek: The edge was so ripped & chipped up that honestly it almost looked like one of those Ginsu-2000-style micro serrated blades.

I started on the 120 grit stone, and it really moves metal fast. Even still I had to cut a while to get thru all the edge damage. I cut a nice clean, slightly shallow bevel and stopped short of getting a burr, then raised the angle by about 5 degrees and cut an edge into it. Then I switched to the 220 and raised a burr, then switched to the 320. Once I got a burr I cleaned it off & finished it on the ceramic steel. It's no Shun but it will chop thin slices off of hanging paper now.:)

My brother won't even recognize the knife when I give it back!:D The edge looked beyond help but now it's nice & clean.

Btw, I bought an "accessory" tonite- on the way home I hit Wally World and picked up a handheld magnifying glass. It's not a very good one, and only 2X/4X, but it helps. I'll have to hit a craft store or something during business hours or buy online to get a good one, but this will do for now. [rant on/]I actually bought two- one larger one and a smaller, lighted one. I put batteries in the lighted on, but when I flicked the switch it actually fell completely out of the handle!:mad: Damn cheap Chinese junk! It's going back tomorrow![/rant off] I want a bit higher power one, maybe one on an arm, to examine the edge and to see more precisely where the stone is cutting the Sharpie mark. My eyes aren't the greatest and my prescription is a bit out of date, too.
 
See if you can pick up some cheap jeweler's loupes (the kind that you hold with one eye squinted). They're great for looking at an edge as long as you're in a well lit area.
 
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