1st knive on the Edge Pro Apex

See if you can pick up some cheap jeweler's loupes (the kind that you hold with one eye squinted). They're great for looking at an edge as long as you're in a well lit area.


Yeah, I was thinking of that. But I'm not sure where to buy one. Hobby store? Craft store? Jewelry store? To be honest, I have even been thinking about a microscope, just to understand what's happening to the edge at 400X. The 4X helps, not a lot of power but better than my eyes.

I did just sharpen one more (those that have heard enough or are getting tired of my play-by-play can just skip ahead!:p). I touched up another knife from the Chicago Cutlery Kyoto block set. They call it a "deba" but it's really a Nakiri. At any rate, I picked a very low angle (they seem to be ground at around 15 degrees or so, in Japanese fashion) and cut the marker. I wet the 220 and cut both sides, flipping a couple times til I got a burr. Then I went to the 320. [NOTE: the 320 seems an awful lot finer than the 220. I recall Mr. Dale saying the grits don't exactly correspond to those we're used to.] Once I felt satisfied I examined the edge with @ 4X, just to see how the bevel looked. I then hit the ceramic a few times.

Once I was done I'd have to say I was astonished- it's sharper than I've ever gotten a knife, and I didn't even get to the 800 grit stone.:eek: It easily slices strips all the way thru hanging 8.5x11" paper, fillets/delaminates paper & tagboard, wave it over your arm & hair flies, etc, etc.:)

With each blade I get a bit more proficient. Next time I think I'll mask the knife with painters tape to prevent any scratching. And I'll have to choose one to work up to 800 grit eventually. I'm not sure how polished I want a kitchen knife, but having one that push cuts easily would be nice just to show in "layman's terms" just good an edge the Apex can give you. I do think I'll need another 8 or 10 tries to really get it down pat- right now I still find it easier with my left hand holding & right hand "driving": mostly because holding with my right feels awkward.:confused: Probably it's because I'm right handed and right eye dominant. I can move the stone well with the left but the right hand doesn't seem comfortable just holding the handle! Sometimes I get this making omelletes, too, and I find myself transferring a pan to my left hand to flip the eggs.

I will post some pictures pretty soon, I hope. For anyone on the fence that's considering getting one, I'd say you can't go wrong. It's well made and easy to use. It's not idiot proof, and a basic knowledge of sharpening speeds the learning curve a lot. That said, I think anyone could learn to get a breathtakingly sharp edge in a couple days practice. Even though I have the basics down I find each time I get better.

Only one thought nags at me- if the Apex is this good, how great must the Pro be? I wonder if I should have just gone with the "Full Monty" straight away! That's no knock on the Apex, just the opposite; it's a fantastic tool. But I see the Pro model in my immediate future. And when I do get the Pro, I think the Apex will stay in my kit. It's so handy, and packs up into a roll smaller than an 8 slot Wustof knife roll.

I give it the thumbs up!:thumbup::D
 
I think the pro model is only better in material selection, for durability with daily continuous use!
But if anyone has one and the differences are far more than that, would like to know before I buy mine....
 
I think the pro model is only better in material selection, for durability with daily continuous use!
But if anyone has one and the differences are far more than that, would like to know before I buy mine....


I think you have longer stone arm travel with the pro. I know from their website that the Pro can be set to lower angles (6 degrees vs 10 degrees for the Apex) and only the Pro accepts the scissor attachment. Although I might be off base, in the pictures it looks like the blade table may be a tad wider on the Pro (don't take this as fact, I'm just guessing based on photos).

The added height adjustability would be nice. Of course, you may not need it if you can set it up at the optimal height in the first place.
 
I'm glad that you like it! I've had mine for about 7 years, and still love it, but still want a pro also. You haven't lived until you've gone up to the 3000 tape, though.... :D ;)
 
There are only two reasons to get a 'Pro'

1. You need the scissor attachment.
2. You are sharpening as a business and need the extra quality that the pro has. Well I think the Apex is fine in that regard, so its really all about scissors.

The pro has an adjustable ramp but the benefits are so small as not to make much difference,

Buy more hones, blanks and polishing tapes. That's where the value is.
 
See if you can pick up some cheap jeweler's loupes (the kind that you hold with one eye squinted). They're great for looking at an edge as long as you're in a well lit area.


Yeah. Just use loupe for an ebay search. Look for a 20x, made and shipped from China. They work great and will tell you everything you need to know about your edges.

Buzz
 
I think you have longer stone arm travel with the pro. I know from their website that the Pro can be set to lower angles (6 degrees vs 10 degrees for the Apex) and only the Pro accepts the scissor attachment. Although I might be off base, in the pictures it looks like the blade table may be a tad wider on the Pro (don't take this as fact, I'm just guessing based on photos).

The added height adjustability would be nice. Of course, you may not need it if you can set it up at the optimal height in the first place.

You are correct!
Forgot that they are also able to sharpen scissors, but that is not something that is much an interest at least for me.
Altough I didn't knew about the angle variation! nice info.

One thing is for sure, they look a pretty more solid, but they are a bit more double the price (comparing the expensiver kits)... so I'm not really sure if it worth double the money, at least for me of course!
 
Okay, one last update before I start taking pictures. I sharpened my Henckels 7" granton-edged santuko tonight- this time I masked the blade in painters tape to prevent scratches and worked all the way up to the 800 grit stone. Very nice edge!:D
 
You know I've never seen scratches on my Henckels but did my Tojiro on the EP unprotected and got ugly scratches all along the blade. Difference in finish of course.
 
It sounds to me like the real plus of this system is the ability to match an edge for specific purposes as well as just putting on a good edge.
 
It sounds to me like the real plus of this system is the ability to match an edge for specific purposes as well as just putting on a good edge.

That's true, not to mention at almost any angle, and easily repeatable. Good stuff!
 
You know I've never seen scratches on my Henckels but did my Tojiro on the EP unprotected and got ugly scratches all along the blade. Difference in finish of course.


It seems to depend on the knife, or maybe I just accidentally drug the stone over the side a bit while I was learning. I did it just to be safe, most of the time I've had no problems. Definately I would mask my Shuns- they're too beautiful to risk scratching them.:D
 
It sounds to me like the real plus of this system is the ability to match an edge for specific purposes as well as just putting on a good edge.

Yes it is. I've had mine out this week. Touched up a lot of knives. Once you get on target with the angle it takes very little time to get to shaving sharp. The edges look beautiful.

Another tip is to make a note of what angle each knife is sharpened at and record it some place. This will save a lot of time when you go to touch up.
 
I think the scratches will always happen if you don't tape the blade. The slurry runs from the edge to the spine on both sides, and gets all over the surface that you put your knife on. Personally, I don't care, but if you have some nice blades, then you might want to always tape them to avoid this.
 
When I sharpen Buck 110 folders on the EdgePro, I just set the flat ricasso on the blade table. The rest of the blade doesn't touch the table so I gon't get any scratches even without tape.
 
Q for you Edge Pro users:
Do you think you get the scratches because the knife is not "clamped" in the fixture? By moving the blade a bit while sharpening it looks like your rubbing the blade against the slurry on the machine.
 
Yes, but if you are going to clamp it, you'd better clean the ramp first. Also, you'll spend a lot of time clamping and unclamping...
 
Back
Top