~$200 range disk sander

Crag the Brewer said:
Also, I wanted to say the other day, I can't remember if it was mentioned or not yet???

Your vfd prob wont work on ground fault protected outlets.
some garages, basements, and shops may have them.
you might need to swap out the outlet for an older, non protected style. It's easy.
Click to expand...
I’ll keep that in mind. The garage and house are decently old (1950’s), not too much has been updated by the landlord so I might have the older outlet style. If not the landlord is so laid back sometimes that she would probably let me change the outlet if I asked.

Funny thing, our lease agreement says things like we can’t have large amounts of oil, propane, stuff like that. When we signed it I told her I have 5gal of heat treating oil and a 100lb propane tank. She told me “meh those are just words on paper don’t worry about it”
 
So I got my power cord set up assembled and I started prepping the wires for the motor to the VFD. I’m seeing some conflicting info on which color wire is which L. The 3 phase cord is red, white, black, and green. I assume green is ground since most sources that seems consistent. But I’m not sure which L red, white, and black are.

https://imgur.com/a/DvuuIrv
 
Grounds get connected together. Ground is Ground.

The three lines don't matter in 3 phase.
if you want a different motor rotation, switch Any two of the three lines.
 
As Crag said, it really doesn't matter. "Usually" the industrial standard is for
L1 = Black
L2 = Red
L3 = white
With Green as ground.
If motor rotation is wrong, just switch two of the "L" color wires to reverse rotation
 
Alright good news! I got it all wired up and it looks like I’m getting power to the VFD without anything bursting into flames!

https://imgur.com/a/9MwXed5

For some reason I can’t get the motor to turn though. I assume I either:

1: put the wires from the motor to the VFD in the wrong slots. I just put the black, white, and red in the same locations on the bottom that I saw the previous ones B/W/R were in. I don’t see the labels for those slots so I’m not sure which slots they need to be in.

Or

2: I just have no idea how to work the VFD. I tried to find manuals online on what each mode does but it turned out that none of the manuals I found were 1) the same model 2) just data sheets on size and specs.

I tried to cycle through the modes on it, the first mode displays 00. Then when I push/hold the up and down arrows it increases the number. I assume this is the speed or RPM? But changing the number still doesn’t turn the motor. The second mode shows P50 then the arrows change the number. I assume this one is for programming based off the limited info I found in the manual. And the third mode says 1LF and the arrows didn’t change anything.

Edit: I found the labels for the motor wire slots. 3 of the 5 are labeled “322” and 2 of them are labeled “16A”. I guess my 3 wires go in the 322 slots?
 
Changing the wires to the “322” slots didn’t seem to be the solution. Now when I change the rpm(?), then click “mode” the VFD displays “Er”. I’m out of time this morning so I’ll have to wait till tomorrow
 
I have no idea how to help - the manual is REALLY needed to know what terminals to use and how to operate. Without the manual it's just a "guess and by gosh" which isn't very effective. Maybe Stacy can help -
 
I pulled up a manual for a slightly different model of the same VFD. So I’ll try the instructions in that one when I get a chance. Still no luck finding one for the exact model I have but hopefully most of the controls are standard across their models
 
Sorry, I can't really help you with the VFD. It was one of a batch I bought from industrial surplus. All were supposedly working, but manuals may be hard to find.
It looked pretty basic where the old wires were. Power in with ground and the three wires to the motor. It doesn't matter what order you put the motor wires in, but tge colors you chose sound right.
You may be better off to buy a cheap VFD off amazon or eBay if you can't get this one running.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Sorry, I can't really help you with the VFD. It was one of a batch I bought from industrial surplus. All were supposedly working, but manuals may be hard to find.
It looked pretty basic where the old wires were. Power in with ground and the three wires to the motor. It doesn't matter what order you put the motor wires in, but tge colors you chose sound right.
You may be better off to buy a cheap VFD off amazon or eBay if you can't get this one running.
Click to expand...
No worries, I did some deep diving into the manuals I could find and thankfully all of the models that look like mine share the same program settings. And I did find one manual that tells me what all the ports do, with suggested wiring set ups for on/off switches.

The reason the motor didn’t spin up this morning is because I had to do a first time set up/OEM reset for the programs. And I also need to wire a separate run/stop switch using some of the ports for add ons. Thankfully I have the switch for the old motor and can easily just wire that to the switch ports.

It has a reverse function but the switch you recommended is a much safer/simpler option, so I ordered it and should be here by my weekend. The built in reverse would have involved a second run/stop switch, which could potentially be flicked while the motor is running in forward… and I wouldn’t trust myself with that lol.

Once I have all the switches finally set up I’m going to use some sheet steel or aluminum I have on hand to make a cover for the VFD.
 
Sounds good.
One caveat - don't close up the VFD too tightly. It needs some air to ventilate heat. Also, don't cover the heat sink fins on the back at all.
Some folks mount the VDF in a plastic food storage bin and put a small pancake fan in it to circulate air.

When you get it up and running, send me the manuals and any tips on setting it up and programming. I'll stick that info in with the other VFDs I have from that batch. That might help someone else in setting one up.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Sounds good.
One caveat - don't close up the VFD too tightly. It needs some air to ventilate heat. Also, don't cover the heat sink fins on the back at all.
Some folks mount the VDF in a plastic food storage bin and put a small pancake fan in it to circulate air.

When you get it up and running, send me the manuals and any tips on setting it up and programming. I'll stick that info in with the other VFDs I have from that batch. That might help someone else in setting one up.
Click to expand...
I got it running!

https://imgur.com/a/RBpZFFb

Manual links:

The manual for the terminal bar most similar to mine https://files.valinonline.com/userfiles/documents/ac-tech-scf-drives-quick-reference-guide.pdf

^this one had the correct program and terminal bar info for my VFD, but was lacking in detailed info. For example it did not go into detail about what each program does, the SCL manual goes into that a lot more. It did have the correct wiring info for a basic switch though. Which was pretty simple (the 3 green wires in the beginning of the video above) But it referenced a manual for the SCL series as being the manual to look to for more detailed info.

The SCL manual

This one got into what I needed to know in a little more detail but it looks like it’s for a more simpler in function version of my drive (has less ports on the terminal bar than mine).

I reached out to a bunch of distributors for these AC Tech motors asking if anyone has access to the SC series manual but no one has gotten back to me yet. The SCL and SCF series manuals are all over the peace online though. I’ll update on this thread if anyone very gets back to me.

For anyone else with this VFD:

The SCL manual has a command you can enter for an OEM reset. I’d enter that on your first start up so all the programs are set to default. I’m going to do that for mine because I did noticed a few of the parameters are customized already for whatever it used to be hooked up to. So Instead of going through each program and then checking the manual to see what each function is set to I’ll just reset it and only change what I need to.

Right now I have it wired up to the old switch (regular old light switch) that came with my cart. The recommended “2 wire switch” lay out from the SCF manual is what I used. The Program slot for the start function is set to normal (start/stop switch). I recommend setting the breaking program to “coast” before you start it up for the first time. Mine was set to the DC breaking option and I didn’t notice until I flicked the switch off. Blasted my ears with high pitched feedback of the DC breaking, the motor stopped instantly though. it’s probably better on the motor to just coast to a stop, and for just turning a sanding disc DC breaking is probably overkill.


On the run program options
Once I have the 3 position switch here I will test out setting the run program to “automatic” which runs once the VFD has power. The manual doesn’t recommend this because it’s unsafe, but the 0 position on the switch would act as the off position. I’ll would make sure to set the speed to 0 when I am done using it for the day so on the next start up the VFD isn’t attempting to run from the start. I assume that would put some kind of stress on the VFD, attempting to run at X rpm with nothing to run.

I’ll update more when I get the 3 position switch and can check out some of the other settings more. There was one for dampening the frequency sounds coming from the VFD that I might adjust later. Mine is a little loud when the motor is running

Kevin
 
running bird said:
I got it running!

https://imgur.com/a/RBpZFFb

Manual links:

The manual for the terminal bar most similar to mine https://files.valinonline.com/userfiles/documents/ac-tech-scf-drives-quick-reference-guide.pdf

^this one had the correct program and terminal bar info for my VFD, but was lacking in detailed info. For example it did not go into detail about what each program does, the SCL manual goes into that a lot more. It did have the correct wiring info for a basic switch though. Which was pretty simple (the 3 green wires in the beginning of the video above) But it referenced a manual for the SCL series as being the manual to look to for more detailed info.

The SCL manual

This one got into what I needed to know in a little more detail but it looks like it’s for a more simpler in function version of my drive (has less ports on the terminal bar than mine).

I reached out to a bunch of distributors for these AC Tech motors asking if anyone has access to the SC series manual but no one has gotten back to me yet. The SCL and SCF series manuals are all over the peace online though. I’ll update on this thread if anyone very gets back to me.

For anyone else with this VFD:

The SCL manual has a command you can enter for an OEM reset. I’d enter that on your first start up so all the programs are set to default. I’m going to do that for mine because I did noticed a few of the parameters are customized already for whatever it used to be hooked up to. So Instead of going through each program and then checking the manual to see what each function is set to I’ll just reset it and only change what I need to.

Right now I have it wired up to the old switch (regular old light switch) that came with my cart. The recommended “2 wire switch” lay out from the SCF manual is what I used. The Program slot for the start function is set to normal (start/stop switch). I recommend setting the breaking program to “coast” before you start it up for the first time. Mine was set to the DC breaking option and I didn’t notice until I flicked the switch off. Blasted my ears with high pitched feedback of the DC breaking, the motor stopped instantly though. it’s probably better on the motor to just coast to a stop, and for just turning a sanding disc DC breaking is probably overkill.


On the run program options
Once I have the 3 position switch here I will test out setting the run program to “automatic” which runs once the VFD has power. The manual doesn’t recommend this because it’s unsafe, but the 0 position on the switch would act as the off position. I’ll would make sure to set the speed to 0 when I am done using it for the day so on the next start up the VFD isn’t attempting to run from the start. I assume that would put some kind of stress on the VFD, attempting to run at X rpm with nothing to run.

I’ll update more when I get the 3 position switch and can check out some of the other settings more. There was one for dampening the frequency sounds coming from the VFD that I might adjust later. Mine is a little loud when the motor is running

Kevin
Click to expand...

Awesome....
Just as a side note.

Be conscious of water.
The disk heats up steel fast.
I dip my blade often.

You need to worry about drips and splashes with electricity near by.... Yours is right there
Also where the disk Flings the water off its edge.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Awesome....
Just as a side note.

Be conscious of water.
The disk heats up steel fast.
I dip my blade often.

You need to worry about drips and splashes with electricity near by.... Yours is right there
Also where the disk Flings the water off its edge.
Click to expand...
That’s a good point. I was considering some kind of deflector for under the disc once I make a tool rest for it. I have a stupid amount of old roofing copper that I used to make some shielding go my belt grinder few years ago.

It’s worked really well, my motor for my belt grinder it’s very open and I haven’t had issues anymore with dust getting inside. Depending on how much material I need to make a shield/deflector I might just get some duct tubing and cut/form that into shape. Could be smarter then using all that copper…

I’m also going to work on getting all the wires covered and managed a bit more efficiently, once I bolt the motor down where I need it and get the last switch I ordered
 
Just to update you all I got the 3 position switch set up, didn’t get to test it out yet because I ran out of time. All I have to do it re-splice the ground wire for the motor and it’s all done.

I tested it out before I started on the switch and everything is pretty smooth. Cut and attached a 80grit sheet, tested it out on a few knives from the time out drawer. There is a tiny bit of I guess “belt bump” that I can feel, but the bevels on the blanks I was trying were still completely flat/smooth. it doesn’t seem to really be a problem but I’ll keep an eye on it.

Doesn’t seem the the disk is bent and it’s pretty even everywhere when I checked. The eye for the shaft might just be off a very tiny bit. But again I couldn’t see any uneven spots in the bevels on the blades
 
First, clean the disc well with solvent to remove and old glue.
Next, check the disc for wobble. You may need a snugger key in the keyway (you did use one?).
With no paper on the disc, run it on high and lightly touch some fine sandpaper to about 1" of the outer surface at the top to make a clean bright surface.
Then, run it on lowest speed. Bring a pencil down to the shiny top edge until it just touches, lifting after a revolution or two.
It should make a circle or most of a circle. If it only makes a short line, the disc has wobble.

It could be from the shaft/key connection or from a slightly warped disc.
There are many ways to deal with it once you know what the issue is.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
First, clean the disc well with solvent to remove and old glue.
Next, check the disc for wobble. You may need a snugger key in the keyway (you did use one?).
With no paper on the disc, run it on high and lightly touch some fine sandpaper to about 1" of the outer surface at the top to make a clean bright surface.
Then, run it on lowest speed. Bring a pencil down to the shiny top edge until it just touches, lifting after a revolution or two.
It should make a circle or most of a circle. If it only makes a short line, the disc has wobble.

It could be from the shaft/key connection or from a slightly warped disc.
There are many ways to deal with it once you know what the issue is.
Click to expand...
Good point about the key… might help if I actually had put one in there. One of the hardware stores by me sells bags of them so I’ll pick some up. I just tightened down the hex screw and didn’t even think about it…

I did clean the surface with acetone completely and got all the old adhesive off, if the key doesn’t solve it I’ll try out the pencil method.
 
So I got a wedge that fits the slot for the disk. That part at least for now is handled.

I have the switch wired correctly based off the manual for the switch and some videos I’ve found. But now for some reason when I power up the VFD and motor and 3 position switch in it’s 1, 0, or 3 positions the motor doesn’t turn. I know it’s not supposed to turn in the 0 position. I’m not sure if it’s the way I joined the wires to the switch or if this switch just isn’t compatible with this VFD?

I’d really hate to take apart the wiring I just set up for the switch but I’m not sure why else I wouldn’t be turning now… I used these tube wire connectors to connect the L1,2,3 wires from the VFD to the switch. Maybe these connectors just aren’t working/contacting correctly? (I included picture of the connector tubes I mentioned)

https://imgur.com/a/lsatGWF

The manual for the switch/videos on YT all said to wire ports 1-5-9 as one end (for me that’s the motor end) then to wire 3-7-11 as the other end (VFD’s end of the switch). So mine is set up:

Switch Position 1
Port 1=L1
Port 5=L2
Port 9=L3

Switch position 2
Port 3= L2
Port 7= L1
Port 11=L3

In my pictures it might look like the ground wire isn’t not connected, i had the ground wire just go around the switch so it’s just out of frame
 
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