2011 Forum Knife Picture/Review Thread

Can everyone check their's and tell me if the tips are flush with the liner or even stick on micro level mine does and it sucks i can run my finger over the liners towards the bolster and it'll catch on the tips.
 
Nope, mine does get the little chip in the middle from the spring, but a few more sharpenings will fix that. It's flush. Dang close, but flush. Sorry.
 
My 2011 sits where it should but my 2010 on the clip will spike me from time to time...my 2011 also hit the bump but after first sharpen it hasn't happened again.
 
has anyone taken calipers to this thing to see how thin it's ground right at the edge? I feel like this is the thinnest edge I've ever had. And I absolutely love it :D.
 
I checked mine and the tip is actually a tiny bit proud of the liners. I hadn't noticed it before. The tip of the blade on my harness jack sits below the liners. I'm not sure if I'll bother lowering the kick on the 2011 knife since it's barely noticeable... I might need to after sharpening. Love the knife though.

img738.jpg

2011 knife on the left, harness jack on the right
 
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My knife is 100% no tip proud and no hitting the backspring.

OP could try a VERY gentle filing of the kick, very little mind, that should settle the tip.
 
I hadn't noticed it, but mine is a bit proud also. It appears to be very similar to what Jake has pictured.
 
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I have two GEC knives out of a drawer full that have this issue. It bothers me on clip points/ drop points because it can catch your hand when you fish around for your knife. With that said, I have thought of filing down the kick. I don't want to until the blade is sharpened away some because I don't want to rid one issue for a much more annoying one. That being the edge hitting the backspring. I have to ask, if you sand/file down the kick would this let the back spring sit lower in relation to the liners when the blade is closed? If this is maintenance forum info sorry, I will make a post over there :) I just figure the traditional guys in here have done this.
 
Hi stwesterner -

My example is close, but the tip is not even slightly exposed.

I did sharpen this knife some to correct a little grind irregularity at the tip of the spear.

best regards -

mqqn
 
No such a problem, the blade is in its place to tip is reviled. I had little nick in the blade due to blade hitting the spring, but I solved the problem with little sharpening. Mike
 
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I don't have the 2011 forum knife, but I can tell you that I have owned numerous knives with the tip exposed or nearly exposed. I love GEC, but they are definitely an offender in this regard.

Fortunately, it is usually an easy fix. Just file the kick down a tiny bit, and it will sink the tip.

However, having heard about the edge hitting the backspring on this 85 pattern, I don't know if I would mess with the kick in this case. You could take a coarse sharpening stone and reshape the tip, removing the point in the blade that is exposed and therefore dropping the point a little bit so that the closed handle covers it. I have done this quite a few times on various knives.

I have also used a Dremel to reshape tips, particularly on SAKs. I am not a craftsman by any stretch, but I have achieved results that I was very happy with using either the Dremel or a sharpening stone to reshape a blade tip.
 
Dangerous suggesting a dremel, especially near a thin tip. And especially with a steel tempered around 400 degrees. Or am I way off on this one?
 
richstag said:
Dangerous suggesting a dremel, especially near a thin tip. And especially with a steel tempered around 400 degrees. Or am I way off on this one?
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing before I tried it. First time I tried on an old Girl Scout knife. I had a little cup of water to cool the blade. I have since learned that if you are removing a relatively small amount of metal, the blade really doesn't even get hot. I also go very slow. If you are going to grind for a minute at a time, then heat would likely be an issue? But when I have used this method the Dremel grind wheel is only touching the steel for a few seconds at a time and the blade does not get hot to the touch. Along with the Girl Scout knife, I have used the dremel on a Wenger SI and a few other SAKs with no problems.

Just my experience. But you do have to be careful with a Dremel. Even that tiny grind wheel will remove metal very quickly compared to any hand-tool method.
 
richstag said:
... I have to ask, if you sand/file down the kick would this let the back spring sit lower in relation to the liners when the blade is closed? ...
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I over filed a kick on my Case stockman to lower the super proud sheepfoot blade. I know I over did it since the backspring is now a tad lower than the liners. Not a big deal to me since I've been carrying the knife for 10 years, it's about ready to be retired to the drawer anyway.

Go easy.

Mark
 
richstag said:
Dangerous suggesting a dremel, especially near a thin tip. And especially with a steel tempered around 400 degrees. Or am I way off on this one?
Click to expand...

I agree. Using a power tool for material removal, whether it be at the kick or tip, is only asking for trouble IMO. Either way, so little material is being removed, it only takes a few minutes with the proper hand tools, if that.

Kevin, I'm not sure if anyone has answered your question, so here is my personal experience. I have a GEC #73 that was a tad proud in the tip. I resolved it by removing a ridiculously small amount of material from the kick. I don't think doing so lowered the backspring when the knife was closed. That said, though, this is how the backspring currently sits on this knife:

When closed, the backspring sits very slightly lower than the liners. It may have been like that before though; I just don't remember as its been awhile. At the half-stop, the backspring drops down a bit and sits a good amount lower than the liners. Fully open, the backspring is flush with the liners, but sits above the spine of the blade. You gotta love GEC!!! :D Hope that helps somewhat. I guess my point is that if your backspring and liners are flush in all positions, I might not mess with the kick. If they are not though, you may not see much if any difference after removing a little material from the kick.

Edit: I see Mark has beaten me to it. :thumbup:
 
Nick, just thought a warning was a helfpul addition.

Thanks Mark, I was trying to visualize the mechanics in my head. Makes sense but your experience validates my thoughts.
 
Thanks Chris, I knew it wouldn't effect the half stop or open, just the closed :)

Appreciate it.
 
The tip of the Spear Blade on my 2011 Blade Forum knife rides nicely below the liners and there is not now nor has there been any flat spot detected from blade contact with the liner. Further, the Screwdriver/Caplifter blade rides nicely in the liners and since I touched up the hollow of the caplifter, it opens capped bottles nicely too.

The Spear Blade on my 2011BF specimine came very sharp and I have only touched it up once on a set of ceramic rods.

As "nphelps4130" said,

Just my experience. But you do have to be careful with a Dremel. Even that tiny grind wheel will remove metal very quickly compared to any hand-tool method.
Click to expand...

The key word there is "careful". More than a few guys have used a Dremel Tool on their knives with no ill effect. Some even tape the blade edge to avoid surprises.
 
My 2011 knife blade is just a tiny bit proud. You would have to really try to cut yourself (or have the skin of an infant) but it's there.
The backsprings are so dead nut flush on mine when closed that I dare not mess with the kick. It is my experience that removing material from the kick will lower the spring, some more than others (or seems that way anyway), and I don't want to mess with that on this one.
It was mentioned a few posts back about the spring riding low at the half-stop. I think every GEC I have is that way, and have always assumed that was on purpose. It seems to give a harder "stop" than if they were flush. My Queen Trapper is just the opposite. The springs ride high at the half-stop and the blades feel like they could almost go right past it.
 
FLymon said:
My 2011 knife blade is just a tiny bit proud. You would have to really try to cut yourself (or have the skin of an infant) but it's there.
The backsprings are so dead nut flush on mine when closed that I dare not mess with the kick. It is my experience that removing material from the kick will lower the spring, some more than others (or seems that way anyway), and I don't want to mess with that on this one.
It was mentioned a few posts back about the spring riding low at the half-stop. I think every GEC I have is that way, and have always assumed that was on purpose. It seems to give a harder "stop" than if they were flush. My Queen Trapper is just the opposite. The springs ride high at the half-stop and the blades feel like they could almost go right past it.
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I don't know if the half stop thing is intended or not. If it is then the handful I have with the backspring flush in all positions was a fluke. I want to agree though, perfectly flush in all THREE positions is not the norm I have found with GEC.
 
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