The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Man is the plain 1095 they're using now so much quicker to take a patina.
1 apple got me this .
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Go for it.I love a small sheep foot secondary and clip main. I may have to build up the courage to do the same you did.
I want to know the answer in time.see if it can nudge out the half whit as a top watch pocket choice... time will tell the tale...
I like that! If I didn't really "need" a pen blade on my watch pocket knife, I'd probably copy that. Both of the blades on mine had pretty abrupt recurves right at the tang... I'm just gonna get as good an edge as I can without trying to completely remove it. As it ages, and I continue to sharpen it, it should gradually go away. I seldom cut anything that far up the blade anyway....I'm pretty pleased with mine.
Aside from the grind on the secondary the F&F came pretty good.
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If the secondary was ground better and or a regular pen blade instead of like a mid length spear blade I would have left it, but I decided to turn it into a sheeps foot.
It still needs a little work, but it's gonna be a great knife when I'm done.
I'll keep you posted, amigo....I want to know the answer in time.![]()
Awesome.This one arrived today... the red bone in carbon steel. This is a nice knife. It's about a quarter inch shorter than the half whittler, which is one of my favorites, but the main blade is actually larger than the half whit's. Fit and finish is really nice, with the only flaw I found being a hairline gap at one of the backsprings. This doesn't bother me, but it does bother some folks, so there it is. The action is a touch "slow" in closing, but I think that will disappear with a flush of the joints. The edge grind is a little swoopy close to the tang, which I plan to straighten out.
The red is a little lighter than I expected, especially at the bolsters.
This feels very nice in hand, and I look forward to carrying it some, to see if it can nudge out the half whit as a top watch pocket choice... time will tell the tale...
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A flush brought some life into mine as well.The swoopy grind is not terrible on mine, just a little more than normal. I can still get an edge on it without grinding it all the way down. I figure that it will gradually be worn away through normal sharpening. Mine is considerably snappier and smoother since the joint flush. This is a nice little knife....
I may still try the dye job to darken the bone a little... just because.
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A flush brought some life into mine as well.
Yes... I use CLP, but nearly any good machine oil will do.... even straight mineral oil works well... and put 2 or 3 drops in the blade well with the blade open, then work it back and forth, opening and closing it fully, blotting the spine occasionally... I keep doing that until the oil blotted off is mostly clear... no more black or gray color. I do each blade individually.... you are basically "washing" the polishing compound residue and any metal filings out of the joints of the knife..... plus, lubricating it, of course. It might take 2 or 3 rounds of this to clear it, depending on how much gunk is in it.Do you guys just flush the joints with oil?
Yes... I use CLP, but nearly any good machine oil will do.... even straight mineral oil works well... and put 2 or 3 drops in the blade well with the blade open, then work it back and forth, opening and closing it fully, blotting the spine occasionally... I keep doing that until the oil blotted off is mostly clear... no more black or gray color. I do each blade individually.... you are basically "washing" the polishing compound residue and any metal filings out of the joints of the knife..... plus, lubricating it, of course. It might take 2 or 3 rounds of this to clear it, depending on how much gunk is in it.
Yes... I use CLP, but nearly any good machine oil will do.... even straight mineral oil works well... and put 2 or 3 drops in the blade well with the blade open, then work it back and forth, opening and closing it fully, blotting the spine occasionally... I keep doing that until the oil blotted off is mostly clear... no more black or gray color. I do each blade individually.... you are basically "washing" the polishing compound residue and any metal filings out of the joints of the knife..... plus, lubricating it, of course. It might take 2 or 3 rounds of this to clear it, depending on how much gunk is in it.
So.... you prefer smooth to crunchy?The Pen blade on my Patriot Kirinite was pretty gunked up. W&T actually got worse the first three times I flushed, felt crunchy. Started getting better after that. Both knives have a bit better feel afterwards. Going to do a few more off and on over the next week.
So.... you prefer smooth to crunchy?
Actually, I had a knife do that to me, also.... I wonder if flushing with some solvent, like Hoppe's or something like that might "break up" the residue better? I'll have to try that, next time...
I use mineral oil and compressed air.Do you guys just flush the joints with oil?
I have had great success with this, it is designed to actually clean air compressor tools. If you put some in the joints and just leave it for a while, the oil runs through it and comes out looking like gunk, readily available, cheap and has a nifty little dispenser on it. Can be used on oil stones as well if need be.I wonder if flushing with some solvent,
I'll have to give that a try.... I've used Marvel Mystery Oil in the past, for other things...I didn't know they made an air-tool oil.. I found their oil to be pretty effective, back when I used it. Thanks for the tip....I have had great success with this, it is designed to actually clean air compressor tools. If you put some in the joints and just leave it for a while, the oil runs through it and comes out looking like gunk, readily available, cheap and has a nifty little dispenser on it. Can be used on oil stones as well if need be.
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