Welcome to day 23 of my WIP. I figure I should start off by showing my mistake before showing the replacement handle
I had this block laid out, cut, drilled, and most of the tang hole shaped when I decided to take a short cut and use a hand drill to make the hole a little deeper, as you can see I drilled just a little deep. The block wont be wasted, because I hadn't cut it down to its width yet so I can use it for scales some place else.
So yesterday I started all over again with another block of Bloodwood. The first thing I did was get the tang laid out on the block after scrapping off all the wax. The blocks are a little on the narrow side so I have to angle the blade to get things to fit. Then I draw in the general shape of the handle and make sure to leave enough space top and bottom to be able to take it down to my finished size.
After I get everything laid out I cut out the profile on the band saw then clean it up in the belt grinder with a used 60g belt and very low speed, around 10-15% on my grinder.
You will notice that there are 3/16 thick lines at the front and back of the handle, they will be cut off and ground down after I get the tang fitted. I do this so that I can have room for error, and the ability to square everything up afterwards.
Now I layout for my tang hole, normally I do this in pencil, but it wasn't showing up on the camera so I scribed in the lines and went over them in marker so they would show. My lines were a little off on the back so I just eyed up my mark
I actually centre punch my holes because this wood is a bear to work with and since I am drilling on an angled face I need all the help I can to stay on my mark. The hole from the butt end is even more of an angle so I made a flat spot with my dremel tool.
After a few hours of work with my homemade broache I had the tang fitted to the handle.
Next was putting it together with my temporary guard and pommel so I could draw in my lines to taper the handle.
I keep everything oversized just so I can work into my final shape and not have to worry too much about chip outs or going too far. Yes it makes a bit more work, but it is just easier for me to adjust and keep things even with more room to work.
After I take everything apart again I cut the taper into the handle, put it all back together and draw a centre line top and bottom. These are my work to lines, they leave about a 1/4 of flat top and bottom that is easily rounded out with some sanding.
Next I break out my rasp and start working the squarish block in to a smooth flowing handle. I start on the top and work a bit on ones side then the other till both sides are equal by eye then flip it over and do the bottom.
Once I get it to a reasonable shape I smooth out most of the rasp marks on the slack belt of the grinder and do some shoe polishing to blend it all together.
I will have to use the butt of the handle to make a proper size pommel, but the general shape of the guard will stay the same.
After about 4 hours of working on the new handle this is where I am at on the second one.
and the recurve using the same pommel and guard.
And last but not least for today a picture of my ugly broache, it works like a dream even though it looks like crap
Right now I am waiting on the wrought iron I bought to show up and I can start making the real pommels and guards for these two, and hopefully I can find a suitable piece of antler to do the third handle with before the end of the week. Once I have the last handle roughed in I will clean up the sanding on the blades, wash them down and send them out for HT