5 or 6 Loveless patterns - The Road to Pasadena Knife Expo

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May 23, 2008
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Pretty new; I have immensely enjoyed Mr Wheeler's more recent WIP and the older WIP done by Mr Vestal. So I am going to give it a try.

This will document the building of my 5th -11th Loveless patterns. My first 3 are long gone and my fourth is rusting on the bench (a testament to the fact that D2 is not stainless). There will be a few tips/tricks and I encourage comments. These are as close to a Loveless knife as my current ability will allow. The first sequence is a bit boring. I started taking pictures not intending to share and then thought that people might find this interesting so the pictures get better. So that said here goes:

01lotsofeffort.jpg

A small sample of the beverages that were injured during the making of this

1patterns.jpg

A small sample of patterns. My thought is that if I am going to imitate somebody's work; do it correctly and faithfully! Part of that faithful duplication is that all my blades come from steel patterns. I am enough of a weirdo that I would show up at the Loveless shop with plates of steel and scribe patterns to steel instead of risking the transition from steel/paper/steel. I also go through this process with my original designs.

2Scribe.jpg

Clamp a pattern to steel and scribe the profile; I think pretty self explanatory.

31profile.jpg

My weapon of choice when it comes to profiling blades (A vintage Powermatic metal cutting band-saw; I love older equipment). IIRC it weighed in at a whopping 1200 lbs. Don't mind the shop It came to a screeching halt when I was diagnosed with cancer. At least there is a roof and four walls (29x32 with 10' walls) just wish it was insulated.

32almostprofiled.jpg

Tough to see (scribe lines intact)but these are cut to profile; pretty close but will need some grinder time.

33profiled.jpg

Ground to profile. I try to split the scribed line so that my finished product is as close to the the real thing as possible.

4milleddrilled.jpg

As compared to the previous picture you can see the guard slots milled in along with bolt holes and lanyard tube holes. These two steps are critical to getting a Loveless pattern as close as can be to an original. In previous posts I have thanked those that have helped me to get this far in my short knife making career (1.5 yrs), I would like to also thank (genuinely) Mr. Garsson for providing the impetus to get to this point. I will simply say that he made a comment (in the normal Garsson way) to me a while back that pushed me into finding out as much as I could about Loveless knives and about making them. I still know nothing but I am learning by the day.

5groovedfortaper.jpg

6groovedfortaper.jpg

Ready to taper tangs. I "groove" the handle area straight out the butt of the knife instead of trying to make a divot in the center of the handle. I use a height gauge and surface plate to scribe reference lines on the butt and then grind the groove from guard to butt to the depth of the scribed lines.

To be continued...
 
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You better get moving if these are going to be ready next weekend!
I will look for you at the show.
 
It's Garsson, silly lad!

I'll be at Pdena on Friday about noon and want first right of refusal on the fighters, so hold them please....even if you handle them in ugly green micarta.;)

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Mark this is an HIDI (How I Do It) not a WIP, they are mostly done.

Steven evidence of my mad typing skills! I am giving the "sexier" knives a try.
 
David,
They look great.As with all your work great detail at each step of the process.I look forward to seeing you at the show.Everyone stop buy and check out Davids knives.He won't say it but I will.He makes a great knife.

Rick
 
I'm back:

7Flattenedplaten.jpg

A key to tapering the tang is a FLAT platen or a disk sander; I have a surface grinder and currently find the platen easier, so this platen gets flattened regularly.

8tapering.jpg

I have seen a number of tools/devices used to hold the blade while tapering the tang but so far a large welding magnet works for me. It's large surface makes sure that even pressure is applied (guard to butt). Sorry forgot to shave my knuckles!

9tapered.jpg

6 knives tapered. Referring back to the pre-taper groove; I have a tendency of going overboard. I rough out the groove with a 50 grit belt and finish at 400. I have a fear of deep scratches causing issues with stress risers (goes back to my Off-Road fab days).

10tapered.jpg

Top view.

I forgot to mention that the 5 knives are the following models:
Chute
Mini-Wilderness
4.5" Utility Hunter
Traditional Stiff Horn
Two different Utility bladed Stiff Horns. I have a number of odd ball patterns that show the evolution of some of the Loveless patterns. The larger knives are CPM154 and the smaller 154CM.

11surfacegrind.jpg

Getting rid of the mill scale; easier on the belt supply. Also a flat blade blade is easier to mark for edge thickness and grind height.

12scribed.jpg

Nothing fancy a granite surface plate and a height gauge to mark the edge thickness.

13gauge.jpg

A Loveless/Merritt grind height gauge.

14guageused.jpg

In use. This simple gauge eliminates the need to get a blade plumb to a height gauge or the possibility of your calipers being cocked and having the two sides different. In other words mirrored scribe heights.

12scribe.jpg

The Chute and Mini-Wilderness with the grind height scribed, hunter with only the edge scribed. It should go without saying that the grind height gauge only applies to fighters.
 
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Really nice, David:thumbup: I'm bummed that I had to back out of Pasadena. I'm sure these will do very well.

Thanks for sharing the process!
 
great work so far David. Thanks for showing us how you do things, I picked up a trick or two already. Cant wait to see the finished pieces. Have a good show.
 
I will look forward to seeing your knives at the show.
Probably should look for you early on Friday before you know who buys them all.
Just teasing.
Looks like they will be very well made knives.
 
I picked up one of those welding magnets after seeing it on your blog. Thanks for the pictures, looking forward to seeing more.
 
Pasadena knife show this friday? Oh heck yeah, I didn't want to cut that tree down anyway :D. I can hit the knife show, and then go pick up my new double barrel.
 
Great thread David.:thumbup:
I've learnt a bit already...namely using a welding magnet to taper tangs. It looks as though it might resist heat a bit better than my thumb.;)
Thanks for sharing this with us.

Ian
 
Thanks guys! The magnet may not be perfect but it definitely protects the fingers and as I stated allows you to apply even pressure.

Ron, Friday at a knife show is much better than cutting down trees...unless you do it like Lorien!

So here we go:

15leadinset-up.jpg

Most of you have seen a grinder; here is mine set up for the lead in grind. It was freezing so I turned on the only source of heat in the shop, 500 watt construction lights.


16leadin.jpg

I am very particular when it comes to the lead in grind. I find that if I am not precise at this step my plunges and edge thickness never catch up.

16Remark.jpg

You'll notice in the previous picture all the machine blue is gone. It wore off while doing the lead in, this is where the simple grind height gauge comes in handy; re-blue, re-scribe and grind away.

1610wheel.jpg

17multiplatentoraiseheight.jpg

With these knives I used both the 10" and 6" wheels. The 10" is a bit low but the 6" might be okay if I did my grinding on my knees. I use a multi-platen; this allows me to pivot the smaller wheels to a more comfortable height. After this show I have another one set up so that I can do similar to the 10".

171Radiusedwheel.jpg

You can just barely see how the corners of my wheels are radiused. I can still grind a straight edge, but if you grind any type of curve it does not have a tendency to "dig" in almost eliminating 2" marks in my case and allowing for killer plunges.

18grinding.jpg

I grind entirely free hand. My first four knives were done with a blade holding device and work rest. I believe it hamstrung me. I also like the idea that I could go to anybody's shop and grind; I am not limited to my shop and fixtures and jigs. This picture is a bit past rough grinding but I wanted to get the picture in. I was fighting with how to get action shots; I think I failed.

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Rough grind at 60 grit

191roughgrind.jpg

194roughgrind.jpg

And 220. I don't subscribe to the theory of cleaning up after HT. My grinds are as close to 100% as I can get pre-HT. In my very limited experience there is nothing worse than trying to work a grind line higher or a even up plunges on hard steel. I think this is when most of the "accidents" happen (rolling a plunge up into the ricasso or going too far and breaking the spine, etc...).

Only 75 more pictures to go!
 
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Nice grinds David, i'm taking notes.
Wondering about wheel size?
Hunter 10"
Chute and wilderness 6" ? I'm guessing
 
David,

The work is looking great.I am with you on those nice clean lead in grind lines.That puts everything on the right track. I can't wait to see more.

Rick
 
Awesome WIDI David,
Im really digging the lead in grind that you do, ill be given that a try.
Greg
 
Some beautiful grinds there David.
Couldn't agree more more about the lead in grinds...I've just ruined a Wilderness by getting the grinds wrong at the tip. After working out where I'd gone wrong (and watching the Loveless & Johnson DVDs yet again!) I figured getting the lead in grinds/plunges spot on to start with would help eliminate the problem...so far it has made Wilderness No2 a lot easier.
On the plus side, I've learnt that a ruined Wilderness makes a pretty decent hidden pin boot knife...every cloud eh?:D

Ian
 
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