A timber for hewing

That would work fine, Tom.

RJ, this one log dog I have was home made, just something I banged out real quick while working on another project. I need to make another - or likely 3 more. I didn't figure on this size of timber when I made this one. It works but it's a little small. So I need to make a match for this one plus a pair of larger ones.

I can offer a couple of pointers. Make the turns long, at least 6" long. Something I learned from looking at historical log dogs in a museum is that the points should be shaped like a cold chisel not just a point. And the chisel edges should be rotated 90° from each other. That way each end of the dog enters the wood in line with the grain. Does that make sense? Also, make your corners nice tight 90° bends. They're easier to drive into the wood this way.
 
if you end up buying log dogs, Lee Valley has the best price I've found for good, full-size log dogs.
 
Square_peg said:
That would work fine, Tom.

RJ, this one log dog I have was home made, just something I banged out real quick while working on another project. I need to make another - or likely 3 more. I didn't figure on this size of timber when I made this one. It works but it's a little small. So I need to make a match for this one plus a pair of larger ones.

I can offer a couple of pointers. Make the turns long, at least 6" long. Something I learned from looking at historical log dogs in a museum is that the points should be shaped like a cold chisel not just a point. And the chisel edges should be rotated 90° from each other. That way each end of the dog enters the wood in line with the grain. Does that make sense? Also, make your corners nice tight 90° bends. They're easier to drive into the wood this way.
Click to expand...

Thanks, there is a Roy Underhill episode where he visits a blacksmith to have a dog made. He makes one just as you describe with the rotated chisel points and square (upset) corners. Here is an image of the dog:

spikedog.jpg


Full video here:

http://www.clicker.com/tv/the-woodwrights-shop/iron-work-for-timber-work-2979156/

Unfourtunatley, I don't have the skills or equipment to forge one.:(

Looking forward to seeing more of your work on the log.
 
Peg, Thanks for sharing your project with us. It's something that I wouldn't tackle at my age, but I'm glad you will keep us updated.
Thank you for the advise on the off set chisel points for the log dogs. It makes lot of sense. I was us going to grind a point on them. The chisel points should bite better and hold better.

Great project, Double Ott
 
Square_peg said:
Excellent video. That blacksmith was incredibly patient in regards to having another person so close to the anvil while he was working. I know that had to be irritating as heck. That's a great way for a bystander to get burned real bad.
Click to expand...

Roy is a rather flamboyant fellow, to say the least ;)
 
I got started on the actual hewing today. First up is doing the layout on the small end of the beam. Whatever beam size you lay out on the small end will fit easily on the large end.

Here I made the mistake of starting my layout on an uneven end. I had to go back and smooth off this end and lay it out again.

Hewing_1.jpg



I smoothed up the end with my Lancelot carving tool. A chainsaw would have done just as well but the saw was out in the garage and the Lancelot was handy.

I like to start with center lines. I mark the measured center, discounting any bulges on the log when I make the measurements. The measured center of a log seldom matches the center ring of the log but in this instance it was pretty dang close.

Hewing_2.jpg



Next I needed to decide what size timber to hew. I'd rather have a pair of 4x12 beams than a single 8x12 beam. So I laid out an 8-1/2 x 12 figuring that I'll split it with the chainsaw after I've hewed it to size. This picture was taken at the end of the day but it shows my layout.

Note that there was a little more meat in the upper half of my log than in the lower half. My beam center doesn't need to coincide with my log center. In this case I laid out my beam skewed slightly above the log's center.

Hewing_12.JPG



Here's the layout on the other end. There was damage to this trunk just below where I cut this piece and as a result there's a little bit of rot in my log. I skewed my layout a little to one side to get away from the rot.

Hewing_3.jpg



The reason this tree died this summer was because it was girdled by a steel cable. It used to be part of a cable ride for the kids. The change in the appearance of the cambium layer is do to the girdling.

Hewing_4.JPG



What good is a thread about axe work without some axe porn for the boys?
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Here are a few users that I planned to try out on this project. From left to right:
Un-named 8lb. broad axe with 29" haft
Stiletto 4lb. double-bit with 36" haft
Vaughan 4lb. single-bit with 36" haft
Marshall Wells 3-3/4lb. single-bit with 34" haft
True Temper broad hatchet
Stubai broad hatchet
True Temper adze

Hewing_5.jpg



I started notching the 'juggles' with my Marshall Wells. I just love the feel of this axe. The shape of the swell or grip of this axe is perfect for me.

Hewing_6.jpg



I tried out a few other axes to see what worked best for this work. The first 4 notches on the left were done with the M-W. The next 2 with the Stiletto, then 2 with the Vaughan, one each with a 3lb. 30" Collins and a 2-1/4lb Craftsman 28" boys axe.

My first thought was that I would want a full length haft (36") for this work so that I wouldn't have to stoop over as much to reach the bottom of the log. But I found myself needing to choke up a bit when working the top of the notch. So I tried a couple of shorter axes, the 30" Collins and the 28" boy's axe.

All of these axes did fine for this work. But I found I liked the 30" length best (I'm 6 feet tall). I cut the last 2 notches with the 30" Collins and the 34" M-W as a comparison. The grip of the M-W made it my favorite over-all. The lesson I came away with is that comfort and feel are just as important as size and weight.

Hewing_7.jpg



Knocking off the juggles with my Marshall Wells.

Hewing_8.jpg



An action photo.

Hewing_9.jpg



Here the first side has been rough hewn. The next step is to come back and clean it up with the broad axe.

Hewing_10.jpg



There's a little extra work left around a few knots.

Today's work went much faster than I anticipated. It took only a little over 2 hours to get it to this point including the time spent doing layout. I was happily surprised.

Hewing_11.jpg
 
This thread is made of awesome.

So it looks like you did layout on both ends, then connected the endpoints from each end with lines on the log surface.
Then you chop these juggles to an even depth until the top and bottom guide lines are reached?
Do the juggles come off easily and cleanly notch-to-notch?
 
That is a helluva write up Pegs!
Thanks for taking the time to put it all together. Very impressive!
I like the axe use explanations and pics :D
The hewing job ain't so bad either :p

Thanks :)
 
daizee said:
So it looks like you did layout on both ends, then connected the endpoints from each end with lines on the log surface.
Click to expand...

Correct. I snap chalk lines across the top of the log. Red chalk is the most rain resistant so I chose that.

daizee said:
Then you chop these juggles to an even depth until the top and bottom guide lines are reached?
Do the juggles come off easily and cleanly notch-to-notch?
Click to expand...

I chop the notches about 1/2" short of the line. I don't have a bottom guideline - I couldn't see it anyway. I just eyeball the notch cut plumb. I'll finish hewing to the line with the broad axe. If I decide to clean up the finished timber with the adze then I might snap another line so that I have 2 lines to work to.

Some times the juggles come off easy, sometimes knot! Knots and weird grains don't come off cleanly. In that case I just make a bunch of shallow cuts in the trouble area and then chip off the pieces.

I've only done one of these before. It's as much a learning experience for me as for most of the members reading this.
 
Oh man! Looks like your having funs!
I really like the looks of that 36" Marshall Wells and the shape of that 8lb broad axe is intriguing.
Thanks for this thread!
 
You are haveing to much fun. This is great.
How does that Marshall-Wells steel compare to your other axes? I just picked one up this past week end and am awaiting a handle. Some one actually had it hung on a double bit handle. Price was right and the head was pretty good. Mine has a Zenith label on it but it looks alot like yours. Steel might be a little softer than some of my other axes but it did take a keen edge.
 
The Marshall Wells has good steel. Under the file it compared well to other quality vintage axes like Collins or True Temper. Checking it just now it still shaves but not as smartly as it did a couple days ago. I expect you'll be pleased with your new M-W.
 
Progress photos.

I cleaned up the hewn face with the broad axe this afternoon.

Progress1.jpg



I'm starting to get the feel for this axe. It has taken some time for my whole body to learn where the back side of this axe is. That sounds weird but that's what it takes to use the tool efficiently. When your body mass is moving in line with the back side of the axe then the work becomes easier. At 8 pounds you can't finesse it with just your forearms for very long.

Progress2.jpg



Side one done. The vicious hounds in the background will play like that for hours.
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Progress3.jpg



End view.

Lacking another log dog I made do with a hunk of 2x4 and a couple 16 penny nails.

Progress4.jpg



I've started notching side 2. Just for fun I tried notching it with a little cruiser axe (like Dick Proenneke's). It works but I sure the heck wouldn't want to do this work with just that little axe. I felt like I was attacking this Doug Fir timber with a pocket knife. Gimme a good single bit, 3-4 pounds, with a 30" to 34" handle.

Progress5.jpg
 
Nice pics. I like that single bit in the last pic. I like you're size range in handle you mentioned too. My favorite full size axe to use is my 3.5lb Dunlap on a 33" handle. Can't wait to see more SP
 
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