A timber for hewing

Boy I sure like that broad axe Pegs!
I've been trying to justify a reason for me to buy one.

Ha ha!!! Come on now, Bear. You never know when you'll need one. It's best to have at least one on hand, just in case. :D

There's only one reason to have one. So once you buy it you'll have to go hew something to justify the purchase. Think of the fun you'll have!
 
Progress photos.

I cleaned up the hewn face with the broad axe this afternoon.

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I'm starting to get the feel for this axe. It has taken some time for my whole body to learn where the back side of this axe is. That sounds weird but that's what it takes to use the tool efficiently. When your body mass is moving in line with the back side of the axe then the work becomes easier. At 8 pounds you can't finesse it with just your forearms for very long.

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WOW Peg !!!, If one can live vicariously through anothers actions, I sure am. Loving the progression of your work. I'm amazed at your progress, it is moving along much faster than I thought it would. Thank you so much for sharing your work with us and your thoughts as you try different tools for the work.

My regards, Tom
 
A lot of trees down from the hurricane, so I will probably be hewing some beams, joists in the coming weeks etc. I was like a kid on christmas morning going for a stroll to inspect “my” new trees. People love you for taking care of them around here.
 
Ah, yes. Windfall profits! Sad to see them come down but it would be even sadder to see them go to waste.
 
I finally got to spend some time with this timber again. I picked up where I had left off, notching the second side.

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Next I knocked off the juggles. Occasionally I find a stubborn one that won't knock off easily. I've learned to just work these back in smaller sections starting close to the next notch. It goes pretty quickly this way.

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The juggling work is done while standing on top of the timber, the same as the notching. I stop a little short of my line, leaving about 1/2-inch of material to clean off with the broad axe.

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I prefer to work backwards when hewing. This way the area in front of me is clear and I can swing the axe without catching the tip.

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I find it easier to work if my footing is close to the same height as the bottom of the timber. I set up a little walkway to help get me in position.

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I keep one foot on the walkway and the other up on the timber. I've gotten comfortable with this broad axe now and swinging the offset handle feels more natural. And I'm confident that I won't bark my knuckles. This frees me to put a little more muscle into the stroke and makes the work go faster.

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The work is going much more quickly now. Juggling and hewing this side of the timber only took about an hour.

Most of the works was done with the single bit axe and the broad axe. But areas where the grain did weird things was more easily finished with smaller tools. I used a little German-made camp hatchet and an Austrian broad hatchet in those areas.

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Side two came out relatively straight though I undercut it a little in a few places. I think I'll clean it up with the adze once I lay it down to hew the next side.

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A final shot of my primary hewing tools. I really love the feel of the handle on this old Marshall Wells single bit. It's easy to work with. Both of these tools are still extremely sharp after this work.

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I was wondering what had become of this project. Glad to see its coming along, weather and all. Looking good Pegs and thanks for the update.
 
be sure to pick up all those chips and flakes. they are excellent tinder, and hewing one side gives you enough for a couple months of firestarting.
 
Yes I would, Sam. I bet a fellow with your smithing skills could bang them out in a jiffy.

I haven't been on the blacksmithing forums much lately. You been keeping yourself busy?
 
Here and there hehe. Been workig this past couple of weeks completely overhauling my boss's spear making production process, going from being a bit of a PITA to clean up and not looking really right, to being an awesome traditional looking product that takes half the time to do.

What length would your dogs be if you had a pair?
 
It would depend on the size of the timber I was holding. The dog I made was 16" between the points and is really too small for this timber (originally 18" at the wide end). The 16" would be fine for a 10" timber. For this 18" timber I would have liked to have a pair about 26" long.
 
Thanks. The M-W was an estate sale find just a few months ago. I was pleasantly surprised to find such a nice original handle. Old axes survive. Old handles don't.
 
Peg,
This is awesome. I love the behemoth. Need to get one of those up here in this part of the country. Thanks for letting us live vicariously. One day... one day........
 
Have you been using your adze at all? I have hewn a couple of 9 footers, an 8 footer, and a couple of short pieces with more logs for girts and joists still in the woods. Moving heavy logs without petrol powered stuff is hard-- hewing in the woods makes it much easier. I just hewing with a double bevel axe (I have used at least 6 over the last few weeks, varying from 2 pounds to 3 3/4 pounds) and finished with a lipped shipwrights adze. The adze leaves a really beautiful slightly scalloped finish.
 
I'm not to the adze phase on this project yet. I've just been too busy with money making work. But I've been looking at those lipped adzes and I think they'd be great for finishing a timber. Without the sharp corners you wouldn't have to worry about gouges so much.

When you're moving those timbers are you making a skid road or just dragging them on the ground? I did a small bridge in the woods by myself a few years back and I never could have moved the main beams to the site without a skid road - even though my road was crude. Dropping 3"-6" branches across the trail is all that is needed to make a usable skid road. Also, driving sturdy pegs into the ground at key points can help keep your timbers on the skids. With friction overcome you can do amazing things. On a very special 'skid road' I once moved a 2-ton piece of pre-cast concrete into place by pushing it with the fingertips of one hand.
 
I'm not to the adze phase on this project yet. I've just been too busy with money making work. But I've been looking at those lipped adzes and I think they'd be great for finishing a timber. Without the sharp corners you wouldn't have to worry about gouges so much.

When you're moving those timbers are you making a skid road or just dragging them on the ground? I did a small bridge in the woods by myself a few years back and I never could have moved the main beams to the site without a skid road - even though my road was crude. Dropping 3"-6" branches across the trail is all that is needed to make a usable skid road. Also, driving sturdy pegs into the ground at key points can help keep your timbers on the skids. With friction overcome you can do amazing things. On a very special 'skid road' I once moved a 2-ton piece of pre-cast concrete into place by pushing it with the fingertips of one hand.

Most of what Ive been hewing so far was blow down near roads. I would rough hew where it fell, flip it end over end up until I could balance in on my “log dolly” (actually an old wagon), using some ice tongs in place of one of those timber carriers. Once its on wheels its not hard to move over a paved surface. Moving the other timbers I might get that are further out in the woods will be harder. I havent figured that one out yet. I would like to move them out by hand if I can, and we have done a couple, but I need to come up with a more polished process.
 
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