A User That Is OK To Be Abused?

K

kalashnikov101

Joined
Jul 22, 2013
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I recently broke my endura 4 while doing some wood work with it. I am going to send it to spyderco to get it repaired, but the question I have is this. Is it better to have a mid-ranged priced knife to beat up on like crazy? Or to get something cheaper (like a Rat 1) to do everything you can throw at it till it breaks (Then just replace it) ? I know you get a lot of benefits from using a knife like the endura 4. But would you use it for some of the toughest stuff you can throw at it? Or like I said, just get something good but cheap to do the dirty work?

Thanks in advance!
 
Why abuse it? Choose the right tool for the job, and have at it. (Sometimes, even the right tool breaks)
 
I would advocate something like the $25 Rat-1 that you mentioned. Great knife, and tough. But if you think you are going to be destroying folders, maybe you should consider 1) not destroying them :), or 2) getting a fixed blade, or 3) employing other tools like pry bars. You must have been giving that Endura some good torque if you broke it woodworking, eh?
 
Never have understood those looking for a knife to abuse. If you are abusing a tool you most likely using the wrong tool for the job at hand.
 
kalashnikov101 said:
I recently broke my endura 4 while doing some wood work with it. I am going to send it to spyderco to get it repaired, but the question I have is this. Is it better to have a mid-ranged priced knife to beat up on like crazy? Or to get something cheaper (like a Rat 1) to do everything you can throw at it till it breaks (Then just replace it) ? I know you get a lot of benefits from using a knife like the endura 4. But would you use it for some of the toughest stuff you can throw at it? Or like I said, just get something good but cheap to do the dirty work?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

The RAT 1 is a great knife but the construction is not very rigid. When you use one hard you can feel it flex. When you twist it to pry out some wood from a notch or feathers you can feel the whole knife twist under light force. Great slicer, won't hold up to hard wood working use though, probably wasn't designed for that anyway.

Get a small fixed blade. If you're going to get a RAT for hard use then get a RAT3. This is what most would consider the right tool. I don't see hammers or saws or screw drivers carving wood too well so it has to be ;)
 
I thought about a fixed blade but I just never got used to carrying around a sheath... Do you have any folder suggestions?
 
Cold Steel Recon 1 (4") or Mini Recon 1 (3") in AUS8 can still be found in the mid-$60s.

How about a fixed blade? You can get a 4" Mora Craftline, Classic, or Companion for $9~$14 that'll handle woodworking a lot better folders.
morakniv-craftline-q-546-thumb.jpg
mora-of-sweden-morakniv-fixed-classic-red-no-1-thumb.jpg
morakniv-campanion-black-thumb.jpg
 
Yeah, if you are definitely into folders, then one of the Cold Steel knives - whatever flavor suits you. The Tri-Ad lock may be the strongest in the industry. Look for AUS-8 (largely discontinued) if you want less expensive.
 
I use the Spyerco Pacific Salt for my rough work. It's about $65...f I break it or lose it I just buy another. I've never come close to tearing one up but I've left a couple on the bottom of the ocean. :(

As far as the abuse issue, who cares? Its your knife to use however you wish. :)
 
powernoodle said:
Yeah, if you are definitely into folders, then one of the Cold Steel knives - whatever flavor suits you. The Tri-Ad lock may be the strongest in the industry. Look for AUS-8 (largely discontinued) if you want less expensive.
Click to expand...
I love cold steels customer service, but I just haven't gotten their knife designs to grow on me yet... One of the reasons for that is that I had a recon 1 that had a chunk of blade right in the middle break off...
 
If you are doing things that you think will eventually break the knife, or lose it, then I would suggest a lower priced knife that you could replace. Of course as some people suggested you could always get a significantly stronger knife or stop doing what you are doing.

As for batoning, you should not do that with a folding knife, and if you have to do it with a folding knife I've read that you are supposed to do it with the blade unlocked. But if you really insist on batoning, I second the recommendation for a fixed blade in a steel that has a reputation for toughness.
 
And when I say abuse I say it because of the people that borrow my knife. Not because I do it myself. I have had people cut a plastic sheet with my knife... the only thing was he was using the sidewalk as a cutting board which completely messed up my edge. Another incident is when they used the knife as a screwdriver... there was no edge to the tip after that as you can imagine. I know many of you will say to just not let them use my knife anymore but I actually am kind of curious to see how much each knife can take.
 
TravisH said:
Cold Steel Recon 1 (4") or Mini Recon 1 (3") in AUS8 can still be found in the mid-$60s.

How about a fixed blade? You can get a 4" Mora Craftline, Classic, or Companion for $9~$14 that'll handle woodworking a lot better folders.
morakniv-craftline-q-546-thumb.jpg
mora-of-sweden-morakniv-fixed-classic-red-no-1-thumb.jpg
morakniv-campanion-black-thumb.jpg
Click to expand...

+1^^^^^^^

Get yourself a Mora 2/0 and a Mora carving knife and you will likely have it forever.
 
I would recommend and Estwing hatchet for splitting wood. Maybe use smaller branches to start the fire and then add the larger pieces. The only reason I've ever seen for splitting wood is if the wood is drenched like after an all day rain. If you must split wood though, no knife does it as well as a hatchet.
 
My cousin has a RAT-1. Ive seen him do some SUPER hard prying with it.
I've watched him throw it.
I've watched him stab stuff with it.
I've watched him use it as a screwdriver.

It's still fine.
You'll be hard pressed to break a RAT-1.
 
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