A User That Is OK To Be Abused?

And when I say abuse I say it because of the people that borrow my knife. Not because I do it myself. I have had people cut a plastic sheet with my knife... the only thing was he was using the sidewalk as a cutting board which completely messed up my edge. Another incident is when they used the knife as a screwdriver... there was no edge to the tip after that as you can imagine. I know many of you will say to just not let them use my knife anymore but I actually am kind of curious to see how much each knife can take.



If you're that curious to find out, you'll end up wasting large amounts of money so other people can mess up your knives for you. It's that simple. Nobody will respect property the way the person whp paid for it will. A knife, like any other tool or object, has its limitations, regardless of the design or the manufacturer. Maybe a better option would be to tell your friends/coworkers to buy their own knives, and see how well THEIR knives hold up.

Jim
 
I have a Benchmade 710 D2 that I have used for that very purpose. Actually used a small log to pound the blade into 2" sticks to split them down to fire starting size. I first held the handle lightly in order to position it with the stick close to the handle. I then drove it into the stick to be split, like a wedge into a log. Once the blade was fully into the stick, I tapped on the point side of the blade using strong down force on the handle in order to balance the force. Took some rocking up and down of the handle to reset the blade for another hit. It loosened up the blade but it was still very usable for the rest of the trip. Tightened it up when I got home.

I was in a group of 15 that were mainly pastors with a few of us to herd them. No one knew that there was a hatchet and ax in a corner of the cabin until hours after I had started the fire. We had gas camping stoves for cooking but it was close to freezing during the day and well below after dark. Heat was important.

I no longer work like I used to but the 710 is really tough and would have stood up to anything I have ever abused a knife for. Sometimes the tool must pay the price to get the job done. Having said that, I have always had some type of multi-tool in my car, truck, bag, checked suitcase, etc.. If you need pliers/grips, almost nothing else works. I have used 2 sticks and a piece of wire or a belt buckle at times but a Leatherman in a belt pouch is hard to argue with.

I got my son a Benchmade 810 Contego. He has had people borrow it and abuse the hell out of it. It stays sharp and holds up. I recommended it to a friend of mine that hangs wallpaper for a living and has absolutely NO respect for his knives at all. He thought I was crazy for recommending he buy an almost $200 knife instead of the cheap knives he has been using for decades. I told him If it did not meet his wildest expectations for a work knife and improve his productivity that I would gladly buy it back from him. Over a year later he has it in his pocket all the time and has gotten one for his son also.

Long winded way to say that there are blades that fold that can be used for what is needed and hold up. They will take a hit and show the scars of their life, as we all do. However, some makers allow you to send the wounded solider back for R&R (resharpening or re-bladeing).

Also, and not a minor thing, there is a sense of pride and security having a well built and capable cutting tool in your pocket. A good friend you can count on.
 
i do still love my bm 710 in ats-34,i've gotta start carrying it more. they do hold up to alot of abuse and just keep cutting.:thumbup::thumbup:
 
I have an all stainless (blade and handle) lock back that I found in the street. Medium size tending toward small (not as small as my Buck 505) . I think it says Nappa on it. You know . . . the car parts stores.
I fits perfectly into a watch pocket like pocket on my clip on at work tool pouch. (not the same as my clip on pocket on the other side with the three SAKs).
I keep it for when I need to cut something and I know the edge is going to run into a surface that is going to F it up.
I can't remember the last time I used it. Pretty much never. But like a nuke in a silo it's just nice to know it's there in case you need it.
Kidding
I'm kidding.
 
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I have a BM 710-1401 and that thing is a beast!!
I don't really beat on it, but sometimes you have no choice and need to use what's on hand.
What a great all arounder that also looks super sexy!!
 
ZT 301 works for me. If I have to hack at something larger I keep this cheap full tang Paki Bowie in the back of my truck and use it like a heavy machete.
 
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i do still love my bm 710 in ats-34,i've gotta start carrying it more. they do hold up to alot of abuse and just keep cutting.:thumbup::thumbup:

Wow. an ATS-34 BM710! Great classic EDC! I really love the ATS-34 blades. There is just something in them that makes them beautiful when polished up a bit. I have a Gerber liner lock of some kind that is ATS-34 that I have had on my desk or next to my armchair for many years. It does not get carried outside anymore but gets used most days. Irreplaceable.

Great knife you have there.
 
Abuse-dedicated knives I'd recommend:

Enlan EL01 and similar chinese cheapos, Spyderco Pacific Salt (or any Spyderco Salt knife, really), CRKT Minimalist Wharncliffe, KaBar Dozier, Ontario Utilitac II, most CS Folders with TriAd lock, like the Recon 1 or the Voyagers, Opinels are also good and cheap

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thanks dazzleaj, i don't get it into rotation as often as i should, so it hasn't seen too much abuse lately. it's always been a good fit size wise for me, and ats-34 does polish nicely.
 
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i just edited my post for spelling and wrote as reason speeling. gah,gimme more coffee!;)
 
I'll say this: you're stupid for batoning with a folding knife. Get a fixed blade if you want to do that. People have broken Benchmade Axis lock batoning and that has a reputation for strength.
If want to go cheap and do that, get a Mora. Once you get folders that'll withstand that abuse (to some extent) you'll end up having a big pry bar that can't cut squat.

If you want a cheap, strong folder get a Rat 1 or ESEE Avispa/Zancudo
 
don't get me wrong, i don't advocate batoning with a folder, but sometimes you have no choice. if you want a slick set up for that find a froe and tomahawk head that fit the same handle-problems solved. except for that whole weight problem.but that's kinda movin' away from the op's original point. use whatever you want and spend however much you want-it's your knife(knives), paid for by you,loaned out by you ,to do with what you want. (for some reason i want to start singing the national anthem here:) )
 
I work in a nasty dirty environment underground mining and an above ground mill after I got past the idea of abusing it it has been crazy indstructable I carry a emerson commander the smaller one and it has been crazy tough the tip is like unbreakable and and the design is simple easy to disassemble and clean the lock is surprisingly super strong I got mine for a 100 bucks used on ebay and put a conventional v grind on it if u wanted a cheaper option I second the recon 1
 
I was doing some light batoning to start a fire... And while I was doing it the lockback bar broke right where it makes a 90 deg. angle to lock the knife...

Ya, I'd never baton an endura or other light folder. In fact, I don't think I've ever done that to a locking folder. I will admit, I cross grain batoned a thumb thick stick with a stout slip joint before. I wanted a clean cut at the precise length. And, if I am honest, I had a hand full of big fixed blades on hand at the time. It was for grins.

I have Cold Steel folders that would handle it, but I would not unless it was an emergency. Wrong tool for that job.
 
I thought about a fixed blade but I just never got used to carrying around a sheath... Do you have any folder suggestions?

Opinel #9 or #10, in Inox.


This is the closest thing to a Mora in a folding knife that I've used. The blade is slightly convexed, and as a result, hands wood working better than any full flat blade (or hollow grind) that I've used.

NEVER EVER RELY ON THE OPINEL LOCK RING TO PREVENT THE BLADE FROM CLOSING. IT'S NOT REALLY DESIGNED FOR THAT AND CAN BE OVERCOME WITH MODERATE PRESSURE.

The durability of the Opinel has to do with the durability of the joint and it's ability to withstand ridiculous of lateral pressure that will destroy the pivot of many folding knives. It is also almost impervious to developing horizontal blade play from excessive cutting pressure.

The handle of the Opinel is wood, and as is the case with wooden axe handles, the wood itself can break and as with axes, the smaller the Opinel, the more likely you can actually bust the wood. I've read reports of people busting #7s and #8s but never of busting #9s and #10. As with axe handles, if you have the opportunity to select an Opinel by hand, try to get one with the grain running vertical on then end of the handle, and not horizontal.

Opinels can be one hand opened and closed, but it requires some practice.

Opinel by Pinnah, on Flickr


With respect to battoning, the #10 will withstand mild battoning so long as you: a) disengage the lock ring so it's a free-swinging friction folder and b) don't go crazy trying to blast through knots or cross-grain.

I carry an Opinel for backpacking (I rely on a stove when backpacking) but switch over to a fixed blade in the winter if I'm planning on using my wood stove. The Opinel will batton wood in an emergency but really, a fixed blade like the Mora is so much better.
 
Ya, I'd never baton an endura or other light folder. In fact, I don't think I've ever done that to a locking folder. I will admit, I cross grain batoned a thumb thick stick with a stout slip joint before. I wanted a clean cut at the precise length. And, if I am honest, I had a hand full of big fixed blades on hand at the time. It was for grins.

I have Cold Steel folders that would handle it, but I would not unless it was an emergency. Wrong tool for that job.

I believe that one of the purposes of the old traditional Elephant Toe pattern (aka vest pocket axe) was for battoning through rope and lines.
http://www.mclemoreauction.com/auct...he-Vintage-Elephant-Toenail-Sunfish-Knife.pdf
 
My choice for a tough folder is the svord peasant knife. If you're carrying only a folder, I would alter your approach for fire starting. Learn how to make feather sticks and wedges.
 
Folders are no good for batoning, no matter what lock type they have. A sturdy fixed blade or (more appropriately) a small hatchet would be perfect for that kind of task. Or if you intend to split huge logs and don't want to carry too much gear, look into using wedges.
 
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