A2 impact resistance and edge retention

Jakers said:
This is my totally unscientific observation of a2.

I have a 7" Bowie made from a2 with a 30 degree bevel and ground a little thinner behind the edge than my esee 6. It holds an edge WAY longer and despite its keener edge is really tough. I went kinda wild with it in the woodpile for a good 30 minutes chopping dirty 2x4's and batonning through seasoned knotty elm. Most of the wood had a thin layer of old mud on it too. It really surprised me, not even a rolled edge. I would probably call bs if I hadn't done it myself. It makes me wonder what Nathan's 3v is capable of!

I don't usually beat the hell out of my tools but just wanted to test out the geometry and heat treatment. Btw, it was hardened to 60 and cryo treated by peters.
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That's awesome info thank you for sharing that. Who was the maker if you don't mind me asking?
 
Cobalt said:
This is what S7 can do when thru hardened to 58 Rc with a top HT.

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A2 is my favorite using steel. Plenty tough for most applications, takes and holds a fine edge and easy to re-sharpen. Now the above steel, S7 IMO is in a class by itself.
Scott
 
Scott,
I see S7 on larger blades on your website, also 3V, A2, and O1 on other models. If you don't mind my asking, do your knives sell better if 3V than other options, such as A2? Bark River used to be all about A2 and still uses it, but much more 3V than before as well as stainless options. I assume that is driven by demand more than application, given that many of the 3V options (for example) are on models originally or still offered in A2. A2 when lower pricing is the priority?? Given that this thread is about A2, it seems like A2 is still a very good choice.
 
Scott... I need this in my life.

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Jakers said:
This is my totally unscientific observation of a2.

I have a 7" Bowie made from a2 with a 30 degree bevel and ground a little thinner behind the edge than my esee 6. It holds an edge WAY longer and despite its keener edge is really tough. I went kinda wild with it in the woodpile for a good 30 minutes chopping dirty 2x4's and batonning through seasoned knotty elm. Most of the wood had a thin layer of old mud on it too. It really surprised me, not even a rolled edge. I would probably call bs if I hadn't done it myself. It makes me wonder what Nathan's 3v is capable of!

I don't usually beat the hell out of my tools but just wanted to test out the geometry and heat treatment. Btw, it was hardened to 60 and cryo treated by peters.
Click to expand...

There have been several patterns I've made with both 3V and A2. 3V has better abrasive wear resistance, higher gross toughness (resistance to breaking or blowing out a primary grind) and better corrosion resistance. But good A2 can hold its own with 3V in many ways, particularly edge stability.
 
dogrunner said:
Scott,
I see S7 on larger blades on your website, also 3V, A2, and O1 on other models. If you don't mind my asking, do your knives sell better if 3V than other options, such as A2? Bark River used to be all about A2 and still uses it, but much more 3V than before as well as stainless options. I assume that is driven by demand more than application, given that many of the 3V options (for example) are on models originally or still offered in A2. A2 when lower pricing is the priority?? Given that this thread is about A2, it seems like A2 is still a very good choice.
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There seems to be level field when it comes to what sells. It's the models that sell more then the steel type. I do sell more S7 and A2 with the Tusker model. I also use 4V which I like better then 3V. Keeping on track with the OP question, I've used and abused A2 for 12 years and it has become my favorite all around steel. Thanks Charlie Mike.
Scott
 
8"?

Let me know when you make a 7" in S7 or 4V.
 
Noob93,
Sorry I don't know how to put other posts into mine yet. I was the maker on that one. It's certainly nothing special. I suspect the added edge retention over my esee 6 was do to the steel being hardened to 60 as opposed to 57? I don't know if it's exceptionally tough as I've never really abused a blade like that before but it's certainly impact resistant enough for me. As the first chopper I've ever made I had it in my mind to put a keen edge on it, then beat on it and dial the edge back a little until I was satisfied. It turns out 30 degrees was about right.

Nathan,
Thanks for replying, I have always thought of edge stability and overall toughness as very closely related.

On a side note I'd like to thank you for your input on these forums, it's nice that there are so many knowledgeable folks around that are willing to take the time to explain things in a non-condescending manner.
 
Here's an A2 steel blade I just recently finished. This oak was extremely hard. IMO, A2 has very good impact resistance and edge holding.
Scott

3my2.0_zpsl5lt6fke.jpg
 
Gossman Knives said:
Here's an A2 steel blade I just recently finished. This oak was extremely hard. IMO, A2 has very good impact resistance and edge holding.
Scott

3my2.0_zpsl5lt6fke.jpg
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Beautiful work that looks like it can really cut too with that wide full flat grind. If you don't mind my asking do you keep it at 58 for those big guys for extra toughness? The charts seem to say it's the same at 58 as it is at 60 for toughness. I do find that hard to believe.
 
I run my A2 at 60 with excellent results for any size blade. A2 at this hardness is at it's best.
Scott
 
noob93, here's a video showing impact toughness and edge holding of A2.
Scott

[video=youtube;juiCEVGd-TY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juiCEVGd-TY[/video]
 
Gossman Knives said:
noob93, here's a video showing impact toughness and edge holding of A2.
Scott

[video=youtube;juiCEVGd-TY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juiCEVGd-TY[/video]
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Awesome I think that's pretty d**n good considering all that chopping. That things a beast and I appreciate the video Scott!
 
My pleasure. With all the rage with the super steels, a lot of these long running carbon tool steels still do the job and do it well. I personally like A2 as an outdoor knife working steel. For what most use their knives for, it gets the job done. If you don't mind the staining and patina, A2 is an excellent choice.
Scott
 
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