Africa...

^that's pretty funny. Andy, great commentary and pics; some of your pics remind me of the field research I did while earning my doctorate... nothing quite as down and out as the many towns and villages you passed through, but similar enough. Social science aside... this croc camp has my attention!
 
Yes... now I have been outed....my true identity burned... !!!! I will be getting autograph and appearance requests for years now...!!

I have a bit more actual editing today and some lawns to mow etc (its Saturday here already) on top of fighting off a dose of Ebola....well it feels like Ebola... :( ;)
 
So... "Croc Camp" .... "Band Camp" but with teeth you ask ??? I don't think so.

The Nile Crocodile (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nile_crocodile) is a little different than the local variety found here in Australia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saltwater_crocodile) but not too much. I note from the Wiki entry (yes taken with a grain of salt) that the Aussie version gets larger and seems more aggressive (true of the average Australian man I would suggest as well... ;) ). In reality I think the differences on these points are mostly academic. If either decides you are lunch you are lunch. I DO think much more is made of Croc attacks here in Aus than they are in Africa (in fact I am positive of this !!!! ) and in fact MANY more people are taken (even per capita) than here. This is a factor of the living arrangements and how the populations of Croc and Human are stacked upon each other all across Africa. One big difference between the two, I CAN legally hunt the Nile Croc... :)

So the Croc Camp backs onto the Zambezi River up in the mid north of Mozambique. Puttering along the river (in a boat that seemed entire too small to me ;) ) we ended up around 10km from the Malawi border. If I was Madonna I would have nipped up and acquired another child...but I am not.

The morning started with watching the sun come up across the river...





And my first look at my "Ship" for this part of the trip...



Camp here, was comfortable but a little louder than at other locations as there is a small village just outside the boundary fence of the camp.







A fire pit and deck of course...



Croc hunting is accomplished two fold, figure out where the big lizard is frequenting on shore (they, like the Aussie version are VERY territorial) to sun themselves, set up over these spots and wait and the other, find the big lizard and stalk in close enough to shoot. I got to experience both and both have their challenges.

On shooting a croc. There are three generally accepted spot to hit them. Forward of the shoulder, where the spine and head meet (found by following "the smile" back and aiming there) OR striking the brain, to do so you have an area a little larger than and egg to hit in the area just behind the eye. The reality is that if you want to ground the lizard right there and not risk it kicking its way back into the water (and generally being lost) it is the third and hardest option that is required. On trophy fees.... a shot and a miss can cost you the fee (at the discretion of the PH, if he even suspects a wound you will pay), a wounding costs you, a kill but a lost body costs you. The fee is US$3K so there is some small amount of pressure around the shooting part... ;)

Croc hunting hours are however VERY civil, they don't come out of the water till the outside temps rise and the sand etc warms up. So no crack of dawn starts ... :)

The first avenue we tried was some local knowledge about where a large croc was appearing. It was a good hour upstream from camp...

Our Captain...



Obano....yes, (seeing as he was our tracker) I did at one point ask him if he "had seen any croc tracks yet" as we motored upstream.... I think he was being polite by not answering to start with till he figured out it was humour...



Typical view as we motored around the river. These are actually sandbars that are mid river... just when you think you are "on the other side" (as the sandbar with plant life and such is a couple of KM long) you realise you are no more than the middle !!!



The other significant in habitant of the Zambezi is the Hippo.... and there were lots of them !!!





Where a croc is going in and out of the water is what you are trying to figure... of course till you scurry up there you don't know which it was nor where they are !!!



A little lizard...



Another "Puddle Pig" ...





Soooooo.... after the motoring and taking in the sights we got up to the area where a croc of some size was suppose to be frequenting. On the trip up we saw a few but nothing of size. On size...I didn't just want to "shoot a croc" I wanted a larger croc (must be the Australian in me ;) ). On this river 11- 12 feet are considered trophies, over 12 to 13 are something !! I really did want to find something around the 12 or so foot mark (as a minimum), but hunting is just that, not to order, you just need to keep working at it and hope a little luck comes you way as well.

Getting ashore is fun as you are not just running up on the sand, that's because they us generally where the big lizards bask and "one does not wish to bother them" (apply English accent here). So "The Captain" runs the boat nose first into the reeds or against an almost vertical shore and you scramble up, then pass up your gear.

Once on the sandbar or shore you go find a spot that gives you a view of where it is you want to watch, that is done by working a combination of clearings and "hippo tunnels", the name was lost on me for a little, through the vegetation.... then you wait.

Working through one of the tunnels...



... I chose the hands and knees method of movement but each works... :)

Sooooo....what now.... well YOU WAIT and hope for the big lizard to decide to come and take a little sun on the sand (Mankini optional) !!!! In this case, well over an hour before anything at all happened.

A note on crocs... I have been around the Saltwater variety a little in my life, enough to respect them greatly but also to have an understanding of getting a bit close to them. The Aussie version is MUCH easier to get close to. I am sure that is a factor of no hunting pressure and far fewer people in their environment. I was to discover that the Nile Croc (in this area at least) was very very attuned to threats and were off back into the water ASAP...!!!!! Better to find this out early !!

Soooo after about an hour the resident lizard showed up....and it was in fact a good sized crocodile....



... but after some looking and looking I (and taking Boet's advice !!) decided it was not big enough for me. Probably in the order of 11-12 feet but it is hard to gauge till you are close and with a tape in hand !!

Once I had decided that this one was not a shooter I thought I will move in and get some better pictures... this is when the difficulty of hunting them struck home. I am not sure what it was, wind, noise, a glimpse (I doubt the later as I was on all fours in the reeds) but I got not further than 10yds closer than the pic I took above and the mouth slowly closed (not startled response, very considered) and the big thing gently slid back into the water and almost vanished !!!!



In hindsight it may NOT have been me that caused the issue but I think it was, that said this guy....



...was in the water not 20yds from that sand. Now remember when I said I was in a "Hippo Tunnel".... the reality of this then dawned on me.....!!!! It IS a tunnel that hippos make and use regularly !!!!!!!!!! :eek: .

OK... back to the boat (there was a famous line from the movie Apocalypse Now playing over and over in my head the whole time I was out on the river BTW !!!!! ) ... ;) .
 
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Oh man! Amazing, just amazing... I can think of a few lines from movies for these circumstances, including Jaws--"I think we're gonna need a bigger boat." As for Apocalypse Now... when you were in the "tunnel" it reminded me of the tiger that jumped out of the bush... a hippo charging would be just as nasty!

What an amazing trip...
 
What an amazing reportage!
Pics are outstanding and the story is more! It almost :D feels I'd given you that $3k for you to take a shot.
 
These are some of my favorite threads all year long (except the Ganza ones ;) )
Puddle pig? Sounds like a new offering ..
 
Those are excellent pics and a wonderful story about your adventure. Thank you for sharing, I've dreamed about going to Africa to hunt for most of my life.

I also want to say thanks for helping me pass the time while I sit in the woods waiting for a white tail to show up. The hours spent in the field waiting for the meat to show up can occasionally drag on, a good read helps. I'm looking forward to more pics.
 
Anyway.... with that avenue not working we decided to head back downriver to another large sandbar that is frequented by crocs. One issue we were facing in the morning was that the river was up (it regularly rises and falls during the course of the day depending on what is happening upriver (which may be all the way up and almost into The Congo) so the amount of rise/fall is a bit unpredictable. As we headed upstream a number of the areas the big lizards like to bask on where underwater. On the return journey the river had dropped and more places were appearing !!!

Our first stop was a big overgrown sandbar that is split by a small channel. Apparently crocs like to move into this channel and bask on small sand patches. We put the boat in and started a careful walk toward the channel... the closer we got the thicker the growth till it was back down onto hands and knees in a "Hippo Tunnel" the reality of this situation also was driven home as I had to skirt a fresh and still steaming Hippo Turd !!!!!! The same tunnels are used by crocs to get further into the sandbars !!!! We slowed where the tunnel opened onto the channel and started to look around, yes there were indeed Crocs here, big enough to eat you but still not large enough to take (well not for me - still Australian after all). We eased back out and around to the boat and commenced motoring downstream.

The picture below is of the sandbar described above. You can see a good sized Croc laying there catching some rays. That spot he/she is laying in where the channel through the sandbar enters, this Croc is one of the ones we were looking over...



And just a little further downstream was another lizard taking in the sun...



We then turned the boat toward the far side of the river, and yes, thanks to the aforementioned rise and fall of the water, the depth of the Zambezi at any given point can vary greatly. He is The Captain trying to restart the motor after we motored into a very very shallow part and stalled. That sandbar we hunted on is there in the distance behind. ..



...about two minutes after this we completely bottomed out about 1/2 way across the river, this required us all to alight the "boat" (here in Aus that little thing is called a "Tinny") and walk it off the sand...yes...walking in the middle there, it started ankle deep and I levitated back into the boat at a bit past knee deep. I can tell you, all good sense said it was OK, no Hippo or Crocs just here, too shallow, I could see them coming anyway...yep all good...sure it is....no problem at all....let me back in that freaking boat NOW...... ;) ;) ;)



How the locals roll...



And why... sadly... people form a stable part of the Crocs diet here on the river....





.... that is a home, one of many in on the sandbars. LOTS of people live in those big weeds. You can see the worn path down to the water where they fetch water and enter/leave a boat. Such regular activities are bait for Crocs who will hunt just like we do. Look for patterns of behaviour and start to target these. Sadly at one point we saw what it looks like what Croc meets human :( and a Croc taken in the Camp earlier in the year did contain easily identifiable people parts... :eek:

Still motoring down stream there were more of the locals out....



And great WHITE (Lilly White) Hunter being fried by the African sun !!! ...



By now it was well past lunchtime and so we put in onto one of the sandbars. After a quick walk around we settled in and had some lunch (left over Cape Buffalo steaks :) ) by the river. I also managed to find a little place I was thinking of making an offer on as a fixer up/ weekender... ;)

It was then back in the boat and further downriver....we were now well below our camp. We came down and to a looooong and bare sandbar that, earlier in the day was well underwater. With some great luck and no skill or forethought...we decided to put in and have a walk around on it. Boet also suggested we take a "Great White Hunter" pic or two. On this, understand that I don't at all take myself very seriously and tend to have a good deal of fun with most subjects... :D :D

So I give you... "Great White Hunter" (note the sandbar is still wet from being underwater just an hour or so earlier) .....



I should add that the lead in to this pic was the fact we could see a Croc out in the distance basking and were in fact looking at it... as it went...we all started looking harder AND harder !!!

This is what we could see (full zoom from where we were standing) ...



At this point we were all in agreement that this was a pretty good sized Croc (if he looks big from a distance then he probably is)... but he was in a REALLY tough spot to hunt and hopefully get into a position to shoot. He is actually laying right on the end of a small point created by another channel of water flowing through a large sandbar, in this case it is where the channel exits back into the river proper. Having seen how coy they are and how little of this Croc is actually out of the water it was going to be tough (one flick and he was back in deep water). In the end we decided to get the boat to take us downriver and across to the far bank. We would then (hopefully) be able to work our way back up undetected and into a spot where he could be better appraised and maybe a shot taken.
 
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This was tough going, it was HOT as the sun was now at it's peak, the plant life was well over head high and it was a case of weaving between the natural growth and some tightly planted corn and tomato bushes, it was also really tough to get a feel for the wind as well. We would bounce back out to the edge of the water to take stock and then back in. At the edges you realise that you are not at all on firm ground but actually walking/standing on tightly grown reed beds. After close to an hour of this we were up where we could see the Croc, and it was obvious that he was one I would take a shot at (despite he only being part way out of the water (his body from midway was sill not at all visible). It was here that Boet again started reiterating the need for a good hit, given how much of him was still submerged he thought only the brain shot would do, the closest we were going to get was now (just shy of 100yds). He made it clear several times that if I had any doubt DON'T SHOOT !!!! About the third mention of this I think I said just let me get on with it... ;) ;)

For this pat I made use of his "shooting sticks" the quintessential African safari accessory ;) I prefer offhand, a tree or my pack but none of these were an option here, so I got them at height and settled in. Lots of breathing and concentration and the odd thought of wasting US$3K on an errant shot... :eek: So bang.. :) It was one of those moments that as the shot went off I KNEW it was good, not suspect but knew. Each and every part was right. None the less Boet asked was it and I said yes, he was not so sure and had me fire again and then again, one in the neck one in the shoulder. The neck shot went high, I knew it as I fired, but the next was fine. Given that after the first round Mr Lizard had not moved at all I was of the belief that shots two and three were not needed but I also knew that Boet ONLY had my best interests at heart.

From the where the shot was fired..



With some zoom...



So now we had to wait for the boat to arrive and there was no way in hell I was swimming across that channel ;) When here did get to us there was no great spot to board so he went out and turn it bow into shore and sped into the reeds as much as he could....then we jumped... :)

On arrival it was clear (that as suspected on my part) shots two and three were not required... but from where we were situated none of this was at all visible... ;) You can also see how the high second shot grazed the neck (very annoyed about this).



The consensus from all (The Captain, who is a local, especially) was that this is a good Croc... Boet figure a solid 12 feet. Then it was time to load the boat, to do so a handle is made by tying a length of wood across inside the mouth to use as a handle. I offered to help but was told its OK...



.... but that pic was as far as they could get !!!! Down went the camera and I jumped in. That fugger was HEAVY !!!!! And as we pulled and pulled lizard just keep appearing out of the water...!!!!! Finally in the boat and ready to head back fully across the river and upstream. This was NEVER going to be a quick trip...!!!



In the scheme of less than well thought out things to do, Boet suggested I move forward for a picture on the way back...



.... if you look closely you can see how low in the water the bow of the boat has dropped and we almost came to a halt....I resumed my spot at the back of the boat ASAP... ;) ;)

There was some serious discussion back at camp how this lizard was going to get from boat to shore (given the steep banks and the weight of the thing)...



The answer was WINCH !!!!!!



Once on shore and laid flat it was apparent that this was a good Croc (size wise) he was a little thin (having emerged from winter rest recently and in need of a meal) but looong....






...and to be honest the size just can't be appreciated from these pics...or from the Croc on the ground....!!!!

There is also an alternative version of how I killed this Croc, it is saved for those nights when a gullible crowd is present and the beer is flowing freely.... ;) ;) :D







But the reality is..



As we were toiling at the riverside one of the locals stopped by and thanked us for taking the Croc !!! Just a few weeks before a 12yo girl was taken from the edge of the river about 100m downriver from where we were here. She was "lucky" that, unusually, the Croc grabbed her leg and just swam away (no rolling or diving etc). A boatman paddled out and beat the lizard with an ore and it released the girl. She lived, but lost the leg. There is no speculation that this was that Croc, be they were happy none the less...



Boet suggested that, to give a real indication of the size (yes we had put a tape on it by now ;) ) we go put it up a tree !!! Can I say, easier said than done !!!!

We loaded it into the back of the Nissan and drove up into the camp...



Now clearly we all know what is happening here, you will recall I was crowned King of Mozambique earlier in the trip.... it is obvious I have climbed the tree and now everyone is worshiping....



.....don't believe that ???? Really ??? I am shocked....!!!! OK...so, it appears that it is easier to get a message to the guy up the tree about which limb the cable should go over, if everyone on the ground points and shouts at the same time.... ;) ;)

Can I tell you, that Nissan was bouncing forward the whole time Mr Scaly was getting lifted up !!!



And there....



....looks big right !!!

How about some scale...



...and NO I am not a bloody midget !!!!!! ;)

A foot...



And I have to say I do love the colouration...



Back down on the ground and a close up of where the first shot landed ... :D





Then the skinners got to work !!!







So length wise. In my language... 4.5 metres (or 14 feet 10 inches). Yes, I was pretty happy with that :) :) :D
 
Welcome back Andy! And thanks for sharing! Nice to see the blue skies and mosquito nets! haha

Cant wait to hear more! and see... of course! just no selfies! haha
 
Wow, what a BEAST that Croc was!!! :eek: Very nice shot! :thumbup:

So, what now? New boots? A few new knife sheaths? :cool: ;) Do you get to keep any of the hide at all?

Also, did you eat any? Gator tail is GOOD stuff! :D
 
I had the hide spilt down each side so I have a top skin with scales and feet and a belly skin. Then I am also having the skull cleaned and shield mounted. I anticipate that there will be some small off cuts from the belly hide that will make a fine sheath inlay ;)

I didn't take a cut from this lizard, the locals got him all. I have however eaten more than my share of the Aussie version ;)
 
Wow Andy, speechless. People parts in crocs, the river going shallow, and that impressive beast... You're going to have some fine looking sheaths for all your infi! Thanks so much for sharing.
 
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