All Knives Need Sheaths

[Phil Dwyer]

Thanks guys. I'm on the lookout for a couple more drill presses for my high school classes. I guess I can add one more to the bargain basement shopping list!

 

[strahd71]

ok i'm looking for a small bench model now!!!!!!

thanks

jake

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I want to add to this post, as Rick has clued me into its existence, but for now I only want to say this about drill presses.

Mine cost 60 bucks. I set mine at 1,500 RPM's because I can then use it to burnish as well. Check out this guy for some great Rosewood Burnishers. I use his model with Gum Tragacanth to finish my edges initially. Make sure your edge is completely dry before adding the Gum Trag as you will find this gives a better final product.

When you get a good look with the burnisher and Gum Trag - finish it with some Duck Cloth (or canvas) and another application of Parrfin, or Bees wax, or more Gum Trag. Buff it with pressure - and you will find it SHINES.

Here is an example of some recent burnished edges:

Also, I do not back the drill press plate with wood as I find it pulls wood shavings into the leather when I use a drill bit. I like Rick's method of using a smooth rod and I will likely use it in the future.

I simply have a 1/6th hole in the plate that has been counter sunk.

The key to my sheaths is making sure the peices you are drilling through do not move and are FLAT on the plate!

Here are some examples of my latest sheaths:

When your sheath is bent over (instead of two pieces like the example showed above) your work can wander on you if you are not VERY careful. For this reason, make sure your wet form is DRY before you drill. This makes the top and bottom even.

TF

 

[Rick Marchand]

Nice TF.... I'm gonna have to make one of those burnishers.... cool.

 

[silver_pilate]

I acutally do all of my stitching prior to wet forming. I basically make a tight pouch sheath, then once it's all cemented and sewn up, I wet the sheath and fit the knife. I then let it dry, repeatedly fitting the knife every so often to retain the fit, and then once it's dry, I deglaze and dye. That just works best for the sheaths I make.

I also use a stitch groover and over stitch wheel to layout and then even up the stitching. I use a hand held diamond shaped awl and tap through the front leather and the welt (cemented together) using a light hammer with the diamond on a 45 degree angle to the stitch line. After I punch through the front leather and welt, I turn the leather over and push the awl through the hole in the opposite direction to open it up some. Once all the holes are punched in the front and welt of the sheath, I contact cement the back to the front/welt, and procede to use my prior holes as a guide and punch through the back of the leather. Since I've already run my stitch groove on the back as well, I use it as a guide to make sure things line up. The nice thing about a sharp diamond awl is, if your hole is slightly off, you can back out and push through at a different angle without leaving a gaping hole.

I use a two needle saddle stitch and run the overstitch wheel over it all once its done.

For burnishing, I use a piece of bone with moisture, and then finish with gum trag.

Here's a sheath or two I've made recently:

--nathan

 

[Rick Marchand]

Nice work Nathan..
I too wetform after assembly.... I do however, dye all my pieces prior to assembly. I do that to esure there is colour in the leather. Sometimes the cement will block the dye or wax from absorbing into the leather and you'll get "spots". I'm not a stickler for shop cleanliness so that covers my ass.

Rick

 

[heatheninthehills]

Thanks Rick. I'm also one of those who hasnt tried making a sheath yet. And this helps out A lot.

Bennie

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Nice TF.... I'm gonna have to make one of those burnishers.... cool.

I thought about machining one as well Rick - but I didn't have any wood - and the price of mine was FAR cheaper than I could make one for.


I weform before I stitch because I want to be able to seal the INSIDE of the sheath from the elements. If I sealed it - the water would not take and I could not wet form it.

TF

 

[Rick Marchand]

Mine are sealed inside and out.... I preheat the sheath to 180F and dip the entire thing in a beeswax mixture..... good to go.


Rick

 

[silver_pilate]

Thanks, Rick. Yeah, in the past I've had issues with cement. Lately, I've been able to keep control of the cement so it doesn't give me trouble. If I do have a spot, I can usually lightly scrape/sand the area and spot die with decent success.

--nathan

 

[skilldust]

I have a 12" x 6" pc of 5/4 hickory that I put on top of the dp vice when I DRILL the holes with a 1/16" bit, that is the only thing that I do different. Jerry

 

[strahd71]

i'm saving this thread! lots of good info!

thanks

jake

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Mine are sealed inside and out.... I preheat the sheath to 180F and dip the entire thing in a beeswax mixture..... good to go.


Rick

List that beeswax mix Rick if you don't mind.

I worry about 'frying' my sheaths in a mixture like that... but I want to try it.

TF

 

[Bruce Culberson]

Thanks for sharing Rick, Tal, & Nathan.

I've had better luck using a finish nail in the drill press than a small bit (the small bit wanders more). If you don't have a stitch spacing wheel you can use a fork to mark the hole spacing. Just put the first prong into the dent made by the last prong on the previous push.....Ha if you can figure that out then you got it!

Here is a sheath made using that method:

 

[ron_m80]

Holy CRAP some of those a beautiful!!! And thats saying alot because it isn't often i feel that way.

 

[Phil Dwyer]

I've had better luck using a finish nail in the drill press than a small bit (the small bit wanders more).

I assume you guys are just using the drill's chuck and lever to keep your awl/bit straight and push it through the leather, but thought I better double check. You aren't powering up and actually drilling, are you?

 

[Rick Marchand]

Keep it below 200F and you're safe..... best at 180F

Preheat the sheath and it'll go A LOT smoother.

My mix (in order of quantity):

Beeswax (organic, prefiltered with honey and pollen still present in small quantities)
linseed oil
pine pitch
teatree oil

The more oil you put in, the softer the leather will be. I use minimal oil for sheaths and increase the linseed for bags and pouches. For armour grade stuff, I use beeswax and paraffin 50/50 mix.


Rick

 

[Rick Marchand]

I assume you guys are just using the drill's chuck and lever to keep your awl/bit straight and push it through the leather, but thought I better double check. You aren't powering up and actually drilling, are you?

Yes.... I run the drill.... it keeps the pin moving smoothly through the leather.





Bruce, that sheath looks forkin' great.... ha ha.... get it?


Rick

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Oh... Fork you Rick...


I have to also add to many makers reading this - this is not rocket science. I am NOT that great with my hands - and frankly am not all that bright - but with a little reading and some trial and error - I think you will find making sheaths as enjoyable as making blades.

I would suggest two books, as well, to get you started:

1) The Art of Hand Stitching, by Al Stohlman.
2) Making Leather Cases, VOl 1, also by Al Stohlman.

I read these, and made this sheath on my first go:

I had a lot of false starts on this sheath, and I have improved some. But I think you will be making sale grade sheaths in little time that will only add value to your blades.

With that said, there are some guys out there (on this board too) that make sheaths that simply take my breath away. They are ungodly talented.

TF

 

[silver_pilate]

The absolute best thing I ever did with my sheath making was to purchase the Wild Rose sheath video from Center Cross Instructional Videos. It filled in all of the blanks for me and was a very enjoyable view. Chuck Burrows is a natural teacher and makes things very easy to follow.

--nathan