- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 10,844
Agreed. The tilting is a temporary solution. A rebevel would be ideal.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
almost super sharp..not quite..i need to get there
- Thread starter steeltowninwv
- Start date
Agreed. The tilting is a temporary solution. A rebevel would be ideal.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,431
That's what I'm thinking as well.^
It looks like the edge angle on the blade is outside the limits of the SM (>40°, assuming you're using that setting). Tilting the blade's edge into that side (where the burr is) should confirm it; tilt the blade a little bit at a time. When you see the burr 'flip' to the other side, you know you've contacted the apex, and the degree to which you've had to tilt the blade will give some idea how far outside the SM's limit the edge is.
Assuming that's the case, re-bevelling to a narrower edge profile will ultimately fix that problem.
David
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
thanks guys..i will get it on it tonight...in the middle of a huge honey do chore...ripping old 1965 tile off the bathroom walls.....its not fun
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,431
Maybe not fun, but such an alternate task could be a good thing. Sometimes it's good to let the mind take a break from one frustrating task in favor of something else (maybe a different flavor of frustration, anyway
), and then come back refreshed and refocused later. I usually benefit from doing so. 
David
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,168
I work in insurance restoration as my day job, I am certified in water mitigation, mold, and Asbestos abatement. Please take the following as a very serious statement regarding your health and safety.
You home was built in a era where most everything from floor coverings to caulk and plaster walls all contain Asbestos. If your are truly dealing with 1965 construction I highly recommend you have a professional make an assessment of the materials you will be disturbing.
Also, I am not trying to scare, some get scared easily when the word asbestos is said. Most states allow the home owner to remove the material without special disposal but protecting yourself and your living environment is the main concern.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
Jason b.....taking a little break...my home was built in 1965...we bought it 4 years ago.....the old man who built it was a very good carpenter..all wood..walls are all chip board....I guess the tile could be asbestos..
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,168
Typically, 9x9 floor tile or old laminate flooring is positive for asbestos. Ceramic type wall tiles are fine.
Regardless, I would always recommend a respirator. Old construction demo is dirty.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
yes very dirty..i just finished up..i think they baked those tiles on..and yes they were wall tiles....sorry to get off topic..i will ost tonight what happens with the knife sharpening
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
just got on the sharpmaker...changed the angle I used on the left side rod..bingo..no burr...switched to the white rods...painted the edge again to make sure I was maintaining that angle..and bingo..no burr.....all I can say..straight on the sharp maker means many things and looks many ways...I mean I changed my angle..and it still looks straight up and down.....
my 2 question now is I am only hitting the edge..just barely up from the edge...will this cause a problem?
also what angle do u guys strop at..ive seen many different angles for stropping...I have a strop chief here on the board gifted me....I have played around with it..but im confused what angle to strop at..some strop at an angle..some strop flat....and in case your wondering..im sharpening a 1095 queen city right now...in fact most of my knives are 1095 or 440
my 2 question now is I am only hitting the edge..just barely up from the edge...will this cause a problem?
also what angle do u guys strop at..ive seen many different angles for stropping...I have a strop chief here on the board gifted me....I have played around with it..but im confused what angle to strop at..some strop at an angle..some strop flat....and in case your wondering..im sharpening a 1095 queen city right now...in fact most of my knives are 1095 or 440
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 10,844
What is happening now is that you are making a microbevel. As you continue to sharpen this way, your microbevel will increase in width and will slowly become the main bevel. However, that's not going to happen soon. It will take a long time. Performance will always lessen as you widen the angle of the bevel.
As has been mentioned, rebeveling your knife will be a more permanent fix. Additionally, even rebeveled, you'll be touching it up with a microbevel(which is the fastest and easiest way to keep your knife sharp) until the micro becomes wide enough again to lessen performance. When that time comes, you'll have to freshen your primary bevel so keep the edge thinned out.
I hope that makes sense.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,168
A burr will always form, detecting it when it gets small can be tricky but you will gain a feel for the edge when it is burr free. You produced a burr on the fine ceramics but you may have not seen it or possibly removed it if using light enough pressure.
That's what we call a microlevel, unless you are saying that the grinding is happening above the cutting edge. In which case you would be using too shallow of an angle and only hitting the shoulder of the bevel. If you are putting a small secondary bevel at the bevel apex then this is froming a higher and more obtuse angle which induces a microbevel. This is not a bad thing unless your back bevel is not thin enough or the blade thickness too thick, but that's when it becomes a discussion of geometry.
Edit: I see singularity35 has it covered.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
thanks guys u all have helped me so much..my knife is now razor sharp..the tip is at about 80 percent...I know that is a sharp maker thing..i will work on some tips on some old knives to try and get it down.....and if anyone can chime in on what angle to strop at....im using the 40 degree side of the sharpmaker
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,168
Strop at the sharpened angle. It's a learning curve but you will get it.
To sharpen the tip you will need to move the handle towards the rod not being used at the time. Just like when using a bench stone you need to lift the handle to get into the belly and tip, same concept.
To sharpen the tip you will need to move the handle towards the rod not being used at the time. Just like when using a bench stone you need to lift the handle to get into the belly and tip, same concept.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
as far as rebeveling....I cant free hand.....what would u all recommend?...I have a smith system..the one that has the rods and handheld guide...diamond stone and fine stone..never really used it..
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 10,844
You can send your knife to a professional sharpener like Jason B, or you can get a guided system like a lansky or a DMT aligner kit. There's still a learning curve but once a knife is rebeveled, you can use the sharpmaker for touchups and you'll probably only need to refresh the bevel around every one or two years depending on your use, of course.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,168
But you can!!!
By using the SM you are performing a semi freehand sharpening action. The crutch is the "set angles" that give your mind and confidence the boost it needs to accomplish the task. Add a stone to your set-up, you might be surprised at what your capable of.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 10,844
This.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2015
- Messages
- 201
gotta say thanks again guys...I just pulled out a case knife I thought I had sharp when I first got the sharpmaker...very same thing with this case knife...burr on left side..bevel pretty far off for the sharpmaker...I put it on the the smiths system and reprofiled...then to the sharpmaker...I was straight up and down like im supposed to be.....razor sharp...im finally learning this thing..thanks to u guys
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2010
- Messages
- 10,844
I'm super glad this thread got back on track and got the OP some help.
Regarding stropping angle, here's one way to do it:
Put the blade on the strop nearly flat and slowly and carefully, push the blade with the edge going forward. This is usually the wrong direction, but we're going to use it to find the angle. As you push the blade forward, slowly lift the spine higher and higher. At some point it will catch on the strop and dig in. At that point, lower your angle just a tiny bit. Now you've found your stropping angle.
Strop as normal with the edge *trailing*. You can do the angle finding routine above again if necessary.
Good luck!
Brian.
Regarding stropping angle, here's one way to do it:
Put the blade on the strop nearly flat and slowly and carefully, push the blade with the edge going forward. This is usually the wrong direction, but we're going to use it to find the angle. As you push the blade forward, slowly lift the spine higher and higher. At some point it will catch on the strop and dig in. At that point, lower your angle just a tiny bit. Now you've found your stropping angle.
Strop as normal with the edge *trailing*. You can do the angle finding routine above again if necessary.
Good luck!
Brian.