Andy - I CHOOSE YOU!

OK. Thats doable. I've never liked that handle configuration on anything but choppers, but if thats what y'all want, I'll do it.
 
Fiddleback said:
OK. Thats doable. I've never liked that handle configuration on anything but choppers, but if thats what y'all want, I'll do it.
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Me niether. I would prefer the swell moved a lil closer to the 1st pin, and I don't like the way the butt end curves in. Try something like this.



 
I don't get it - what do you mean by 'handle configuration'? The side view is exactly traced from the knife you sent me - the top down view is a mix of your larger knives, a Walt Davis, and an Aurora - none of which are choppers - I am not sure I am following.

TF
 
Okay - here is the redraw:

Arete0002.jpg


I made some adjustments... I think this is the final one.

By the way Tony - if you want to design a damned knife - why don't you go ahead? I am tired of you riding my coat tails to awesomeness.

TF
 
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You crack me up. By the way, I can't wait to see the next drawing you post since you are starting to finally pull that large bowling ball you call a head out of your ass...
 
Problem is that you're both really awesome. The rest of the guys on the short bus really look up to both of you.
 
One last time - I made one error in dimension on the blade - but I will fix that. I want the tip to start at about the 2.5 inch mark - not be 2.5 inches wide! ;)

Arete0003.jpg


TF
 
Alright. Thats a tracable and doable design. Here are some comments I've been saving up.

1. I can put two pins in the knife for you. There is no reason to do this structurally, but if you like the look that can work. But!! The bullseye is so close to the end of the handle that I will only locate it there for synthetic handles. Wood, ground to tiny slivers around the pin is bound to fail, and I won't put that pin that close to the edge of wood. I, personally want to place the bullseye at the bottom of the cup toward the butt of the handle.

2. A big long slanted scale leading down to an edge is a bad idea IMO. If the reason to do this is to facilitate having your thumb on the blade during a chest lever cut, then so be it. My usual handle shape has a cup at the blade end of the handle that not only allows a nice firm grip for notching cuts, but also a very comfortable place ON THE HANDLE for your thumb during a chest lever cut. IMO, its never a good idea to design a knife so the fingers can be used on the blade "for fine work", or, for any cutting at all.

3. That swell at the butt is going to dig into your palm when you turn the knife around and cut rope "up". So that will limit comfortable cutting positions. On a chopper, I get it, you're at the end of the handle, and want wrist snap to do a lot of the work. But on a small knife, I almost exclusively do the 'Ray Mears' kinda bushcraft handle shape because it really facilitates the most grips without a hot spot in your palm.

Now. I'll make the knife how you guys want it. I'm just letting you know things that POP out at me after making over 400 knives.
 
Andy,

1) I understand #1. Actually - I have been torn on the bullseye - and would like to leave that one up to you. Move it as you see fit. I would like it toward the rear of the blade - if you can find a good spot for it - and even drop a pin - that is fine by me.

2) The slant of the handle toward the ricossa is to get the thumb to the blade in the chest lever - but also in the reverse cut (where you put your thumb on the blade and cut toward yourself). I have been using, and frankly modifying, other knives of mine to have this feature. I think, with the dimensions on the handle, it will be right.

I have had three knives with the cup you speak of and I find taking it off makes the knife more usable.

3) The swell at the butt (the one Tony and I are calling the Asswell) is like Ray's Bushcrafters I think:

P1040951_1307.jpg


In fact, I drew - studied multiple knives - redrew and redrew what I thought would be right - and I ended up with what essentially looks like a damned Woodlore from the top.

Not my intention - but I think it is right.

I reserve the right to be wrong - and can always send it back, hat in hand, and have you take it off! ;)

Thanks for being cool and making what I ask, even though I may be wrong.

TF
 
Tal, I've made several designs I thought wouldn't work. They usualy suprise me. One thing my marriage has tought me. I'm not right. LOL. Lets make one and see what happens!
 
Haven't been round much lately. It's starting too look sweet guys. Can't wait.
 
1) I think Andy has a point with the down-swell on the pommel. I too wonder if it'll dig into the palm in a reverse grip. I think it may be extraneous.

2) I don't need a bullseye. They do look cool, but I doubt I'll put a lanyard on this knife, so a bullseye is optional for me. I might prefer 2 mosaic pins.

3) TF is driving the bus on this one--short or otherwise--so don't give much weight to my thoughts above. I think it is looking good. Real good.
 
I like how this is turning out. I also feel the bulleye/lanyard hole needs to be more towards the end of the handle. I am not using a lanyard on my Hunter any more because it was uncomfortable under my pinkie. I understand Andy's reasoning to move it further up for durability, especially on wood handles. My desire would be 3 pins, two solid with the 3rd as a lanyard hole more toward the end. Great work guys!! :thumbup:
 
I will go with two pins and the lanyard bullseye - if the asswell is uncomfortable (it isn't on my other knives that have them) I will send it back to Andy to have him take it off.

I am going to package it up and get it out ASAP.

TF
 
Andy, Just make his for now. I may want to change a thing or two after I see the finished product bro.

Thanks
 
Talfuchre said:
I sent the prototype and the drawing off today. Tony, man up and have him make it - you sissy.

TF
Click to expand...


Oh trust me he will make it! I just want to see what yours is going to look like first. This way if there is something I am not crazy about I can ask Andy to change it :)
 
None. Probably start in march, and grind out 5 or so.
 
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