ANOTHER %#!*@¢& Forge Attempt

Thanks Stacy and NC Biker. I'll be checking out the video soon.
 
Just watched the vid, thanks for posting that! I'm a visual learner and that helped me immensely.
 
Wool and refractory arrived today, ordered the pid and ceramic covered thermocouple, will order a burner kit and blower tomorrow.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That is the TC and the insulator beads ... which is right. You still need a TC sgheath. Here what they look like. That seller sells them in three packs, whch is a good way to get them. You will build more forges, and may break a sheath accidentally.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Temperature-Ceramic-Protection-Tube-Sheath-Kiln-Thermocouple-ID-16mm-A94Z/182649709914?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=485207186325&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
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Okay, ordered.
Sadly, your last sentence is true, I already have a larger propane tank waiting in the corner.
 
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Starting to fit the wool to the forge to determine if 2 or 3" thick will be needed

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And the verdict is 2". One inch of inswool and one inch of the higher temp wool, then satanite, ITC100, and then bubble alumina .
But first I'll mark for burner hole through tank, get the 1.5" pipe welded at that location and then reinstall the wool and coat.
 
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I have never used it myself, but I am pretty sure ITC100 is intended as a high-emissivity top coat. It will not do that job if it is under the bubble alumina.
 
Correct. You apply the satanite refractory coating to the wool about 1/4" thick, and cure it. Once cured, you apply a thin coat of ITC-100 and cure again. It is a high reflectivity coating to keep more heat in the chamber.
 
I think that is the order I listed it in, thanks for keeping me straight.
I also need to determine where the access point for the TC will go and it's relationship to the muffle.
 
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The nipple I'm using to house the 1" burner is angled a half inch to the rear (left side). Is that enough angle forward?

Viewing from the front, I'll cut the nipple as marked for length (2.5"). With the nipple being a larger diameter than the burner, my thought is that I can adjust the angle of the flame by utilizing the four set screws I will tap into the nipple. There will be two set screws at the tank in a 12 and 6 o'clock position, and two set screws at the other end of the nipple at 3 and 9 o'clock. One pair will adjust up or down and the other pair, left or right.
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Right now the difficult part is "eyeballing" the two different angles without the wool in place to get an accurate idea as to acceptable angles.
 
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I just went back and looked through NC bikers picture of his Forge and I really need to do some more adjusting to the angles so I will work on that today
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Correct. You apply the satanite refractory coating to the wool about 1/4" thick, and cure it. Once cured, you apply a thin coat of ITC-100 and cure again. It is a high reflectivity coating to keep more heat in the chamber.
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So, is the bubble alumina unnecessary?
 
I have read that it is really good for the forge bottom as the flux doesn't eat through it near as fast as ITC100 or satanite. So if you plan on doing forge welding, it can be good on the bottom. That's what I am planning on doing. That's what I've read about it.
 
Jrmysell said:
I have read that it is really good for the forge bottom as the flux doesn't eat through it near as fast as ITC100 or satanite. So if you plan on doing forge welding, it can be good on the bottom. That's what I am planning on doing. That's what I've read about it.
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Yeah, me too (read, that is).
So far I've only dry welded (with good success), but IF I want to use flux in the future I want the floor protected.
 
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