Another Empty Your Pockets Thread

If you are outside the wire then duct tape, the original stuff not the cheap knockoffs that are thinner and tear easily, gives you more options. But for just plain cuffing a person the zip-ties are MUCH more effective. Just overlap 2 fingers and zip tight between the knuckles and I guarantee they aren't getting loose. Only problem I ever ran into is that with a sword I tend to attack towards the hands/wrists in Koteuchi as it is the best way to disarm someone... BUT if you cut off the hand there really isn't any way to cuff someone. But the good news is at that point I really wasn't too worried about him running away or re-attacking.

Spectre, nope, just a mild mannered Computer-programmer these days. But I spent some time in areas where they really didn't value life much, especially if it wasn't their own. I have discovered that even in "civilized" areas these days there are people who don't following the social niceties so I rarely leave home unprepared to defend myself.
 
Shavru said:
If you are outside the wire then duct tape, the original stuff not the cheap knockoffs that are thinner and tear easily, gives you more options. But for just plain cuffing a person the zip-ties are MUCH more effective. Just overlap 2 fingers and zip tight between the knuckles and I guarantee they aren't getting loose. Only problem I ever ran into is that with a sword I tend to attack towards the hands/wrists in Koteuchi as it is the best way to disarm someone... BUT if you cut off the hand there really isn't any way to cuff someone. But the good news is at that point I really wasn't too worried about him running away or re-attacking.

Spectre, nope, just a mild mannered Computer-programmer these days. But I spent some time in areas where they really didn't value life much, especially if it wasn't their own. I have discovered that even in "civilized" areas these days there are people who don't following the social niceties so I rarely leave home unprepared to defend myself.
Click to expand...

I'm at a loss for words.
 
Ha! SG: Thats what my Bowie looks like but only on the side that touches my skin. Everything else gets wiped down but the tang always touches my skin so its blacker than black. It dont rust so I just leave it be.
 
Shavru said:
BUT if you cut off the hand there really isn't any way to cuff someone. But the good news is at that point I really wasn't too worried about him running away or re-attacking.
Click to expand...

I can't tell from the wording here if this is a hypothetical scenario or something that actually happened. And I'm not sure I want to know!
 
Ha! Blue, I just noticed that change of tense. Shavru, you get both cooler and scarier with every post. I love it!

Ndog, I didn't even think of that cuz I always look at the "left" side, but mine is absolutely darker on the side that touches my skin! That's pretty cool that one could simply look at my knife and tell what side I carry it on
 
I wonder if a person could use some of that dip coating stuff they use on tools. Kind of a rubbery substance.
Just dip the exposed tang in and coat it. Protect it and be maybe a little gentler on your skin to boot.

Mine as Ndog mentioned doesn't rust, it just discolors and really not too bad.

I must not carry the rust gene in my body fluids. I do know some that have it.
 
Its just got that KLVUK look but only smoother. I never tried to remove it. I didnt even notice it till several months of wear. I hadnt checked to see if I have a brown spot on my gizzard tho? Hmmm?
 
You still got a gizzard??? I sold mine to get a Siru a few years back.
 
Bawanna, that Plasti Dip is awesome stuff. I got a can in clear and use it on a lot of things. It stays on nice and solid, but if you really want it off you can peel it off most things. Wood might have too many pores that it might not come off easily if at all though.

Might be worthwhile though. I use it to waterproof things so it should work great keeping the sweat off the exposed tang. Could use the aerosol variety or one of those foam brushes to put on a smooth coat if you just want the metal coated and not the handle.
 
Yup, I'd just coat the exposed metal, it would be sacrilege to cover up good wood with plasti dip.

I didn't know they made clear, I've only seen red and yellow and blue I think, probably lots of others. Never used it myself, thought about it a few times for tools and such.
 
Shavru said:
Bawanna, that Plasti Dip is awesome stuff. I got a can in clear and use it on a lot of things. It stays on nice and solid, but if you really want it off you can peel it off most things. Wood might have too many pores that it might not come off easily if at all though.

Might be worthwhile though. I use it to waterproof things so it should work great keeping the sweat off the exposed tang. Could use the aerosol variety or one of those foam brushes to put on a smooth coat if you just want the metal coated and not the handle.
Click to expand...

I think the opposite will be true. I don't think the dip will adhere well to wood at all.


John
 
Hmm, it shows wood as one of the things it can be used on, as well as concrete, glass, metal, fiberglass ect. But perhaps it would work if it was dipped in it because it would be surrounding the whole thing and "painting" it on it would peel up at the edges. Tying bacl to another thread I was reading it might also depend on how long you soak the handle in mineral oil too though :D
 
How about just clear coat paint over the metal?

Or oxidizing the metal so it becomes black rust which holds oil better and prevents red rust?

I personally am not worried about the exposed metal of the tang which I can see and maintain and even fix if needed.

I'm more paranoid about what's going on between the metal and the scales which I can't see and thus can't fix. :-O
 
Shavru said:
Hmm, it shows wood as one of the things it can be used on, as well as concrete, glass, metal, fiberglass ect. But perhaps it would work if it was dipped in it because it would be surrounding the whole thing and "painting" it on it would peel up at the edges. Tying bacl to another thread I was reading it might also depend on how long you soak the handle in mineral oil too though :D
Click to expand...

I don't think the dip is thin enough to form as solid a bond on a more porous surfaces. Most metal tools have very fine grain structure, and the dip bonds very well. The grain on wood will be much more pronounced, and therefore (I think) not form as strong a bond. If someone has a cheap piece of wood lying around, this should be easily testable.

John
 
hmmm, scrap wood, check ; plastidip, check ; time? well perhaps I will just have to give this a try and report back. Might take me a couple days as I want to be fair and let it sit the entire setup time recommended on the can.
 
I've used the plastidip spray on some trim parts on my car and it's good stuff. It's lasted a couple years without peeling.

Another option to protect the tang would be a thin layer of superglue or epoxy over the areas of concern.
 
philllll said:
I've used the plastidip spray on some trim parts on my car and it's good stuff. It's lasted a couple years without peeling.

Another option to protect the tang would be a thin layer of superglue or epoxy over the areas of concern.
Click to expand...
Is superglue neutral with regards to rust? Or maybe inert is a better word?

I head the smart idea of putting a squishy silicon pad between tang and scales thus sealing all gaps completely from moisture and even allow the natural material to expand and contract without cracking since the silicon can give way a bit. Might even dampen impacts on the wrist.
Turns out silicone contains chemicals which promote rust....
Maybe soft rubber will work.
 
I have done a lot of full tang knives over the years with scales that are mechanically attached (no epoxy, just rivets)-if you get your tang nice and flat, and peen the rivets down hard, it may not be an issue at all-I've never had one come back for that, and the one that I got back for different color scales after a couple years was pretty clean when the scales came off.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
Is superglue neutral with regards to rust? Or maybe inert is a better word?

I head the smart idea of putting a squishy silicon pad between tang and scales thus sealing all gaps completely from moisture and even allow the natural material to expand and contract without cracking since the silicon can give way a bit. Might even dampen impacts on the wrist.
Turns out silicone contains chemicals which promote rust....
Maybe soft rubber will work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, on a couple knives I've made, I had some epoxy spillover when gluing up the handles and didn't fully clean up the tangs afterwards, and those spots are still nice & shiny while the surrounding exposed metal has started to get patina & rust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top