Another new guy...Updated with first knife pics

knife to a gunfight said:
Just my $.02, but looking at your designs I see a couple things right off the bat:
1) Straight Lines
I can't say that you should NEVER have a straight line on a knife, but generally, I'll personally try to avoid them. This goes especially for handles and spines, but even more specifically, the end of the handle scales by the ricasso. 2) Similar to straight lines, you should try to avoid any acute angles (except edges and blade tips of course) where you can. The first handle, for instance has a very sharp point on your handle scale where the index finger would be. Not only will you likely find this uncomfortable as you really start to use the knife in different positions, but there's not much material there, and it's likely to end up breaking off should you ever drop or hit the knife. Natural handle materials can be extra brittle, and you want to give yourself a little insurance here.

Other than those minor details, the designs look fairy function. Welcome to shoptalk, and this addiction called knife making!
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Noted and thanks for the input. I'm not happy with the first one and I'm pretty sure it's all because of the handle. I'm more focused on the overall shape of the knives and probably shouldn't have even drawn the scales on there yet. I see what you're saying about the angles though.
 
I'm just a handle finisher so far, but to me your #1 handle looks out of proportion to the blade. Too long. It might just be a visual thing that has to do with the handle being so straight across where it meets the blade. I like the shape of the blade on your #1 though. The front part of the blade is similar to my favorite skinner.
Randy
 
Well good or bad here's where I ended up. They all seem to feel as good as cardboard can in the hand. Can't get three 7-8" knives on 18" of steel so I'll have to narrow it down by one. All opinions are welcome and appreciated. Hoping I'm on the right track still. Thanks!
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josh81 said:
So I just got done reading a thread started by someone asking for advice. He ended up being completely disrespectful and not willing to learn from anyone. I really hope you experienced guys don't take that to heart and realize there are people genuinely interested in learning and have the utmost respect for all your knowledge and willingness to help out. I was going to wait a little longer to post but that thread sort of pushed me over the edge I guess. I feel like I should post a little info about myself before asking for help so here goes.
I'm 34, married, 3 kids, lots of experience with tools, some experience with welding and metal work, hobby reclaimed furniture maker, and kind of an all around jack of all trades. I live in oregon but really don't know of any makers in my area. My knife experience is pretty minimal. I thought I would just buy some blanks and put handles on them and be happy. I was wrong lol. I kinda feel like an imposter. I've read books and everything I can online. I've ordered some 1095 and I'm in the process of building a file jig. I feel like I should start with files just to really get a feel for the whole process. I was hoping to get a little advice on my designs so far. I thought drawing a knife would be easy but I'm feeling a little overwhelmed trying to get the flow I'm looking for. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any advice you guys are willing to share.
Here's a couple pictures of handles I've done just for fun.
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I've also done a few fixed blades but don't have pictures. Finally here are the drawings in question. Thanks!
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I'm not much at an expert at anything with knives but I happen to like the dark brown handled knife. Refine the spine and washed out grind lines and it looks like something I hope to make myself for an inexpensive working knife that someone would still be proud to carry. The first knife looks too fat from the top but looks great from the side. If it's made for someone specific or is made for comfort over aesthetics, then no worries. Spyderco made a big business via comfort and functionality over aesthetics. Aside from the width, the fit looks really good. I hope I can get the same results.

I reworked a knife for a dude with gorilla hands. The handle looked a little funky for a photo shoot but the dude got it in his hands and loved it regardless of how it looked. Said he couldn't find a knife that fit his paws right until this one. He was happy so I was too. That's more important than getting a photogenic shot.
 
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bodog said:
I'm not much at an expert at anything with knives but I happen to like the dark brown handled knife. Refine the spine and washed out grind lines and it looks like something I hope to make myself for an inexpensive working knife that someone would still be proud to carry. The first knife looks too fat from the top but looks great from the side. If it's made for someone specific or is made for comfort over aesthetics, then no worries. Spyderco made a big business via comfort and functionality over aesthetics. Aside from the width, the fit looks really good. I hope I can get the same results.

I reworked a knife for a dude with gorilla hands. The handle looked a little funky for a photo shoot but the dude got it in his hands and loved it regardless of how it looked. Said he couldn't find a knife that fit his paws right until this one. He was happy so I was too. That's more important than getting a photogenic shot.
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Just to be perfectly clear I did not make these blades. Thanks for your input I just want to make sure everybody knows I only did the handle work.
 
Well I now officially have a semi-knife shaped piece of steel. Lesson for the day is that I need a new hacksaw. What do you guys use to cute out your knife profiles? Anything you guys see that I should change before I get too far? Thanks again!
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Heck Josh, good on you IMO--since your steel is annealed not heat treated yet, you need to drill any holes you want now. Pins for the handle scales, place for a thong tied on and possibly a tube for tang hole, and one other thing I do at this stage is take a tool--dremel, file, punch--and rough up the tang to help the epoxy hang on when the scales are glued up. Also it's worth noting that you should leave the edge of you knife at around 15-20 thou thick through heat treating--it helps prevent your blade from warping during HT--I also do the majority of my sanding when I get a blade to that point--to me it's just another thing that is easier to do pre-HT.
For cutting out my profiles I ended up settling on a Milwaukee port-a-band saw and a SWAG offroad table for it. It works as good as I think you can do til you want to drop 1500-2000 or more on a metal cutting bandsaw.

Keep us posted how you end up--looking good so far brother!
 
Fish30114 said:
Heck Josh, good on you IMO--since your steel is annealed not heat treated yet, you need to drill any holes you want now. Pins for the handle scales, place for a thong tied on and possibly a tube for tang hole, and one other thing I do at this stage is take a tool--dremel, file, punch--and rough up the tang to help the epoxy hang on when the scales are glued up. Also it's worth noting that you should leave the edge of you knife at around 15-20 thou thick through heat treating--it helps prevent your blade from warping during HT--I also do the majority of my sanding when I get a blade to that point--to me it's just another thing that is easier to do pre-HT.
For cutting out my profiles I ended up settling on a Milwaukee port-a-band saw and a SWAG offroad table for it. It works as good as I think you can do til you want to drop 1500-2000 or more on a metal cutting bandsaw.

Keep us posted how you end up--looking good so far brother!
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Thanks! To be honest I'm pretty happy with it so far. I was wondering how far to take the edge before heat treat. Thanks for that info. Now I need to hurry up and get my file jig done so I can file some bevels. Thanks for your input and encouragement!
 
OK did some clean up on the rounded edges with a file and drilled my pin holes in the tang. Can you guys recommend a file for doing the bevels? I was gonna go 12" but I'm not sure if I want a mill file or bastard cut? Also wondering if I could make a file guide for the plunge that wasn't heat treated? I know eventually it would wear down but I would think it would make it for awhile. Sorry for all the questions. Getting to the point where I'm realizing I don't know much lol.
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Well this is where I'm at after a couple hours of filing. Not sure what to think. It's not a complete disaster but it just doesn't look right to me. Maybe I'm just too critical I don't know. Any opinions or advice would be welcomed.
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Josh, I agree with manny, for that work I would go with a flat bastard first cut file. Making a jig out of a non-hardened metal is cool--if your talking specifically about the eye hook, I think they would last forever and a day! Look on YouTube for Aaron Gough videos, and he shows how to make a first rate filing jig.

Keep going brother, your off to a good start
 
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If you paint your blade with dykem or a sharpie and scribe some lines before filing it can help keep your grinding even.
 
Fish30114 said:
Josh, I agree with many, for that work I would go with a flat bastard first cut file. Making a jig out of a non-hardened metal is cool--if your talking specifically about the eye hook, I think they would last forever and a day! Look on YouTube for Aaron Gough videos, and he shows how to make a first rate filing jig.

Keep going brother, your off to a good start
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Thanks! Ya I should have been more clear. I built and am using the Gough jig. I was meaning more a guide for the plunge. I used a 1/4" bolt and it wore past the threads but I can compensate and make it work.
 
Taximanny said:
I would think to bring your grind up more, maybe about to half the way up to the spine.
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This is 10 degrees and I thought it would be a good number. I should probably worry more about what feels right and not a number. Thanks for the input!
 
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