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I can't believe I missed that and didn't think of it either. That's kinda embarrassing. Thanks for catching that.Watch the Aron Gough video again.
You need to sand off the sides of the file on both sides.
That way it does not cut into your plunge bolt.
Equally radius on both sides of the file.
I took the edge to .020. Might go a little further though. I tried to sand the flats with paper on a piece of flat stock but maybe I'll try something different. Back to the drawing board. At least I'm headed in the right direction.220 is all I go before HT.
How thin is your edge?
You might want to put your makers mark in too, before HT
Also if you want your flats more distinguished than your bevel, get it flat by sanding it on a granite tile.
Or use a surface grinder.
The bevel looks a little washed out, in my opponion.
You must have ESP! I've been working on it for two days and keep washing out my lines. Decided to Google hand sanding knife blades and his video came up. I was half way through it when you typed this lol. Wish I would have watched it sooner. I'm basically doing it all wrong. The good news is I'm learning. I'll post some pictures when I think I have it cleaned up enough. I don't have a maker's mark so I'll have to skip that step. Still looking for someone to send them to for heat treat if you guys have any ideas. Thanks for all the help!Looking good brother, I would take a run at the highest grit paper you have used with a sanding block/bar/board--it's really worth looking up the youtube videos by Nick Wheeler on hand sanding and follow what you can from him. Sanding in the same (and consistent) direction with some lube like WD-40, 3n1 oil or Windex, and using a backer for your sandpaper really makes a difference. I echo Manny on going ahead with putting on your maker mark pre-HT. I think you're at the right thickness for HT, around 20 Thou is GTG.
Keep us posted!!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely try to improve those on the next one.That's better finished than most new makers.[emoji106]
A few suggestions to improve the next ones:
I find a full flat grind makes a better performing knife. I go to 0.030 at the edge before heat treat, as I like to leave a little extra for getting through the decarb to good steel. 0.010 to 0.015 is where I have my edges before sharpening. Clamp your scales together, and round the front of the scales before attaching them gives a more flowing look. The flat front of the scales distracts from the handle shape. Looking forward to seeing the next ones. :thumbup:
Thanks for the encouragement. I have one more that I got back from heat treat. Going to finish it up soon. I'll see if I can improve the shape of the front of the scales and post pictures when I'm done.Heck Josh, I think that's an awesome first effort--you did a good job finishing those blades obviously. I think Willie has stated the only arena's I would comment on. Keep on going brother, this shows you are capable of some really great blades!
Thanks. Ya I see what you mean. It's hard to see but I ground a swedge (right term?) Into the top of the blade and it got feathered too far back so I had to keep the top corner of the scale away from that. Covering up one mistake with another lol.Better 👍. I think offsetting the center of the curve higher on the scale looks better, like an upside down teardrop. Try drawing out different curves, and see what suits the knife.