Another TL-29 thread

Nice clean Schrade, SAK!
 
Picked this up at a pawn shop for 10 bucks. A Camilus. The blades are scratched up a bit, there is some rust inside, and there is a bit of blade play in the main blade. The screwdriver is very tight though. Which I really like.
It is in such good shape I couldn't resist leaving it in the shop. The first few times I opened the screwdriver though, the liner lock would not engage. But I figured out the screwdriver wasn't seating properly, so I worked it a few more times and the lock engages. It's still a bit sticky though.
Once I get it cleaned up it will be a nice user. I just wish I knew more about repairing blade play. The blade is a bit more loose than I'm comfortable with. Any thoughts?





 
Horizontal play is easily addressed. Take some soot/char from a match, get it on your fingertips and try to wipe the bolsters with it so you can outline the pin.
Get a pin punch and tap the punch with a hammer, very light taps since once you go too far it is Much harder to go back...
Once you think one more tap and you are good, Stop! I would rather err on the side of caution than render it too tight and thus being more problematic.

If it is vertical play, some people have had some luck finding a patch for it.
They tried putting a Very small dab of crazy glue on the face of the spring. This would then dry and allow you to sand it down to eliminate just about, if not all of the play.

The issue I have with this is that if any significant force is applied to a cut, the glue can Crack and become lodged in the tang/spring/pivot area and wreak who knows what kinds of havoc.

The only other "fix" could possibly be to put a spot of solder on the spring face, but this would require disassembly of the knife to not have any affect on the HT, and even then, it is possible that the solder can shear at the joint or just deform under pressure.
------------
I know these are not the answers you were looking for, but they are the only unfortunate options I see.

Glennbad has done quite a bit of work on these and may chime in, as well as some of the other builders/modders.

Good luck, nice find, and keep us posted.
Fwiw, iirc, the steel is close to 440a, so you have a decent user that will respond to a strop, car window, or coffee mug nicely.
 
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NJBillK said:
Horizontal play is easily addressed. Take some soot/char from a match, get it on your fingertips and try to wipe the bolsters with it so you can outline the pin.
Get a pin punch and tap the punch with a hammer, very light taps since once you go too far it is Much harder to go back...
Once you think one more tap and you are good, Stop! I would rather err on the side of caution than render it too tight and thus being more problematic.

If it is vertical play, some people have had some luck finding a patch for it.
They tried putting a Very small dab of crazy glue on the face of the spring. This would then dry and allow you to sand it down to eliminate just about, if not all of the play.

The issue I have with this is that if any significant force is applied to a cut, the glue can Crack and become lodged in the tang/spring/pivot area and wreak who knows what kinds of havoc.

The only other "fix" could possibly be to put a spot of solder on the spring face, but this would require disassembly of the knife to not have any affect on the HT, and even then, it is possible that the solder can shear at the joint or just deform under pressure.
------------
I know these are not the answers you were looking for, but they are the only unfortunate options I see.

Glennbad has done quite a bit of work on these and may chime in, as well as some of the other builders/modders.

Good luck, nice find, and keep us posted.
Fwiw, iirc, the steel is close to 440a, so you have a decent user that will respond to a strop, car window, or coffee mug nicely.
Click to expand...

Wow! Thanks for that! Now, I have some ideas to go with. Sorry, I could have save you a lot of typing by just typing the word "horizontal." The pics don't show it, but I can see the pivot pin on both sides. Now which one to adjust? One or both?
 
It is only one pin. It is the pivot pin that you are going to be tapping on. If you have a securely mounted vise, use the flat spot on the rear, if equipped. If yours doesn't have a plate on the rear, close the jaws completely and use the tops of the jaws as an improvised anvil /work surface.

Tap one side two or three times, then flip and do the other side, it should tighten, but if it doesn't, see below.
》If you notice that you are just knocking the pin back and forth, tap it one way to create a small amount if space and recess one side of the pin into the bolster. Now put a drill bit (the size of the pin) in the vise jaws held firmly and place that in the recessed pin area and now tap the other side of the pin with your pin punch.
By doing this you place the hammer falls on the pin directly and not allowing it to wander in the pivot.

The one thing you might notice is that during the peening, you might cause the pin to seem to "sink" a little, so you can sand the bolsters a touch to even them up with the pin.
---------
No worries about the typing, now if someone needs it they might be able to find it via search.

Welcome to the fold. You thought modding Beckers took up some time, check out these threads. Come to think of it, the first one might help you here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1316083-Making-custom-scales-for-a-barlow

And take a look at post #6 in the following thread, that is a modded TL-29.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1184347-Glennbad-is-a-baaaad-man
 
NJBillK said:
It is only one pin. It is the pivot pin that you are going to be tapping on. If you have a securely mounted vise, use the flat spot on the rear, if equipped. If yours doesn't have a plate on the rear, close the jaws completely and use the tops of the jaws as an improvised anvil /work surface.

Tap one side two or three times, then flip and do the other side, it should tighten, but if it doesn't, see below.
》If you notice that you are just knocking the pin back and forth, tap it one way to create a small amount if space and recess one side of the pin into the bolster. Now put a drill bit (the size of the pin) in the vise jaws held firmly and place that in the recessed pin area and now tap the other side of the pin with your pin punch.
By doing this you place the hammer falls on the pin directly and not allowing it to wander in the pivot.

The one thing you might notice is that during the peening, you might cause the pin to seem to "sink" a little, so you can sand the bolsters a touch to even them up with the pin.
---------
No worries about the typing, now if someone needs it they might be able to find it via search.

Welcome to the fold. You thought modding Beckers took up some time, check out these threads. Come to think of it, the first one might help you here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1316083-Making-custom-scales-for-a-barlow

And take a look at post #6 in the following thread, that is a modded TL-29.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1184347-Glennbad-is-a-baaaad-man
Click to expand...

Yeah. Sorry, I meant which side to tap on. I knew it was one pin. Thanks for the links!!!!
(not trying to sound like a jerk there) :)
 
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NJBillK said:
If it is vertical play, some people have had some luck finding a patch for it.
They tried putting a Very small dab of crazy glue on the face of the spring. This would then dry and allow you to sand it down to eliminate just about, if not all of the play.

The issue I have with this is that if any significant force is applied to a cut, the glue can Crack and become lodged in the tang/spring/pivot area and wreak who knows what kinds of havoc.

The only other "fix" could possibly be to put a spot of solder on the spring face, but this would require disassembly of the knife to not have any affect on the HT, and even then, it is possible that the solder can shear at the joint or just deform under pressure.
Click to expand...

I wonder if JB Weld could be used to fix vertical play?
 
That might be possible, a buddy fixed a hole the size of a half dollar coin on a crankcase on his 2001 Yamaha warrior quad with the stuff.
 
You can fix vertical play by tapping the sides of the backspring to raise the bearing surface of the lockface ala this post here.

To keep it topical here are some of my favorite knives in the whole world:
electrician2.jpgelectrician3.jpgelectrician1.jpg
 
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Camillus on the left and a Holub on the right. The Holub belonged to my Father-in-law Frank and was in his pocket every day for years. He was a great man and I am honored to have his knife.

N0gLTDt.jpg
 
r8shell said:
An electrician's Barlow, now that is cool! Does the screwdriver lock?
Click to expand...

Yes it does. Based on it's condition when I got it, it looked like it was likely given to someone and put up. It's never been used. It had a little oxidation after 50 years that I polished out. The liner lock looked brass, but the brass color came off during cleanup. It's just a typical old Colonial with a twist.
 
Playing around with my Camilus, I am really starting to enjoy this design. Since my main has some play, I haven't used it at all, but the screwdriver has really come in handy. I also really like this design and build because it's the perfect fit in my hand, and everything about this knife just says, "solid." Once I'm able to fix the play, I'm gonna use the heck out of this thing.

EDIT: Play fixed. Tight as a drum now.
 
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