anvil idea?

thanks will.....i think i'm just gonna try and build a base....maybe out of wood and attach a steel plate to it and try that for now.....ryan
 
My boss built an anvil out of a wear plate that goes on the side of a dozer blade. It is nice and hard and has a very good rebound, but it is very loud. He welded the plate onto an I-beam on its end and then welded leaf springs around the outside. He then tapped the holes in the leaf spring and threaded bolts through the holes and against the I-beam. When the bolts are tightened it loads the leaf spring against the dozer plate. I have forged on it a bit and it is very nice to use. I should take a pic, it is hard to explain.

-Mike
 
If your gonna do that why not just get a sono tube and fill it with concrete and put oh say a 6"x6" about 2" thick on top. You should weld a rod or two to it to put in the concrete. simple easy anvil. I've seen a couple of these in use.
 
My boss built an anvil out of a wear plate that goes on the side of a dozer blade. It is nice and hard and has a very good rebound, but it is very loud. He welded the plate onto an I-beam on its end and then welded leaf springs around the outside. He then tapped the holes in the leaf spring and threaded bolts through the holes and against the I-beam. When the bolts are tightened it loads the leaf spring against the dozer plate. I have forged on it a bit and it is very nice to use. I should take a pic, it is hard to explain.

-Mike






mike...i'd love to see a pic if u get a chance.....ryan
 
If your gonna do that why not just get a sono tube and fill it with concrete and put oh say a 6"x6" about 2" thick on top. You should weld a rod or two to it to put in the concrete. simple easy anvil. I've seen a couple of these in use.





rusty....what's a sono tube?....ryan
 
It is a concrete form you get from the hardware, It is made out of thick cardboard, most of the time used for pouring concrete for coloumns or pillars. they also use them for foundations for small out buildings. sorry I think I spelled it wrong sonotube, one word.
 
thanks rusty.....so if i get a sonotube from the store.....i can just put some pieces of rebar thru the middle fo rsupport .....how would u attach a piece of steel to the top...to concrete?......i'm not very handy as u can tell:eek:.....i'd appreciate any advice on attaching the steel to the pillar.....ryan
 
thanks will.....i think i'm just gonna try and build a base....maybe out of wood and attach a steel plate to it and try that for now.....ryan

Ryan,

I'm skeptical (also been FOS a number of times).

Do you have hardwood in your area? How about a 12" to 14" round, dig a hole for it with sand/gravel underneath (6" to 12") and held in place with sand or gravel. Attach a thick plate on top (2") or look around the blacksmith sites for a wedge anvil... that's not what they are called... pounds into a stump. I've seen them on Primal Fires. Ask Tai. Might have to band the top of the log-end to hold the wedge.

Mike
 
mike....that sounds great but i have to keep it in my garage so i probably shouldn't dig thru my floor:D.....i live in a city.....so i am somewhat limited in the fact i can't have a big open space to work out in a field or a big barn.....i am jealous of those that can......i think my best bet is to make some sort of post type anvil....i found a pic of one tim lively made from a base of concrete.....i just have to find a good hunk of steel now i think.....ryan
 
thanks rusty.....so if i get a sonotube from the store.....i can just put some pieces of rebar thru the middle fo rsupport .....how would u attach a piece of steel to the top...to concrete?......i'm not very handy as u can tell:eek:.....i'd appreciate any advice on attaching the steel to the pillar.....ryan

I was going to build an anvil that way and Wayne Goddard was more than skeptical... said it wouldn't work... that a person would break the concrete whacking it with a hammer and/or from the repeated blows on the steel.

Concrete can be used for weight and stability, but the steel top needs to direct the blows to a base of a different material (wood, particle board, steel, ???) through a post or rods or ???

The post I put up on the first page, where I was yapping about building an anvil... the rebar attaches the conrete to the base and post flange. I'll do something to keep the concrete from attaching to the cylinder rod... tarpaper, thin sheet foam, ???

Mike
 
Ryan, If it were me I'd weld some rebar (bend it up a bit) to the base of the top and stick it in the concrete while it was wet and let it set up a good while before you beat on it good. you can put the whole thing in a 5 gal bucket and pour sand or concrete around it to keep it mobile.
 
Some of the neo-tribal guys will take a big sledge hammer and put it in a 5 gallon bucket of cement to use as an anvil. Just a thought. Tim Lively just uses a chunk of steel in the ground for an anvil but he forges sitting or kneeling on the ground.
 
I built a post anvil from a piece of 4x10x28" piece of mild steel. Though it is not as hard as most anvils, it has a great rebound, and the surface is holding up quite well. I did some work hardening on it with a sledge hammer.
 
chuck....what do u have it attached to?....and correct me if i'm wrong but work hardening means just getting harder over time from having force applied to it...in this case by you banging it with a hammer?....ryan
 
I built a base from 2x4's and then cribbed them up the sides to hold it upright. Yes work hardening is beating on it with the sledge. I would put a piece into the forge to warm up and bang on the face for a while. I just helped the sledge up and guided it as the rebound was sufficient to do most of the work.
 
Has anyone used or seen an NC Tool Anvil?

Their webiste claims them to be steel and hardened, but it doesn't give an actual hardness value.
I use a NC Tool Calvery Anvil. I love it. Have had it about a year. Nice wide face. Good rebound. At 112lbs its a great anvil.
 
Ryan, I used a piece of RR track till I got my anvil. $for$ Thats the best cheap anvil you can get. Just take a grinder and flatten the top. You can usually pick a piece up at the maint shop at your local RR yard. If not free very cheap.
As a matter of fact I still use it for forge welding to keep flux off my good anvil.
 
file.php

I have that one:
file.php

One idea is wood spliting spyke, other is sledge hummer with sharpened part stucked in the wooden base and steel tube trough the hole to keep it steady and not to enter into the wood.
 
Ryan, Here's a picture of a post anvil Wayne Goddard made for an article he was working on. I can't remember the title of the article but it was on anvil substitutes. I now own the anvil he made. The anvil face is a fork from a fork lift. The fork was cut in half at the thickest section and welded back to itself. The rest of the steel was just added for mass. When Wayne gave it to me it weighed 285 pounds. It closer to 300 pound now cause I added a good size chunk of steel to it.
PDRM0075.JPG
 
Last edited:
Back
Top