Any negative reviews on wicked edge??

I'm also really interested in getting one of these. I was thinking the pro pack plus another set of strops for my HA 1 micron boron carbide and .5 micron chromium oxide.

I watched modifiez (or something like that) video on youtube and he used the diamond stones follow by ceramic stones and then used sandpaper. Can anyone recommend what stones are best for 'flawless' mirrored edges? I'm thinking the ceramics aren't really needed and I could just use sandpaper 1k-2.5k grits if not higher after the diamond.

I also realize light pressure is essential for a proper mirror edge. Is there a preferred technique IE up and down strokes from heel to tip or one long stroke from heel to tip?
 
Last edited:
Works fine on recurves, I haven't done a ZT350, but I've done a Kershaw Chive, which is smaller and has a more severe recurve. It didn't have any trouble with it. The corners of the plates are fairly well rounded-over, so they tend to work just fine on the inside of a curve as well as the outside.

The ceramics Clay offers for the system are just fine (if you can get them, he's had some supply troubles), or you can ALWAYS just tape paper over the 1K plates and take it as fine as you want. I've seen some REALLY nice mirror edges done with the stock system that ends at the 600 stones, just by taping 3m Wet-or-dry over the plates and continuing the grit advance that way. Ken Schwartz also offers a MUCH larger range of diamond grits in his films that can be mounted to WEPS paddles if you want to stick with diamonds all the way up.

MY typical method (and everyone seems to have one a bit different) is to "scrub" in small ovals, with small movements back and forth along the edge, while running the paddles through their entire range of vertical motion. That leaves a rather odd, swirled scratch pattern. Once I can see a burr and that the scratch pattern is uniform across the entire surface, I switch to single strokes from heel to tip, trying to use the entire paddle in the sweep. That evens out all the scratches and leaves a nice, consistent finish. Then I go up to the next grit, and do it all over again.

Clay has quite a few videos on technique that are very much worth watching.
 
If this works well on recurves will it also work well on Hawkbill/Karambit style blades? I have a few of them in folders and am still trying to decide which sharpening system to get. So far this seems like the best guided system, just want to make sure it can do hawkbills too
 
Komitadjie said:
Works fine on recurves, I haven't done a ZT350, but I've done a Kershaw Chive, which is smaller and has a more severe recurve. It didn't have any trouble with it. The corners of the plates are fairly well rounded-over, so they tend to work just fine on the inside of a curve as well as the outside.

The ceramics Clay offers for the system are just fine (if you can get them, he's had some supply troubles), or you can ALWAYS just tape paper over the 1K plates and take it as fine as you want. I've seen some REALLY nice mirror edges done with the stock system that ends at the 600 stones, just by taping 3m Wet-or-dry over the plates and continuing the grit advance that way. Ken Schwartz also offers a MUCH larger range of diamond grits in his films that can be mounted to WEPS paddles if you want to stick with diamonds all the way up.

MY typical method (and everyone seems to have one a bit different) is to "scrub" in small ovals, with small movements back and forth along the edge, while running the paddles through their entire range of vertical motion. That leaves a rather odd, swirled scratch pattern. Once I can see a burr and that the scratch pattern is uniform across the entire surface, I switch to single strokes from heel to tip, trying to use the entire paddle in the sweep. That evens out all the scratches and leaves a nice, consistent finish. Then I go up to the next grit, and do it all over again.

Clay has quite a few videos on technique that are very much worth watching.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for the info. I think I'll pick one up once they ship with the new arms. That said, it's still quite an expenditure so I may have to think it over.

I'm thinking I could get the regular wicked edge and 2 sets of strops and then just buy sandpaper from grits 600-maybe 2.5k? Anyone have grit suggestions for the papers?

Or should I just spend the extra money for the pro pack? I'm not sure if the 800 and 1k stones are really needed when you have paper to tape on?

Also, after using the 5 micron and 3.5 micron pastes, I have 1 micron diamond paste and 1 micron boron carbide. I assume the boron carbide is superior, but not sure yet.

I'm just looking for ridiculous, perfect, scratch less mirrors. Is that too much to ask??:P
 
I love my system. My only complaints/negative points would be the fact that the angle adjustment screws will loosen up and lose your angle if you use too much pressure and the fact that it takes a while to get the technique down.

On the positive side, the stones need to be broken in so you can do this while you get the technique down. I also like the fact that you can go as crazy as you want. You could spend $300 for a basic field kit and bet respectable working edges or you could go all out and spend $1000+ for a pro kit and water stones.

I personally own a pro kit with a granite base, 100-1000 stones, 1200/1600 ceramics, and 5/3.5 micron strops. I can get very sharp edges with a VERY good mirror polish.
 
Heiheit said:
Thanks a lot for the info. I think I'll pick one up once they ship with the new arms. That said, it's still quite an expenditure so I may have to think it over.

I'm thinking I could get the regular wicked edge and 2 sets of strops and then just buy sandpaper from grits 600-maybe 2.5k? Anyone have grit suggestions for the papers?

Or should I just spend the extra money for the pro pack? I'm not sure if the 800 and 1k stones are really needed when you have paper to tape on?

Also, after using the 5 micron and 3.5 micron pastes, I have 1 micron diamond paste and 1 micron boron carbide. I assume the boron carbide is superior, but not sure yet.

I'm just looking for ridiculous, perfect, scratch less mirrors. Is that too much to ask??:P
Click to expand...

With the WE? I certainly don't think that's too much to ask! Having the angle mechanically held makes that kind of thing much more straightforward, especially once you get the feel for it down. The only real limit on it is your patience and your technique. Pressure, stroke direction, angle and progression... there are a LOT of things to consider once you're going for that level of perfection. Practice, practice, practice!

The pro-pack is a good deal, you save a fair bit by the time you consider all the add-ons you get, but if you would rather not make that investment all at once, then by all means grab the stock kit! The base is nothing special, and the kit includes a little template out of cardstock with the hole positions for you to make your own base out of whatever you want, all you need is a drill. An old cutting board is a frequently-seen choice for a home-brew base.

The higher-grit diamond and ceramic plates can be bypassed with taped-on sandpaper if you wish, it will work just fine but might take a couple paper swaps before you are all done. Sandpaper is cheap, though, so that's not really anything but some time. The grit range is certainly better with paper! You will still want to pick up a strop pack, though. I'd be tempted to get the WEPS 5u and 3.5u, then a blank pair of either leather or balsa (both work fine) that you can load with your 1u compound. I go through 3.5u on the WEPS strops, then take it to my Kalamazoo for a quick power-stropping on Keith's 1u Boron Carbide, then one on his .5u Chromium Oxide. Beyond that, Ken makes a whole world of compounds below .5u... Be careful, this rabbit hole goes pretty deep. :D
 
Komitadjie said:
With the WE? I certainly don't think that's too much to ask! Having the angle mechanically held makes that kind of thing much more straightforward, especially once you get the feel for it down. The only real limit on it is your patience and your technique. Pressure, stroke direction, angle and progression... there are a LOT of things to consider once you're going for that level of perfection. Practice, practice, practice!

The pro-pack is a good deal, you save a fair bit by the time you consider all the add-ons you get, but if you would rather not make that investment all at once, then by all means grab the stock kit! The base is nothing special, and the kit includes a little template out of cardstock with the hole positions for you to make your own base out of whatever you want, all you need is a drill. An old cutting board is a frequently-seen choice for a home-brew base.

The higher-grit diamond and ceramic plates can be bypassed with taped-on sandpaper if you wish, it will work just fine but might take a couple paper swaps before you are all done. Sandpaper is cheap, though, so that's not really anything but some time. The grit range is certainly better with paper! You will still want to pick up a strop pack, though. I'd be tempted to get the WEPS 5u and 3.5u, then a blank pair of either leather or balsa (both work fine) that you can load with your 1u compound. I go through 3.5u on the WEPS strops, then take it to my Kalamazoo for a quick power-stropping on Keith's 1u Boron Carbide, then one on his .5u Chromium Oxide. Beyond that, Ken makes a whole world of compounds below .5u... Be careful, this rabbit hole goes pretty deep. :D
Click to expand...

Shit sounds like it
 
And that doesn't even start to cover the multitude of waterstone options, aftermarket diamond plates, the merits of mono vs poly diamond, CBN versus diamond, stropping substrates and the relative grit of the substrate itself... Plus the increased magnification and methods of testing edges with that degree of refinement.

THEN you get into the guys who prefer a rougher finished edge for the 'bite' it adds to the slicing cut!

Just gets more and more interesting the farther down you go! :D
 
Yeah, I've been down that rabbit hole with the edge pro lol. Funny you mention the kalamazoo since that's how I sharpen now. It's not that I don't get sharp edges, I'd just like a more precise way to get a great edge on my more expensive knives. Thanks a lot for your help brother. :thumbup:
 
Hey, always happy to talk sharpening!

Incidentally, I actually had my Kalamazoo before the WEPS as well. I acquired an EdgePro, then put in an order for a WEPS, and while I was waiting for them to have the WEPS back in stock, I ordered up a Kalamazoo and got going that way. For the most part, I do all my working blades on the Kalamazoo. It's just so fast and SO easy to get a great edge. But every so often there's a knife that just DESERVES more than a belt job, and that's when the WEPS and EP come out to play. Especially for the "show off" knives, when you want a pocket knife to pass the HHT and things like that. :D

I think it's mostly a case of having the right tool for the job. You wouldn't try to use one KNIFE for every job, so why should you try to put one sharpener to EVERY sharpening job?
 
Komitadjie said:
Hey, always happy to talk sharpening!

Incidentally, I actually had my Kalamazoo before the WEPS as well. I acquired an EdgePro, then put in an order for a WEPS, and while I was waiting for them to have the WEPS back in stock, I ordered up a Kalamazoo and got going that way. For the most part, I do all my working blades on the Kalamazoo. It's just so fast and SO easy to get a great edge. But every so often there's a knife that just DESERVES more than a belt job, and that's when the WEPS and EP come out to play. Especially for the "show off" knives, when you want a pocket knife to pass the HHT and things like that. :D

I think it's mostly a case of having the right tool for the job. You wouldn't try to use one KNIFE for every job, so why should you try to put one sharpener to EVERY sharpening job?
Click to expand...


My feelings precisely.. I have belts up to 12k for the 1sm.. funny thing is it's very easy to round tips with those belts and I usually just stick with 400 grit SiC and a leather belt for most edges. They aren't hair whittling sharp, but they are very very sharp and I could rebevel and finish an edge to that sharpness in less than five minutes.

I might be able to get a wicked edge for $200 (with just the 4 stones) and I think I'll take it. Not sure if I'd want to get the 800 and 1k stones though.. Think I'll just get two sets of strops and a truck load of fine wet or dry lol!
 
Here is what the kit I'm looking at includes
thoughts?
The Wicked Edge System offered here is the basic Gen 2 Wicked Edge PRO+ system with the 100/200/400/600/800/1000 grit diamond stones. This PRO system also includes 14/10/5/3.5 Micron diamond leather strops.

Paperstone Base is included in this kit.
 
You might consider the new Micro Fine ceramics. I was going to skip these at first, (seemed kinda pricey), but glad I got them. They're great to finish a knife with, or to set the edge up for the leather strops. Probably my favorite stones in the lineup.

cbw
 
cbwx34 said:
You might consider the new Micro Fine ceramics. I was going to skip these at first, (seemed kinda pricey), but glad I got them. They're great to finish a knife with, or to set the edge up for the leather strops. Probably my favorite stones in the lineup.

cbw
Click to expand...

I'm going to get those later on for sure
 
Heiheit said:
My feelings precisely.. I have belts up to 12k for the 1sm.. funny thing is it's very easy to round tips with those belts and I usually just stick with 400 grit SiC and a leather belt for most edges. They aren't hair whittling sharp, but they are very very sharp and I could rebevel and finish an edge to that sharpness in less than five minutes.

I might be able to get a wicked edge for $200 (with just the 4 stones) and I think I'll take it. Not sure if I'd want to get the 800 and 1k stones though.. Think I'll just get two sets of strops and a truck load of fine wet or dry lol!
Click to expand...

I'd say go for it! You can always order up additional plates later, or order the bare paddles and affix whatever you want to them. Another tool worth getting is an Angle Cube, if you don't have one already. It lets you set EXACTLY the angle you want on each side of the blade, down to a small fraction of a degree. Handy especially when you want to have your angles set for upkeep with a Sharpmaker or other such fixed-angle device.
 
Well I decided to get the wicked edge.. I ended up pay $215 shipped for the basic system from a member. I'll also be buying 800/1k stones and a 5/3.5 micron paste/strop set and probably a roo leather or nano cloth strop for the 1 micron boron carbide and .5 micron chromium oxide. I'll also be ordering the wet/dry in 1000/1500/2000/2500 grits to use after the 1k stone.

I saw I can just use an app on my iPhone in place of an angle cube so I'll do that.
 
I am still perfecting my technique on the WE, but so far I don't have any complaints. I am saving up for the 50/80 grit stones for easier re-profiling and the leather strops.
 
Yeah, you need an angle cube and the new arms to get exact angles. You could do it with the old arms if you don't use the pre drilled degree divots.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top