Anybody tried the Randall Training Knife w/ D2 Blade?

Well the 7” Ranger showed up. LOTS of knife for $85 shipped. Great balance & feel. It’s no where close to sharp though. Even has a rough almost “chipped” patch about half way down the edge. I have a feeling I’m going to have to spend a couple of hours on it with the Sharp Maker. I’m wondering about drilling a hole just in front of the grip & above the choil so I can knit myself a hand guard out of paracord. Thoughts anyone?
Thanks!
Hamp
 
The model I got (9") came sharp enough to swing cut paper, but not newsprint. Still, pretty sharp for a chopper.
 
I'm heading to the house in about a minute. I don't know if I'll get to it tonight. First I have to figure out where I put my Sharp Maker!
 
Hamp,
Sorry to hear the dge was not to your liking. If Justin was in-country you could send it back to him for a new edge.

Rather than use the Sharpmaker (should be called the Sharpkeeper) you may want to use much coarser abbrasives to set the initial edge. Probably the easiest and cheapest method is to glue some sandpaper on a sheet of carboard and use it is a very large hone. IF you have a protractor at home, you can get tape it to the wall next to where you are working, set the spine at your desired angle (probably 15-18 degrees per side is what I would use) and it is easy to keep the angle consistent.

Use a thicker cardboard as a backing, one that deforms a bit under light pressure. This will add some convexity to the edge (which adds strength) and will help bleed the edge back into the priamry grind, this is also called breaking down the shoulders of the edge.

You can a pack of AO sandpaper of different grits (usually course, 90 grit, the 150 and 400 grit) for under $3 and you will want to get some finer grits as well to polish the edge.

5160 works very easily, it should only take ~20 minute to reset the edge and polish it to a high polish. The coarse grit paper will take off metal really fast.

When you are done, use the Sharpmaker at the 20 degree setting and add a slight microbevel to the final edge, work it through the corners and flats on both stones, then strop for a bit on leather or cardboard (charged with polishing compound if you have it).

The result should be a vorpal sharp (an old James Mattis phrase) high polished edge, it should easily push shave hair.

If you don't want to use the cardboard and sandpaper, just use a soft arkasas stone or similiar, try to hold the angle pretty constant, and use the sharpmaker to even it all out at the end.

Hope that helps,
KT
 
Justin was nice enough to send me a RD9 with full grind/convex edge the day he was leaving for duty. Usually the RD series come with a saber 50/50 grind. Justin gave me prompt helpful suggestions to help me get the knife to suit my needs. He offered to special order different handle materials a week before he left. I told him to use whatever colour he had in the shop at the time.

My RD9 came shaving sharp along the entire edge straight out of the box. The overall finish on the RD9 is great. Although I am going to beat the crap out of this knife, it was nice to see it coming with that kind of finish out of the box.

The plastic liner in the sheath is a little snug so I will play around with the heat gun to loosen it up. For a "free" sheath, I have no complaints. It is better than most of the sheaths that come with knives in that price range.

When Justin gets back from duty, I am going to pick up more of his knives, made to order.

This is one of the rare times when you can get a quality product with great service at a more than fair price. Usually you need to sacrifice one to get the other two.

Thank you Justin and Jen for a great knife.
 
Yes, I forgot to add that mine came fairly sharp as well.
As I wrote above, Justin's service was top notch and his knives are an incredible value.

When Justin gets back from duty, I am going to pick up more of his knives, made to order.

Yes, so will I.
 
With the help of my edge pro my RD7 is performing great now. Did a lot of batoning and chopping with it. No edge chipping of deformation. I think as it needs to be resharpened I will use a mouse pad and sandpaper to return some of the convex to the edge. I have my eyes on a custom RD6 when jason returns.

Gary
 
I don’t want to leave anyone with the impression that I’m beefed with this knife. I own a Sharp Maker, a Lansky, about three diamond hones & a Wen “Wet Wheel” … when else am I going to get a chance to play with all these? As far as I’m concerned this is pretty much an $85 Steel Heart and deals don’t get a lot better then that! I’m in the middle of trading some other stuff for a Basic9 and have every intention of purchasing an RD6 in the future. I wonder if Justin would consider reprofiling a 6” or 7” version to a slightly lighter knife. KNIFETESTER: Great input on the cardboard/sandpaper method! Thanks! FIREFIVE: I’ve always wondered how to get a decent convex edge on a budget … the mouse-pad trick sounds great! I remember reading about hollow grinding one side & using a slack belt on the other. I know I’d screw that up. I’ve wondered about these cardboard wheels on a buffer motor too. Anybody ever noticed the Delta (brand) sharpener at Lowe’s for about $40? 120 grit wheel in water geared down to about 160rpm … two angle guides front & rear w/ a reversible motor. Looks like a quick approach to hollow grinding.
Thanks!
Hamp
 
Hamp, I've used the cardboard sharpening wheels on a bench motor. I wouldn't recommend it with a convex bevel. It works ok for a standard bevel on a knife. What it is, is basically a cardboard wheel with silicon carbide grit glued on. You hone on that wheel then move to the second wheel that is loaded with jewelers rouge. It comes with a chunk of rouge you apply while it's turning. As far as the Delta grinder you are referring to, it sounds like a sharpening device and not a grinder. To do hollow grinds you need a large 10" contact wheel designed for hollow grinding. This is what I have on my grinder for hollow grinding.

wheel.JPG


Scott
 
Well I solved that “sharp” problem. I don’t know if any of you are familiar with the Wen Wet Wheel … water soaked wheel about 2” in diameter & 3” long with an adjustable rest. Anyway … I used it to put a hollow edge on one side of the RD7 and effectively removing all of the pits on the edge. I then used the Lansky on the other side of the blade down to a 250 grit. I ended up with a touch of a convex because of the slop in the Lansky. She’s sharp now folks! All I have to do is show it to the back of my arm and the hairs fall out! I’m hoping that “convexing” one side with the Lansky will keep the edge strong enough but I’m not sure. If not I’ll try the suggestions you folks gave me about cardboard with some give or the mousepad. Failing all of this I’ll wait until Justin gets back & let him put a straight bevel on it!
Thanks!
Paul
 
BTW … Firefive … you mentioned the Edge Pro. I’ve wondered about that thing for a couple of years now. If I recall correctly they make a couple of versions … the Apex & Pro model? I quit pursuing it because nether one of them were cheap. What’s your opinion of them & do you have any idea where I might find a “deal” on one?
Thanks!
Hamp
 
Hamp the edge pro is a solid system. I only use mine when I need to reprofile a blade. Most of the time I use my Idahone ( ceramic v system ) or a mousepad and sandpaper for convex edges. As far as a good deal I have not seen one. They are definitely not cheap. Your best bet is to watch the for sale forums for a used one.

Gary
 
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