Anyone else make their own resin bonded stones?

Wild Willie said:
It's not the sharp things. It will be me in the kitchen, at 2 am while the kids are sleeping, playing mad scientist clanging every receptical in the house together trying for the perfect concoction.
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thats hilarious. not for the family of course. but from one late night mad scientist to another. id let the epoxy cure somewhere outside though if you start. it can be nasty and im 100 percent its not good to huff lofl. that is if your using slow cure stuff. mas epoxy takes almost a week to cure where things are no longer bendy
 
311climber said:
thats hilarious. not for the family of course. but from one late night mad scientist to another. id let the epoxy cure somewhere outside though if you start. it can be nasty and im 100 percent its not good to huff lofl. that is if your using slow cure stuff. mas epoxy takes almost a week to cure where things are no longer bendy
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That is definitely good to know. It probably won't be soon, but this is going on the list of future projects.
 
311climber said:
Oh man, where to begin?! haha, i could just spew stuff out at this point, lets start with the fact that ive not tried a edgepro/ diemaker matrix stone, nor a venev stone, although i have a few venevs on the way from hapstone. ive heard lots of great feedback about how hard the venev matrix is, and more that diemakers are a softer matrix which is where mine are at sort of. the stones ive come up with i started with a mix of silicon carbide and diamond probably a 40/60 mix. this was the very first attempt at a full "block" of abrasives, and the first time i really saw cool potential

https://flic.kr/p/2njfwas
https://flic.kr/p/2njfG73

but to be honest and its sad by comparison of diemakers, but the first attempt was just some sheared .80 aluminum with a heavy mix of diamond powder and the resin epoxy i use poured directly onto the blank, with a thick enough viscosity that it didnt run over the edge haha.

https://flic.kr/p/2nji8RT

i sat and tried to flatten the matrix of the aluminum stock ones and it was a terror. it really took forever because when you pour the mix down the diamonds, from under around 600 grit plus or minus sink to the bottom causing epoxy to rise to the top like this

https://flic.kr/p/2njfLwW

the 800-1000 grit and above i have used start to mix with the epoxy and stay in suspension in the mix, making it harder to throw in more diamonds in terms of weight into the mix. i didnt make or own a pressure pot but i bet that might work better for getting the diamonds to settle... for example, a 2.5" x 3.5" x .5" 320 grit diamond stone with as much diamond as i could mix before becoming clay like, weighs in at approx 173 grams. mainly diamond weight, where as a block with 800/1000 grit diamonds in the same format yet thicker approx 2.5 x 3.5 x .7 inches only weighs 150.8 grams.


to be continued
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What if you make mold porous from bottom side so excess epoxy can run out of mold ?
 
not a bad idea, though the actual powder although heavy its still super small even at the 170/230 grit ive used. when you mix it up, it stays in suspension fairly long before settling. if you could make some very small holes it would probably remove most of the excess epoxy, while taking some powder with it. not sure how much powder you would lose though. sounds like an idea worth a shot because not having to sand excess epoxy would be nice. one other issue might be for example the 800/1000 grit almost never sinks and stays suspended in the liquid, so in that case you might just see all of your product fully weep from the holes produced till they level off. once you experiment enough im sure its easy to give a weight of powder to a weight of epoxy, with certain grits so you have minimal to remove at the end. tbh if you have any sort of belt style sander the epoxy cuts down in seconds which is wonderful, problems are it puts epoxy mixed with diamond powder into the air and into lungs if not properly using ppe and it can heat the stone till it becomes soft which you need to keep it of course flat as you can before it cures. id like to try your idea on the larger grit size, where ive seen the epoxy pool at the top surface. still havent ordered up any of the 60 grit as with the economy these days its hard to drop over 3 bills on some diamond powder haha.
Natlek said:
What if you make mold porous from bottom side so excess epoxy can run out of mold ?
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311climber said:
not a bad idea, though the actual powder although heavy its still super small even at the 170/230 grit ive used. when you mix it up, it stays in suspension fairly long before settling. if you could make some very small holes it would probably remove most of the excess epoxy, while taking some powder with it. not sure how much powder you would lose though. sounds like an idea worth a shot because not having to sand excess epoxy would be nice. one other issue might be for example the 800/1000 grit almost never sinks and stays suspended in the liquid, so in that case you might just see all of your product fully weep from the holes produced till they level off. once you experiment enough im sure its easy to give a weight of powder to a weight of epoxy, with certain grits so you have minimal to remove at the end. tbh if you have any sort of belt style sander the epoxy cuts down in seconds which is wonderful, problems are it puts epoxy mixed with diamond powder into the air and into lungs if not properly using ppe and it can heat the stone till it becomes soft which you need to keep it of course flat as you can before it cures. id like to try your idea on the larger grit size, where ive seen the epoxy pool at the top surface. still havent ordered up any of the 60 grit as with the economy these days its hard to drop over 3 bills on some diamond powder haha.
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You can use some fine cloth over holes ? Why you don t use pressure ? You need very little epoxy to hold grits together if you mix well compound ? Maybe i should try my self . I have 10 kg fine AO . I forget numbers i need to check that , and several kg coarse and fine Sic ..........
 
Natlek said:
You can use some fine cloth over holes ? Why you don t use pressure ? You need very little epoxy to hold grits together if you mix well compound ? Maybe i should try my self . I have 10 kg fine AO . I forget numbers i need to check that , and several kg coarse and fine Sic ..........
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give it a go. at the very least, you are going to be pleasantly surprised. the AO stones i threw together are honestky decent stones. diamonds are taking forever...uhg
 
Natlek said:
You can use some fine cloth over holes ? Why you don t use pressure ? You need very little epoxy to hold grits together if you mix well compound ? Maybe i should try my self . I have 10 kg fine AO . I forget numbers i need to check that , and several kg coarse and fine Sic ..........
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never even thought of that idea honestly, i would love to see what you could come up with. my only issue with a pure sic stone with epoxy was how fast the sharp facets of the carbide break down. once the face of the stone seems to be super smooth, technically it still removes a tiny bit of metal, but its nothing compared to pure diamond powder. rather than getting smooth and barely cutting it seems to keep cutting like crazy. maybe its just my luck, the coarser sic seemed to really stop cutting fast and needed lapping if u want it to keep cutting like a beast. the finer sic seemed to keep cutting better but still was loading up a tiny bit. diamond just really cut better for me and im not lapping anything until its dished fairly bad. i like to work whole stones fairly evenly though to get your moneys worth. ill definately be trying the cloth mesh idea the next order i make with super coarse grit, thanks for the idea.
 
311climber said:
did you end up ordering some powder?
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Yessir, but I only did 20g each of 150, 400, 1000 grit. In transit 24 days and still isn’t showing in US...ugh

My first order of diamond powder, not a clue how much that is by volume 🤷🏼, or how much stone that will produce @ 100% per the venev page on tsprof.
shop.tsprof.com

Блог

shop.tsprof.com shop.tsprof.com
 
bhb1034 said:
Yessir, but I only did 20g each of 150, 400, 1000 grit. In transit 24 days and still isn’t showing in US...ugh

My first order of diamond powder, not a clue how much that is by volume 🤷🏼, or how much stone that will produce @ 100% per the venev page on tsprof.
shop.tsprof.com

Блог

shop.tsprof.com shop.tsprof.com
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thats awesome, volume is hard to picture, but for example if you go to kingsley norths website and search for diamond powder they sell between 60 grit up to 100k for about 30 bucks for 20 grams or if you buy 3 they are 21 bucks per 20g as a deal. the 20g jar is about 1 inch in diameter and about 1.25 inch or so tall. diamond powder is relatively heavy, so oddly enough if u buy 100k, 20 grams fills the container to the brim. when you buy larger carat size it gains significant weight by volume. the same 20 grams of lets say 800 grit only fills roughly 2/3 of the same container. per tsprof it seems like they call their 100% concentration, roughly 25% diamonds by volume, i think they must use the boron carbide etc to fill the rest of that volume, the finer powder used like 10k for example, was alot harder to keep adding diamond volume to after a certain point, it became almost sand like when you would stir to get the epoxy between all the grains, you constantly would flip and hit small powder patches almost like using too much flour when baking. by keeping the batch a touch wetter it kept me from seeing those patches show up and without the pressure pot, kept from outgassing bubbles showing up through the stone making it sort of porus. its a little harder to say how far your 20 grams will go because when i used the 150 grit you purchased, i made some small containers i filled to the brim that are 1" x 1.625" x .375" so in theory 20 grams will make a stone 3" x1 5/8" x 1/8" thick. but because the finer stuff like 800 will not sink in the epoxy like 150 will, you might get 3 times the volume but of course your concentration will be only 33 pecent of the 150 grit. curious where you picked up your powder and what you had spent, of course like some things if you buy 20g from kingsley north its $30 plus shipping and if you buy 500g from a guy on ebay in india you can get it for $99 with free shipping. feel free to send me a dm if you want i have quite a bit of 800/1000 grit i could send you some weight of to experiment a bit more, if you end up putting it on a blank i would recommend not doing what i did which was just pouring it onto something. it was a bitch to flatten and by the time i had i was losing material around the edges where it was thinner from the pour. a thin silicone mold would work but would probably need to be high quality or a little stiffer mold. they are a ripoff but i think rocklers and woodcraft sell a few knife blank molds that are nice quality.
 
20 grams of diamond powder is about 3/4 to 1 tablespoon, depending on the grit.

If you use too much diamond in your stones then they wear much faster without really cutting any faster. Not enough and not only does the cutting performance drop off but you have to dress them much more often. There is a sweet spot where they cut well but don't wear much. What percentage of abrasive is best depends on a few variables, with the resin being the biggest.
 
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might be possible to rig up a ghetto electrochemical grinding setup with this method. Replace enough abrasive with graphite or other conductive material until stone becomes conductive. but not conductive enough to short circuit on contact. normally brass wheels w/ embedded diamonds are used. it's a very powerful (lol) grinding technology for ultra hard materials, 90% of the action is done by the current, the diamonds mostly just keep up conductivity by removing oxides/increasing surface area.
 
So I’ve been thinking about doing something similar. My idea was to use UV 3D printer resin.
 
Diemaker said:
20 grams of diamond powder is about 3/4 to 1 tablespoon, depending on the grit.

If you use too much diamond in your stones then they wear much faster without really cutting any faster. Not enough and not only does the cutting performance drop off but you have to dress them much more often. There is a sweet spot where they cut well but don't wear much. What percentage of abrasive is best depends on a few variables, with the resin being the biggest.
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thanks, i can see where having too much diamond, esp larger stones, would make it easier for them to be ripped from the matrix. im just doing this to
anteck7 said:
So I’ve been thinking about doing something similar. My idea was to use UV 3D printer resin.
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do it and share the results! Never heard of uv printer resin, how does it compare to 2 part epoxy?
 
outlandish710 said:
might be possible to rig up a ghetto electrochemical grinding setup with this method. Replace enough abrasive with graphite or other conductive material until stone becomes conductive. but not conductive enough to short circuit on contact. normally brass wheels w/ embedded diamonds are used. it's a very powerful (lol) grinding technology for ultra hard materials, 90% of the action is done by the current, the diamonds mostly just keep up conductivity by removing oxides/increasing surface area.
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lol, you’re really trying to get someone in trouble
 
Diemaker said:
20 grams of diamond powder is about 3/4 to 1 tablespoon, depending on the grit.

If you use too much diamond in your stones then they wear much faster without really cutting any faster. Not enough and not only does the cutting performance drop off but you have to dress them much more often. There is a sweet spot where they cut well but don't wear much. What percentage of abrasive is best depends on a few variables, with the resin being the biggest.
Click to expand...
thanks sensei! I was wondering if you had seen this thread full of wannabees 🤣
any thoughts or tips would always be welcome. 😉
 
311climber said:
thats awesome, volume is hard to picture, but for example if you go to kingsley norths website and search for diamond powder they sell between 60 grit up to 100k for about 30 bucks for 20 grams or if you buy 3 they are 21 bucks per 20g as a deal. the 20g jar is about 1 inch in diameter and about 1.25 inch or so tall. diamond powder is relatively heavy, so oddly enough if u buy 100k, 20 grams fills the container to the brim. when you buy larger carat size it gains significant weight by volume. the same 20 grams of lets say 800 grit only fills roughly 2/3 of the same container. per tsprof it seems like they call their 100% concentration, roughly 25% diamonds by volume, i think they must use the boron carbide etc to fill the rest of that volume, the finer powder used like 10k for example, was alot harder to keep adding diamond volume to after a certain point, it became almost sand like when you would stir to get the epoxy between all the grains, you constantly would flip and hit small powder patches almost like using too much flour when baking. by keeping the batch a touch wetter it kept me from seeing those patches show up and without the pressure pot, kept from outgassing bubbles showing up through the stone making it sort of porus. its a little harder to say how far your 20 grams will go because when i used the 150 grit you purchased, i made some small containers i filled to the brim that are 1" x 1.625" x .375" so in theory 20 grams will make a stone 3" x1 5/8" x 1/8" thick. but because the finer stuff like 800 will not sink in the epoxy like 150 will, you might get 3 times the volume but of course your concentration will be only 33 pecent of the 150 grit. curious where you picked up your powder and what you had spent, of course like some things if you buy 20g from kingsley north its $30 plus shipping and if you buy 500g from a guy on ebay in india you can get it for $99 with free shipping. feel free to send me a dm if you want i have quite a bit of 800/1000 grit i could send you some weight of to experiment a bit more, if you end up putting it on a blank i would recommend not doing what i did which was just pouring it onto something. it was a bitch to flatten and by the time i had i was losing material around the edges where it was thinner from the pour. a thin silicone mold would work but would probably need to be high quality or a little stiffer mold. they are a ripoff but i think rocklers and woodcraft sell a few knife blank molds that are nice quality.
Click to expand...
i used 1/4 x 1in aluminum stock i had laying around and walled up the sides and ends with painters tape and notecards, worked perfectly 👍

just checked and my package has landed...somewhere in usa is all it says 🤦‍♂️... i think i bought during last sale on aliexpress and probably used a coupon, but i only payed $16 for 60g..its probably shit quality, hopefully good enough🤞 i will pm ya!
 
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