Anyone have a Spyderco Bushcraft factory second?

Thanks very much for the pics.

There used to be a product on the market called Zap a Gap but it might be too much trouble to purchase a whole bottle for just one or two knives. I might try the Super Glue method but I wish you could dye it black somehow.. anyone have any ideas on adding a dye to SG?
 
I got my Bushcraft in today and it really is so beautiful! There is a crack on one of the sides and the 2nd's notch on the blade and I am quite happy with it for $90! I will wait to hear how others fill their cracks before I attempt it with mine

IMG_2105.jpg

IMG_2106.jpg


IMG_2108.jpg

IMG_2110.jpg

IMG_2111.jpg


IMG_2113.jpg

IMG_2114.jpg

IMG_2115.jpg

IMG_2116.jpg

IMG_2117.jpg
 
Some of the cracks look serious like they might cause problems down the road. Whats everyone's opinions of them and how they'll hold up ?
 
That's a beautiful knife tinwiskers, cracks and all. I have one on order and I sure hope it looks that nice.

Tom
 
The cracks seem way to small for wood filler if you want to improve the structural integrity. I have read some posts in other threads that finding some really runny crazy glue or epoxy applied in multiple applications. Try to fill from the bottom of the crack to the top but make sure to allow each layer/application to dry/cure before applying the next layer/application. Another glue that was abreviated AC was suggested as well. I am not familiar with that product or what it means.
 
To fill the cracks , is that only a
temporary solution , before it cracks again ?

The wood , as far as I know , is not stabilized .


1234,,,,
 
AFAIK these, like almost all Spyderco and other vendors knives were offered at dealers for well under MSRP so who cares what that price was?
 
I believe the wood was stabilized by boiling it in Linseed Oil....don't know if that stabilizes the wood well or not, but that was what was recommended by the company that sold them the wood. My question is this, will CA become brittle if exposed to freezing temperatures?
 
I have on on the way, due here this week.

Check the thread on this over in the Sypderco section of "Manufacturers'
 
Tostig said:
I cannot see for the life of me where that high of a MSRP comes from , O1 and spalted maple are not exactly high dollar , especially considering the vast array of quality bushcraft blades ( production and custom ) one can buy for well under that price.

I am curious as to how those hold up once you guys fix the cracks and whatnot.

Tostig
Click to expand...

The MSRP is not what you end up paying if you buy it from a dealer. Everyone makes a huge fuss over it; I can't figure out why.
 
Josh K said:
The MSRP is not what you end up paying if you buy it from a dealer. Everyone makes a huge fuss over it; I can't figure out why.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it's a great knife ( not trying to stir the hornets nest!) , I'm also curious as to what the average final price would be considering there is such a plethora of fine bushcraft style blades out there well under that particular MSRP that I would have to assume for that price it is one heckofa special knife , that's all :)


Tostig
 
Tostig said:
I'm sure it's a great knife ( not trying to stir the hornets nest!) , I'm also curious as to what the average final price would be considering there is such a plethora of fine bushcraft style blades out there well under that particular MSRP that I would have to assume for that price it is one heckofa special knife , that's all :)


Tostig
Click to expand...

Scandi ground, O1 steel, wood handles, all add to the price.

IIRC the street price was around $180.
 
I have a birthday in a few days, managed to talk one of my sons into gettng one of those Spyderco seconds as a pressie! So I rushed in and ordered it strait away! Another son got me a multi tool and the wife got me a Grandfos mini axe! you beuty! My mom got me a Victorinox. I have a daughter as well, hmmm.
 
I think I'll fill my cracks with sperglue. (sounds like a life changing experience, midlife crisis?). I saw somthing on it someplace else and looks like the way to go.
 
I got mine today, and am currently filling the cracks with Gorilla super glue (what I had on hand). After the first application dries I will add another, and so forth until the crack is at the top. Long ago (in a galaxy far away), I did a bit of wood work, and when I had a crack in something, especially a small crack, I would put super glue and some of the saw dust (the finest stuff) into the crack. I fixed a lot of cracks that way, and never had any open up further.

A note on the condition of mine, I have two cracks one on each side of the handles, one is rather deep and all the way to the steel; the other is not as bad.
 
I got mine today too:
1 crack running from the back of the tang towards the front. It's a hairline that goes to about maybe a mm, just a touch more maybe. I'm going to try and use that 2in1 epoxy that comes in a syringe. I think it's about $6 at WallyWorld.
If it gets worked in with a pin and some soft tapping it might do the trick. It dries to a dark charcoal gray color.
I suppose I could try sanding the handle down a bit with some 400 grit and spraying some polyurethane on it, shold seal out any additional "Arizona" humidity.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top