Anyone have a Spyderco Bushcraft factory second?

[JNewell]

It's your knife and your life but I'd read the BB thread(s). Everyone there says CA glue is the best solution.

I got mine today too:
1 crack running from the back of the tang towards the front. It's a hairline that goes to about maybe a mm, just a touch more maybe. I'm going to try and use that 2in1 epoxy that comes in a syringe. I think it's about $6 at WallyWorld.
If it gets worked in with a pin and some soft tapping it might do the trick. It dries to a dark charcoal gray color.
I suppose I could try sanding the handle down a bit with some 400 grit and spraying some polyurethane on it, shold seal out any additional "Arizona" humidity.

 

[RevDevil]

It's your knife and your life but I'd read the BB thread(s). Everyone there says CA glue is the best solution.

You mean Cyanoacrylate glue, as in super glue? That might just do the trick. I'll give it a shot. I just ordered a second knife to use as a camp knife. Spring is around the corner and there are some nice trails round here worth revisiting. I'll be using this blade for sure.

 

[JNewell]

You mean Cyanoacrylate glue, as in super glue? That might just do the trick. I'll give it a shot. I just ordered a second knife to use as a camp knife. Spring is around the corner and there are some nice trails round here worth revisiting. I'll be using this blade for sure.

Yes. See, for example, this post:

OK I found out the hard way.

Wood filler = NO
Super glue = YES

The cracks disappear with super glue & are accented by the filler even when I matched the color. I took some pics, will post later.

 

[dsmegst]

I'm hoping the wood expands a bit before filling in any of the cracks. Maybe I'll get lucky and the higher humidity in VA helps to close the cracks a bit more.

 

[facablade]

I´m waiting mine and I´ll use 2 component epoxy+black smoke so fills will look like real black lines in splatted wood??

 

[Marion David Poff]

Well,

I don't have one yet...

But, as I often am a trafficker in information, I thought I would share this gem from the Spyderco Forums, with you all who have one, and might be considering fixing yours...

http://spyderco.com/forums/showpost.php?p=561291&postcount=142

".. BSI or Bob Smith industries makes some of the best CA out there. Their CA is triple distilled..."


"After inquiring with BSI as to properly using their products to fix this knife; I received the following today:

"...The initial application of CA should be with our Insta-Cure super-thin.
This will completely penetrate into the wood. Be sure to purchase some extra-fine extender tips or some teflon tubing for applying the thin CA. Without them, it's very easy to get the CA where you don't want it. You could just keep using the thin CA to completely fill the cracks, but you would be adding a lot of time to the process. After that first application, you are not going to get much more deep penetration, so for the second application you can immediately switch to
Insta-Cure+ gap filling or Maxi-Cure extra-thick and the cracks will be
filled. For wood that already has the black lines running through it, the black IC-2000 would be perfect for the second application. Insta-Set accelerator can be sprayed on the surface about one minute after the second application and it would be ready for sanding. The CA should sit for at least an hour before you do final polishing. Contractors who do the installation of granite countertops will mix in granite dust, produced when they cut it, on top of the Insta-Cure or Insta-Cure+ that they have applied to cracks. They even use the CA for bonding the granite pieces together...."



Also, I thought I would mention, that you can get black CA, so it will match the colours in your handle, maybe even look seamless when finished...


I gathered that little factoid from the same thread...

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42309

Enjoy!

Marion

 

[searcher]

There's some advice about this in this thread, regarding Superglue

That's what I think I'll be trying :thumbup:

Spyderco said they tried to solve the problem by soaking the handles in boiled linseed oil. The one I bought is oozing oil from the cracks. How do you get glue to stick to oily wood?

 

[yablanowitz]

Wash it out with acetone thoroughly and allow it to dry before you apply the glue.

 

[WillieD]

If it's alot of oil in the wood, maybe try putting it in a WARM oven for awhile. This will thin the oil and release it from the wood. Let it sit a few days in the house them and even out the moisture content. When mine showed up, the wood was very dry and had a few smallish cracks in the wood. I let it sit before I did anything, like some other suggested, and a few cracks closed up a bit and some can't be found now. I just did the CA to the remaining cracks the other night and last night sanded it down a bit and wiped it down with Ballistol. I'll see how that holds for now and maybe hit it with some tung oil later to give it more of a sheen and better water resistance than BLO.

 

[JediKnight86]

Oiled my handle with Japanese camellia oil, not sure if it's helping. Guess I'll wipe the oil off and try glue. Do I really need to let this thing dry out again first? Wish I had a syringe...

 

[beammeupscotty]

People forking out close to $100.00 (after shipping) for a factory second Scandi style knife made of O1 ... O1 DRILL ROD, a carbon steel alloy that has probably been around for 50 years... maybe more. For the same price you could buy a REALLY NICE Karesuando, EKA, Helle or any number of other REAL Scandinavian knives with excellent sheaths and without any blemishes of any kind. Or, you could save some money and buy THREE really nice Scandi blades, fit your own handles and make your own sheaths for the same damn price as one, Spyderco O-1 blemished knife.

Sometimes, I must admit, my fellow man baffles me.....

At the risk of tooting my own horn...

Helle Harding blade $21.50
Osage Orange handle free
3 " of brass $0.50
strip of Paduk $0.25

Total cost: $22.25 and I can get enough leather for a sheath for about a buck

And I don't really even know what I am doing when it comes to fitting handles, but I DO know that I end up with a knife that will outperform an O1 tool steel knife, and mine cost a bit more than a quarter of the price of the blem, 12% of the price of an umblemished one...

and it won't rust.

Why would anyone want to buy a Scandi knife from anyone other than a Scandinavian manufacturer?

Incomprehensible.

 

[beammeupscotty]

Oiled my handle with Japanese camellia oil, not sure if it's helping. Guess I'll wipe the oil off and try glue. Do I really need to let this thing dry out again first? Wish I had a syringe...

is intended for use in wiping down japanese carbon steel kitchen knives to keep them from rusting. It is totally inappropriate for filling in cracks on spalted wood. You need something that will harden and camillia will not do that, ever.

 

[J_Curd]

I would be more concerned about the heat treat. One fellow had a complete tang failure while batoning and most bushcraft knives can withstand said activity without issue. Last I saw the jury is still out. Sal wants to test the failed blade.

 

[Josh K]

I would be more concerned about the heat treat. One fellow had a complete tang failure while batoning and most bushcraft knives can withstand said activity without issue. Last I saw the jury is still out. Sal wants to test the failed blade.

One knife. You're going to say there's a heat treat issue because of one knife.

Let's see how many other users have batoned the knife and had a complete failure.

 

[JediKnight86]

People forking out close to $100.00 (after shipping) for a factory second Scandi style knife made of O1 ... O1 DRILL ROD, a carbon steel alloy that has probably been around for 50 years... maybe more. For the same price you could buy a REALLY NICE Karesuando, EKA, Helle or any number of other REAL Scandinavian knives with excellent sheaths and without any blemishes of any kind. Or, you could save some money and buy THREE really nice Scandi blades, fit your own handles and make your own sheaths for the same damn price as one, Spyderco O-1 blemished knife.

Sometimes, I must admit, my fellow man baffles me.....

O-1 seems to be the preferred Bushcraft steel regardless. I agree with you partially. I got it because I love Spyderco and it's their first Bushcraft knife. I'm going to order one of those Helle type knives anyway. I saw them on Ragweedforge.

 

[CanisMajor]

Oiled my handle with Japanese camellia oil, not sure if it's helping. Guess I'll wipe the oil off and try glue. Do I really need to let this thing dry out again first? Wish I had a syringe...

You should leave it out for a few days before gluing it. There have been reports of some cracks closing themselves due to the humidity in the area. I say leave the blade out of the sheath for a couple of days and see what happens. I left mine out for 5 days before doing anything, cracks didn't really close so I glued it.

Canis

 

[JediKnight86]

You should leave it out for a few days before gluing it. There have been reports of some cracks closing themselves due to the humidity in the area. I say leave the blade out of the sheath for a couple of days and see what happens. I left mine out for 5 days before doing anything, cracks didn't really close so I glued it.

Canis

Humidity is pretty low right now in N California, doubt it will do anything.

 

[T Schloz]

You should leave it out for a few days before gluing it. There have been reports of some cracks closing themselves due to the humidity in the area. I say leave the blade out of the sheath for a couple of days and see what happens. I left mine out for 5 days before doing anything, cracks didn't really close so I glued it.

Canis

I'm in Central Illinois and the Spyderco Bushcraft I received had a large crack in one scale. After 2 1/2 weeks it is still in the process of closing.

Tom

 

[J_Curd]

One knife. You're going to say there's a heat treat issue because of one knife.

Let's see how many other users have batoned the knife and had a complete failure.

No I said I would be concerned about the potential for failure that is still being investigated, under conditions that are typical use for the genre as marketed. Pretty sure my first post covered that.

 

[JNewell]

I don't think the HT was likely the issue - I'm not sure the tang should have been "skeletonized" as it was. Having said that, (1) it seems quite possible that there was a lot of lateral pressure on the blade when it failed and (2) all any of us can do at this point is guess. Sal has the knife and they'll do what they can to figure out what's up. Given their track record, I think we'll get the straight scoop from them when they're done.

I would be more concerned about the heat treat. One fellow had a complete tang failure while batoning and most bushcraft knives can withstand said activity without issue. Last I saw the jury is still out. Sal wants to test the failed blade.