AR-15 builders and Owners, little help please

I am a smith so pm me if you need advice. Midway USA and Brownells were my two main part suppliers. Sometimes I just go to the gunshow to see what parts I can scrounge cheep. If I was building something for a customer the first thing I do is get a exploded diagram and a parts list. I have a book from Jack First but I am sure you can google it. Even if it's a weapon you are familiar with it is always smart to be working with a list of all the tiny parts and pins.
 
Last edited:
Pick up the billet lower of your choice and a lower parts kit, mil buffer and tube, magpul or viltor stock and a complete bcm upper bingo your done with a great rifle. Usually quite a bit cheaper, last one I built for around 650. over 6000 rounds with minimal cleaning and no failures at all. Ok actually no cleaning just squirted some lube on it a few times.

price will vary from what I built depending on the upper of your choice. most lowers make no difference at all, you might want a fancy trigger. All that depends on exactly what you want. A gun that goes bang every time and has acceptable accuracy. You can spend more on optics than the gun itself easily.
Hmm. Very good to know. Thanks for the input. If I could build a decent gun for under a grand, I'll be happy.

I have built sever AR's. I always end up going with Spikes parts. They have a very realistic price, top notch products, great customer service and my biased reason: they are Floridians. You would be ok with any of the other brands mentioned (BCM, DD, LMT, etc.) A relatively new comer in the AR game who seems to be building quite a reputation for reliability and offers great prices is Palmetto State Armory, just another one to look at. What you should really be researching is what platform to build off of, I recommend a mid-length gas system with a light-weight configuration. If you plan on carrying the rifle around for long periods of time you will want to eliminate weight where ever you can. An 11 pound AR gets old real fast.
I've always wanted a Spike's rifle. So I'll have to check them out. I honestly don't know what gas length I'd want. What's standard? I'm pretty sure there are laws here in jersey the would prevent me from getting anything considered an SBR. But yeah, that's a consideration. Thanks.

Hey Adam. I was/am in the same situation as you (kinda). I built (with the help of a knowledgeable friend) a lower a couple of years ago. I went with Doublestar Corp. as they are out of Winchester KY which is 20 min from my house. I used their lower, parts kit, 6 position buttstock, ect. I had a Doublestar rifle at the time so I was in no hurry to finish it.

Here I am two years later after trading off both my AR's, wanting to finish it. After researching, I am going with PSA (Palmetto State Armory). I have only read great things about them, and their price is great for the quality it sounds to be. Plus I am going for the dissipator upper with mid length gas, which somewhat limited my options for companies.

I need to figure out exactly what rear iron sight I want and what charging handle I need. I shoot a rifle lefty so a ambi charging handle would be optimum. Any suggestions?
Another vote for PSA. Ok. I'm not to sure about an ambi charging handle. Did you ever consider a stag upper? They make dedicated lefty parts. Or maybe they can help you with a lefty handle.
 
I am a smith so pm me if you need advice. Midway USA and Brownells were my two main part suppliers. Sometimes I just go to the gunshow to see what parts I can scrounge cheep. If I was building something for a customer the first thing I do is get a exploded diagram and a parts list. I have a book from Jack First but I am sure you can google it. Even if it's a weapon you are familiar with it is always smart to be working with a list of all the tiny parts and pins.
Excellent. Thank you. I will pm you.
 
I had a left handed Stag AR but I didn't like it at all. The trigger wasn't as crisp as my doublestar, the bolt seemed gritty, it didnt function flawlessly, and it just didn't feel as good shootin' as others I've had/shot. The charging handle on it was pretty crappy IMO. I wouldn't really recommend a Stag to anyone but I know some people love 'em.
 
Hmm. Very good to know. Thanks for the input. If I could build a decent gun for under a grand, I'll be happy.


I've always wanted a Spike's rifle. So I'll have to check them out. I honestly don't know what gas length I'd want. What's standard? I'm pretty sure there are laws here in jersey the would prevent me from getting anything considered an SBR. But yeah, that's a consideration. Thanks.


Another vote for PSA. Ok. I'm not to sure about an ambi charging handle. Did you ever consider a stag upper? They make dedicated lefty parts. Or maybe they can help you with a lefty handle.

You picked one hell of a time to build an AR. LMT is 24 weeks backordered, Spikes is 4-6 months, and all of Daniel Defense's rifles are "spoken for" for the rest of 2012 unless people back out of their orders or they increase production.

As for what AR, this is the set up I ordered a few days ago:

Upper: http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/upper-556-16-mid-le-w132-sar-rail-p-688.html

Lower: http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z...anced-kit-black-ctr-stock-moe-grip-p-594.html


I like a midlength gas system, but that's just me. Also a fan of low profil gas blocks, extended tubes, folding sights with optics, etc. The first AR I ever shot was a friend's Colt SP1. And I was not a fan and it kind of turned me off to ARs, then I started fiddling with collapsible stocks and more "modern" features than what was on his 40 year old rifle.

Also, what type of barrel profil do you prefer? M4? Government? Pencil? Heavy?.....

Some people are pretty picky about ARs, down to how the castle nuts are staked or how the gas key is staked. Personally too, I'm not a fan of the old delta ring system and prefer free float tubes.

As for billet lowers, Spikes' Biohazard lower is pretty cool, but the Seekins Precision lower is pretty nice too.

So...what exactly are you looking for and what do you want purpose will the rifle be used for?
 
Last edited:
Also, if I took an off the shelf rifle and built an identical one from scratch (assuming all parts were available separately) how would the price compare between my build and my store bought rifle? Assuming no outside labor involved... just cost of parts.

There's an 11% federal excise tax on rifles, but not on rifle parts. And since the firearm is the lower receiver, if you build your own, that's the only part subject to the tax (unless you build 50 or more in a year). In theory, you shouldbe able to save money by building it yourself. I know i saved about a hundred bucks once by buying an AR10 lower and an AR10(T) upper seperately and snapping them together. But on my AR15 builds, I'm not sure I saved much of anything, although I did get the configuration I wanted. The prices on complete rifles seem to have come down lately, but I haven't seen a decrease in the price of parts.


I was looking on AIM's site, comapring the price of a Spike's Tactical midlength AR15 ($769.95 with a p-mag and Magpul MBUS rear sight and plastic case) with the price of the Spike's Tactical components, and I don't think you save much of anything assembling the rifle from parts that you would to just buy the complete rifle. ($500 for the upper, $80 for the lower, $65 for Spike's lower parts kit, $50 for the MBUS and P-mag, $60 for Spike's mil-spec buffer tube kit, plus whatever it costs for the stock of your choice.)
 
Last edited:
Bravo Company uppers are great and their bolt carrier groups are great if you build your upper. Love my Mega Arms lowers and uppers.
 
Dude. Just get a Rock River flattop and drop in a Geissele trigger. Done. Billet is a waste of money and adds zero except cost. Spend money on optics or a suppressor or extra mags. I shot RR in 5.56 and then 6.8 until I could drop the coin on a Noveske 6.8 SPCII and full PVS-14 night vision setup and a titanium suppressor. I always buy from Rainier Arms. Also look on the forums. Lots of deals.
 
Sorry bud, didn't mean to detract from your question. Hope you find what you're after.
 
I had a left handed Stag AR but I didn't like it at all. The trigger wasn't as crisp as my doublestar, the bolt seemed gritty, it didnt function flawlessly, and it just didn't feel as good shootin' as others I've had/shot. The charging handle on it was pretty crappy IMO. I wouldn't really recommend a Stag to anyone but I know some people love 'em.

To each his own, I guess. I love my 2T. I've put 1000s of rounds through it, including crappy steel cased stuff and I cant recall ever having feed or eject issues.

I was going to get the Spikes Tactical 16" Elite CHF 5.56/.223 Upper Receiver for my next build, but I dithered and AIM sold out again.

What is AIM?

You picked one hell of a time to build an AR. LMT is 24 weeks backordered, Spikes is 4-6 months, and all of Daniel Defense's rifles are "spoken for" for the rest of 2012 unless people back out of their orders or they increase production.

As for what AR, this is the set up I ordered a few days ago:

Upper: http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/upper-556-16-mid-le-w132-sar-rail-p-688.html

Lower: http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z...anced-kit-black-ctr-stock-moe-grip-p-594.html


I like a midlength gas system, but that's just me. Also a fan of low profil gas blocks, extended tubes, folding sights with optics, etc. The first AR I ever shot was a friend's Colt SP1. And I was not a fan and it kind of turned me off to ARs, then I started fiddling with collapsible stocks and more "modern" features than what was on his 40 year old rifle.

Also, what type of barrel profil do you prefer? M4? Government? Pencil? Heavy?.....

Some people are pretty picky about ARs, down to how the castle nuts are staked or how the gas key is staked. Personally too, I'm not a fan of the old delta ring system and prefer free float tubes.

As for billet lowers, Spikes' Biohazard lower is pretty cool, but the Seekins Precision lower is pretty nice too.

So...what exactly are you looking for and what do you want purpose will the rifle be used for?

Just target use for now. Maybe a SHTF rifle later. I live in Jersey, so my uses are pretty limited. I mean really... what does anyone need an AR-15 for? When you say extended tubes, would that be a rifle length rail system, with a middy gas system and lo-pro gas block? I kinda like that look too, with a folding sight on the upper rail. I'd be getting an M4 barrel. I don't really like the look of anything else. And the rails would definitely be free floated.

Bravo Company uppers are great and their bolt carrier groups are great if you build your upper. Love my Mega Arms lowers and uppers.

I think my upper and BCG is going to be BCM.
 
Just target use for now. Maybe a SHTF rifle later. I live in Jersey, so my uses are pretty limited. I mean really... what does anyone need an AR-15 for? When you say extended tubes, would that be a rifle length rail system, with a middy gas system and lo-pro gas block? I kinda like that look too, with a folding sight on the upper rail. I'd be getting an M4 barrel. I don't really like the look of anything else. And the rails would definitely be free floated.

Sorry you live in Jersey, and yeah, what do you need one of those evil black rifles for anyway? :rolleyes: ;)

For the tubes, yeah, low profile gas block and the tube extends past it, you can get a carbine length system or a midlength then get a rifle length tube, but midlength is my personal preference. I've never been a huge fan of the old front sight gas blocks, but with certain exceptions like MOE edition rifles and some of DD's rifles look okay with it.

If you're going target with a possibility of SHTF, might go for a 18" or 20" for the little extra velocity and longer range shooting. Since you like M4 barrels your options are pretty wide since that is the classic look (the funky cutout for the grenade launcher always gets me, I wish I had one :D ).

With the added weight of the longer barrel, an aluminum free float tube with rails at the last 4 inches of the tube wouldn't be bad unless you plan on mounting a forward grip on it. Full length tac rails get pretty damn heavy.
 
Piston or gas? That's a big deal that needs addressed. Badger ordnance makes some great
Parts that are bought by the military. BCM, LMT, LWRC, Spikes all make great parts.
 
That's will save some weight. Check out the LMT monolithic upper.
You can change barrel length and caliber really easily and they are accurate free floating barrels that are very nice.
The Brits chose the .308 version for there military snipers over the SCAR and many other rifles.
 
I've built 2 uppers...you definitely won't save any money, but you get it exactly like you want it. I used VLTOR uppers on both, BCM 16" midlength barrels (1 in 8" Stainless and 1 in 7" CHF), VLTOR gas blocks pinned using a mill, Battle comp 1.0 on both, 11' Centurion arms rails on both, BCM bolt and LMT bolt. I have them both on S&W lowers that have G&R lower parts kits. Softest shooting uppers I've ever shot, but pretty heavy especially since I run 1-4x scopes on both most of the time. Good luck building. I had a lot off fun building these. I will say that I shoot my Noveske carbine more than any of these two, but mainly because of weight.

w/ stainless barrel other one looks exactly the same except CHF barrel.

 
Last edited:
1. Get a stripped lower - whatever flavor you choose. I have Eagle/Armalite, Bushmaster, Stag, Rock River. There's others, and I think this is of less importance than some other parts.
2. Get a lower parts kit - again, many quality parts out there. The only thing I'd consider changing is the trigger. The spikes battle trigger I think is an improvement over a stock AR trigger from a parts kit, though you can get decent triggers in kits.
3. Decide and get which buttstock you want - A2? Collapsible? Something fancier yet? Lotsa choices here.

You have your complete lower. Now to the upper.

Are you wanting to buy a complete upper and bolt it on???? That's easiest, and if so, I'd just get a kit that has the LPK and buttstock you want, along with the upper you want. (and skip #2 and 3 above)

If you want to build the upper too...........

4. Gotta buy an upper - you said flat top I believe
5. Decide on a length of barrel and what barrel profile you want. You asked about chrome lined - increases durability but decreases accuracy, or at least that's what I have found in my research. I personally choose non-chome lined barrels. I don't shoot enough I'll ever shoot a barrel out! Don't forget a bolt carrier group and charging handle
6. Handguard?? Rail?? More decisions, which make the AR so customizable. Don't forget the gas tube/block/pin
7. Sights?? Even with optics, I would think you want BUIS

By far the easiest is stripped lower, and a complete kit. Probably cheapest too. But then you might not have exactly what you want. But easy to change parts. I took a GG&G Dominator upper, and traded out the railed forearm for a free float railed forearm, and sold the original. So, you can change whatever you want along the way too.

Some places I've bought parts for AR builds that I didn't see mentioned in the thread

http://jtdistributing.net/store/index.html
http://www.adcofirearms.com/
http://www.midwayusa.com
 
Back
Top