Asymmetric Edge Resource Thread

Hey all, I thought I’d keep this thread moving along since I received my 9er yesterday, and getting good information here. I bought it off of a very nice gentlemen here on the form. I felt like it was the senior prom hoping to get some. I ran out back to do some batoning and chopping. Choking back on the handle works really nice, it didn’t feel like it was going to slip out of my hand. When working with longer pieces of wood, I put it up-right when I can, a few good chops and a kick, it’s done, yeah I like this. I’ve been using a 8” or so machete I picked up in SA years ago, duct tape makes for a quickie choil. Used no gloves because I wanted to see if I got any hot spots, not a one. I also wanted to try a res-c handle being in the northeast it’s colder/cooler more often than warm. Batoning was real easy, she went through seasoned maple, oak and some cherry. The 9” blade is a nice size, lots of room/length for this kind of job. I do a lot of wondering around in the woods, for the size and weight I think I found a winner.
But here’s the kicker. It arrived with a good working edge, I didn’t touch it up until today after batoning , chopping yesterday and this morning, total time about an hour. I think I worked the blade for about a minute literally. I don’t have a ceramic rod for field use yet, used 1500 wet/dry sand paper, didn’t bother with the convex side because of what I read here. Shaving hair now, not hair popping, but for the time I have into it, hands down I like this a lot. Cut newspaper very clean, thin curls.
Thanks to all for the prior information on the asymmetrical edge. Now for that elusive basic 7 ……..
 
That is really mint ... great score there :thumbup: The more you use the Basic 9 ... the more you realise how good it is ....
 
My guess is that the mods would want to minimize the number of stickies taking up screen space.

You can always subscribe to the thread, so it is easy to find. And I tend to bump it back up when the subject comes up.
 
Will York said:
The convex bevel is on the right side of the blade with the blade pointed away from you, edge down. The convex bevel is the wide one.
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...guys, on my SHe the right (wider) bewel is definitely looks more flat, than the left(narrow) one. Ther narrow looks-and feels quite "convexy" ...?!
 
ikkyo, I'm by no means an expert on a asym edge, but I can comment on what I have .... When the edge facing down, handle towards you, the thin edge "left side" shouldn't be any kind of convex. Reading here, in other threads, and the one I received the thin edge should be about 9 - 11 degrees. It's even stated "almost flat", again it's what I've read here, I'm just following instructions. So far for me it's the only side I have touched up since using it, and I mean a very short time period.
 
Our Viking Hog brother ragnerok just scored a mint Basic 7, and took some pics of the sharpening instructions, as are also posted above.



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Since there is a discussion going about sharpening a Basic 3, it was time to bring this back up.

I lifted a post from Andre;

papathud said:
Ok, here is the Basic, easy answer.

You start with the burr removed, you drag up a consistent small burr and strop that, use the burr, use the knife and when it dulls, crock stick the burr back into place.

In relatively soft (clean) materials Rope, wood, that sort of thing, you will be amazed at how long it stays sharp and how easy it is to bring back to hair popping!

Cleaning deer/elk /rabbit stays sharp, skinning pigs, cutting cardboard not so very long, but a few strokes with a crock stick to get it back into shape.

I had this discussion with Jerry back in 1999,He told me to keep the burr, to use the burr, that on the Asym grind it will consistently fall to the short side and easy to crock stick back to shaving and it has worked well for me for the last 15 years, a Basic number 3 has been in use that entire time, I even have used it as a cold chisel to cut the metal fuel line on my 94 Dodge Diesel pick up.
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Well now I know what I have been doing wrong with my BAe , will a ceramic stone do the job of a ceramic stick?
 
Bought a ceramic stick, it deffinatly does a better job on the asymmetric edge then the ceramic stone, ever since I started using ceramic stick/ strop my asymmetric edges are my sharpest knives and easiest to sharpen as well
 
Does anyone know if Busse will convert a standard edge B11 to asymmetric edge and would there be a downside to this mod?
 
scrapper said:
Does anyone know if Busse will convert a standard edge B11 to asymmetric edge and would there be a downside to this mod?
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Now Scrapper that's an interesting question. I know I could get it done thru bribery trickery or blackmail; but is it a standard option? Garth?
 
scrapper said:
Does anyone know if Busse will convert a standard edge B11 to asymmetric edge and would there be a downside to this mod?
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I`m so fortunate to actually have a factory Basic-11 With Assym. grind. They did 30 of those for a show, i was told (take a look at older treads in the Basic-8 Le tread. It was said that Jerry himself did grind those 30 B11- some are calling them "drunken janitor editions.
 
scrapper said:
Does anyone know if Busse will convert a standard edge B11 to asymmetric edge and would there be a downside to this mod?
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Yes they will do so, have one at the custom shop right now. Possibly downsides? Maybe not as strong as a V-grind, but i think thats only in theory. Very easy to get hair poppin sharp.
 
ragnerok said:
I`m so fortunate to actually have a factory Basic-11 With Assym. grind. They did 30 of those for a show, i was told (take a look at older treads in the Basic-8 Le tread. It was said that Jerry himself did grind those 30 B11- some are calling them "drunken janitor editions.
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I was very fortunate as well, when we learned that Assym B11s would be at Blade that year, my proxy was able to come through for me.

But the edge got messed up when I stripped the blade and used a Scotchbright wheel for a ghetto satin. Have to send it back for a factory tune-up.
 
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